# canpara's Semi-Hero GB1 Proton Pack Build (Pic Heavy) **URL:** \ **Category:** Proton Packs\ **Created:** [September 20, 2016, 5:07am UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969 "2016-09-20T05:07:16Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 2
**Author:** ![Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/v/6bbea6/32.png) [@Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/Venkmans_Swagger)\ **Post date:** [October 11, 2016, 10:11am UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/21 "2016-10-11T10:11:59Z")
Nice clean work dude. Loving it!! ---
**Author:** ![canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/canpara/32/4041_2.png) [@canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/canpara)\ **Post date:** [October 11, 2016, 4:22pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/22 "2016-10-11T16:22:02Z")
> [@Venkman's Swagger](#): > > Nice clean work dude. Loving it!! Thanks! I really appreciate the enthusiasm. It’s a huge confidence boost! ---
**Author:** ![Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/v/6bbea6/32.png) [@Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/Venkmans_Swagger)\ **Post date:** [October 11, 2016, 4:41pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/23 "2016-10-11T16:41:15Z")
> [@canpara](#): > > > [@Venkman's Swagger](#): > > > > Nice clean work dude. Loving it!! > > Thanks! I really appreciate the enthusiasm. It’s a huge confidence boost! You’re welcome fella. Just saying what I see. Keep it up 🙂 ---
**Author:** ![ocp\_model-001](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/ocp_model-001/32/188358_2.png) [@ocp\_model-001](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/ocp_model-001)\ **Post date:** [October 11, 2016, 9:55pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/24 "2016-10-11T21:55:27Z")
Nice work lad, great looking shop you have too. Some nice space, and all proper planned assembly. Should turn out great 😉 ---
**Author:** ![canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/canpara/32/4041_2.png) [@canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/canpara)\ **Post date:** [October 12, 2016, 5:52am UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/25 "2016-10-12T05:52:23Z")
> [@OCP\_Model-001](#): > > Nice work lad, great looking shop you have too. Some nice space, and all proper planned assembly. Should turn out great 😉 Thanks! Your remark about my work space made me chuckle, since my build is actually quite mobile and all over the place! The photos in my last progress update are taken in my parents’ garage in Red Deer, Alberta, which is about a one hour and a half drive from my place in Edmonton. I have been trying to take advantage of their garage as much as I can, since I live in a pretty small bachelor pad, haha. I have also been taking advantage of a friend’s garage in Edmonton as well. It’s a good thing that I have a hatchback with room to lug around my big cardboard box with all of my pack parts, in addition to all of my tools and whatnot. I made lots of progress today in Red Deer, but now I am back in Edmonton. I have to work tomorrow and it’s pretty late, so I will have to share all of the new build photos tomorrow. Here’s a teaser: - I organized all of my bolts and pneumatic fittings. I fitted the metal [vacuum line](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-vacuum-line) tube into the shell. I drilled the pilot holes for the [injector tubes](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-injectors), the [beam line](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-beam-line) and the [filler plug](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/uncategorized/filler-plug) using a drill press. I completed the HGA (including the four socket head screws, the SMC elbow, the [Clippard brass elbow](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/clippard-brass-elbow) and the shell mounting with one long socket head screw). I installed the shock mount (the [bumper](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/bumper)) to the shell. I added the Clippard brass elbow to the [aluminum ion arm](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-ion-arm) end cap. I mounted the PPD with self-drilling screws. I think that’s about it. Stay tuned! ---
**Author:** ![Nicholszz](https://forum.gbfans.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/n/e68b1a/32.png) [@Nicholszz](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/Nicholszz)\ **Post date:** [October 12, 2016, 10:04pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/26 "2016-10-12T22:04:03Z")
MMMM. This is looking amazing. Think ima have to invest in all this Spongeface stuffs. ---
**Author:** ![canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/canpara/32/4041_2.png) [@canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/canpara)\ **Post date:** [October 12, 2016, 10:30pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/27 "2016-10-12T22:30:20Z")
> [@Nicholszz](#): > > MMMM. This is looking amazing. > > Think ima have to invest in all this Spongeface stuffs. I would highly recommend it… Not only are his products top notch, but his service is second to none. Doug answers all of my e-mails very promptly. ---
**Author:** ![canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/canpara/32/4041_2.png) [@canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/canpara)\ **Post date:** [October 14, 2016, 2:49am UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/28 "2016-10-14T02:49:05Z")
**Lesson Learned: Properly Labelling and Organizing Bolts and Screws** In my last update, I explained how I mounted the Dale RH-25 and RH-50 resistors to the [Ion Arm](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-ion-arm). Well, I ended up grabbing a four screws that were lying around the garage and that happened to be about the right size. Although it isn’t a big deal, I regret doing that, since I realized later that I had already purchased the proper screws: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/1/f/1facb22a0757713e2de656c61f25951594632388.jpeg) For some reason, I thought that I might not have the appropriate screws for the resistors. However, as I looked over my list of bolts and screws in the first post of this thread, I realized that I did indeed have four M3 10 mm black ridged cap-style socket head screws for the resistors. In order to prevent this from happening again, I grabbed a ton of little transparent plastic bags and I labeled all the types of bolts, screws and pneumatic fittings that I had with masking tape. The labels include the measurements of the bolts and screws as well as what they’re used for (for example: M3 10 mm ridged cap-style socket head screws / Ion Arm Resistors). I separated them in a cheap organizer that I bought at Home Depot for about $9: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/4/d/4dd30e97830bc4dd0c4ca371ffbe831a51b20974.jpeg) Hopefully this will prevent me from making the same mistake again in the future! **Grinding the [Vacuum Line](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-vacuum-line) Tube** The aluminum tube for the vacuum line is supposed to plug right into the Benofkent Props shell, but after trying it out, I found that it was difficult to press the tube into the corresponding hole. I think this was done so intentionally. Using an angle grinder, I rounded the edges of one end of the tube so that it could be inserted into the hole in a snug manner. ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/4/7/4779f6488faeeb55064bd81f909285330552e5d6.jpeg) **[Hydrogen Gas Actuator (HGA)](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/HGA)** Until this point, I hadn’t touched the HGA. Although I have seen a number of build threads where people are mounting the HGA using a bolt from the interior of the shell, this method seems to be more common with those who have an [aluminum HGA](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-hga). In the Benofkent Props kit, the HGA is made of resin and it’s hollow. Only one end of the cylinder is walled, and this wall is much thicker than the one on the aluminum variants (as I would come to realize later on). After consulting with Ben of Benofkent Props through Facebook Messenger, he told me that he mounts the HGA to the shell using an M5 countersunk socket head cap screw that goes from the outside of the HGA, through the pack shell, then secured on the inside of the shell with a myloc and a washer. Since I had just reorganized all of my bolts and screws, I knew that I already had the correct M5 80 mm socket head cap screw on hand. Initially, I was worried that this was not the screen-accurate way of mounting the HGA. However, after looking at Stefan’s plans, I realized that the GB1 [Proton Pack](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack) has a socket head cap screw mounted in the same way as Ben’s builds. Stefan’s plans have the following note: “The HGA is mounted with 0.25” Socket Head Cap Screw to the [Crank Generator](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/crank-generator). The head of this crew touches the back side of the HGA-Label.” From then on, I knew what to do… More templates! After carefully measuring the shell and comparing the measurements to the Stefan’s plans, I found that they were nearly identical. I then started building two templates: one to mark the location of the mounting screw on the pack shell, as well as another to mark the location of the mounting screw on the HGA. ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/3/6/36344235893830b8af5d77b0d4504bf78c65de83.jpeg) The second template would mark the location of the mounting bolt as well as the four M5 socket head cap screws that came with the kit (M6 10 mm). Although I normally write down the length of my reference lines on my templates, I didn’t do that on this template for some reason. The diameter of the face of the HGA cylinder is 60 mm (2.375”), while the diameter of the label is 35 mm (1.375”). ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/6/c/6c59363010e18702de8da3cfba71ef4ad648f580.jpeg) Using this second template, I also measured the side of the HGA cylinder using my digital caliper. It measured about 63 mm in height and 63 mm in length. Then I made marks on the cylinder in order to trace a transversal centre line. Using Stefan’s plan, I found the locations of the [Legris](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/legris) elbow (in this case, an SMC elbow) and the [Clippard brass elbow](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/clippard-brass-elbow): ![image]([http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/canpara/WP\_20161011\_14\_08\_15\_Rich](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/canpara/WP_20161011_14_08_15_Rich) 2\_zpshtu4o21w.jpg) I noticed that the hole for the Clippard brass elbow is very close to the extremity of the cylinder. Half of the hole there would go through the thick resin wall of the cylinder’s face, while the other half would go through the hollow part of the cylinder. I didn’t think much of it at the time. However, when it came time to drill that particular hole, I decided to displace the Clippard brass elbow to the left so that the hole would narrowly miss the wall. The holes I drilled were the same as the other Legris and Clippard elbow holes: 5/16” hole with a 1/8-16 NC tap. Take a look in the photo below (with everything mounted in place): ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/b/6/b63436c3a0ad13ff533d604ee5d332af8b0c87aa.jpeg) I had the luxury of using a drill press to drill all of the holes on the HGA. For the centre mounting bolt (M5 80 mm), I used a 13/64” drill bit to drill the hole. In order to drill out a space for the countersunk cap screw, I enlarged the circumference of the hole with a 3/8” drill bit. The depth of the countersink was 5 mm. In the end, the head of the screw sat quite flush with the face of the HGA cylinder: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/4/e/4e07d14e086d7cd056dd3f7f2c326ce707a505f6.jpeg) For the four M6 socket head cap screws (M6 10 mm), I drilled the holes using a 13/64” drill bit and I tapped them with an M6 x 1 bit. **Drilling the Pilot Holes for the [Injector Tubes](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-injectors), the [Filler Plug](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/uncategorized/filler-plug) and the [Beam Line](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-beam-line)** Although I had already drilled the holes for the injector tubes, the filler plug and the beam line in the shell, I waited to drill the holes through the resin parts. I marked the hole locations using the same templates that I had used on the shell. The holes need to be deep enough for the M5.5 75 mm (#14 x 3”) self-drilling roof screws, so I waited until I had access to a drill press rather than attempting to drill the holes with my drill. Unfortunately, my dad’s small drill press wasn’t high enough to accommodate the length of the drill bit and the height of the resin parts. However, his friend has a drill press that is much taller (and fancier). It was really a pleasure to work with. Here is a picture of when we drilled holes in the injector tubes: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/8/3/83438186ac2489f6627ae3615d61c0c78378367b.jpeg) I then proceeded to drill the same holes in the filler plug and the beam line. I was going to drill the holes on the flipside (the top side) of the parts (specifically the holes for the [nycoil](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/nycoil) tubing on the injector tubes and the hole for the Clippard brass elbow on the beam line), but I realized that I wasn’t exactly sure how I was going to attach the nycoil tubes. More research is necessary, so I decided to wait. **Installing the Shock Mount** Although attaching the shock mount (the [bumper](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/bumper)) to the shell was not the most difficult part of the build so far, it did have the most dramatic effect on me personally. I had that first “AH!” moment, where I felt like this was really coming together. Earlier on in the week, I had marked the placement of the shock mount holes. There are five holes in all: two on the left side and two on the right side ((for M6 30 mm socket head screws) and one in the middle (for a M6 50 mm socket head screw). If the measurements of the shock mount weren’t identical to Stefan’s plans, they were very close. So, I prepared a template for the side holes (which I placed on the inside surfaces—see photo below) and another for the centre hole (which I seem to have misplaced and I neglected to take a picture): ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/a/0/a0195ad8390365d8dfd209af524a376df868b5f3.jpeg) Then it was time to drill. But wait… I have to share an interesting side note. I was originally going to use one M6 50 mm ridged black cap style socket head screw to secure the shock mount, as per Ben’s instructions. Then I realized that the thread in the GBFans [metal bellows](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/metal-bellows) was not metric, but imperial. I knew that PssdffJay used the same bellows for this pack, so I checked his build thread to determine what bolt I need to use. Jay used a 1/4”-20 x 2 stove bolt, but I decided to get a shorter ¼”-20 x 2” bolt (50 millimeters is very close to 2” long) black ridged cap-style socket head screw from D&D Bolt Supply in Red Deer (I also picked up a 2 ½” long bolt like Jay, just in case). The bolt screwed into the bellows perfectly. I have updated my bolts and screws list in the first post of this build thread reflect this change. Noooooooow it’s time for the holes. Firstly, I drilled the four holes on the sides of the shock mount (for what is normally called the bumper screws). Since I was using M6 30 mm screws (the same type of screws that are used to hold the shell to the [motherboard](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/motherboard)), I drilled the holes using a 15/64” bit. I did not drill the corresponding holes in the shell. It was important to me to save this step until the end, since this would really help with keeping the shock mount both level and plumb. Secondly, since I had already marked the centre of the [cyclotron](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/cyclotron) (on the exterior of the shell itself) at the start of my pack build, I drilled a ¼” hole for my new ¼”-20 x 20” bolt. Thirdly, using my dad’s dress press, I drilled a ¼” hole in the centre of the shock mount. Here’s a photo of me lining up the shock mount to the drill bit: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/e/b/eb4ece15a62cfdc9f2fbaf19799a195614c9c5f7.jpeg) Fourthly, I needed to create a spacer that would fit between the pack shell and the shock mount. At first, I didn’t know how high the shock mount was supposed to be over the cyclotron. In the photos of other peoples’ pack builds, I always thought the shock mounts looked a lot higher than the one on my own pack. Did others purposely raise the shock mount so that it’s extremities do not line up with the end of the shell (or sit flat against the motherboard)? After asking Ben, he told me that the space between the shell and the shock mount is about 6 mm and that he makes his spacers out of aluminum tubing. By placing my shock mount on my shell (with the ends of the shock mount lining up with the end of the shell), I measured about 6 mm of distance between the cyclotron and the shock mount as well. I then knew what I had to do. My dad had conveniently found a hexagonal piece of metal (it looked like a nut, but it was hollow inside) that he had found in his garage (I wish I knew the name for this kind of part). I decided to use that as a spacer. At 10” high, it was too tall, so we grinded it down until it fit perfectly: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/d/7/d7ec0f361f7db18686f8e401e9b74a8db5b22ca7.jpeg) ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/d/a/da71b7309811afc32b2a8a5debabe5839777a80b.jpeg) Fifthly, after screwing on the bellows, and with the spacer in place, I then needed to drill the four side holes in the shell to insert the bumper screws. This was the “last step” that I was referring to earlier. In all my measurements (and in Stefan’s plans), the centre of the cyclotron runs horizontally through two “side plates” (I don’t know what else to call them) on the end of the shell, which ended up being an important point of reference (even on the outline of the aluminum motherboard). All I needed to do was to have the ends of the shock mount sit flush against the motherboard (as discussed earlier), line-up the shock mount holes to the space between those “side plates,” insert my ¼” drill bit in the shock mount holes, make sure the centre of the shock mount was plumb using a set square, then drill my holes: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/0/8/084813b2c21aab916b4b80ed7f074fb263f408be.jpeg) Et voilà! Everything _looked_ level and plumb! ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/d/0/d05145e543219b3e8afd1fb1fc5e8a56b4b4f3e7.jpeg) ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/7/9/79a476d253fe7c7674b5c58e3abcf79a5f7f3a20.jpeg) I say _looked_ because the level was near useless. It was very hard for me to gauge the level of the shock mount, since the table I was working on probably wasn’t level in the first place. And please disregard the level in the photo… The bendy bellows certainly isn’t the best place to put it. **Inserting the Clippard Brass Elbow into the Ion Arm** After making some careful measurements, I found the location of the hole I wanted to drill into the aluminum block of the ion arm (I forgot to jot down the size of the drill bit that I used as well as the depth of the hole). Again, using my dad’s drill press, I used the appropriate tap drill size to drill the hole: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/2/7/27b0bad7753efc849ae2d09779c176dbe06f19ba.jpeg) After tapping the hole in the ion arm, I screwed in the Clippard brass elbow to make sure that it would stop turning with the hose barb pointing in the desired direction. It turns out that the hose barb was pointing directly at nine o’clock when it needs to be at 12 o’clock. In the end, I had to enlarge the diameter of the top of the hole so that the elbow could sink a teeny bit into the aluminum block (and thus permit it to screw in at an additional quarter-turn). This worked perfectly: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/0/6/06d6321b4a03b497b6f44ce64eae531be02f5431.jpeg) **Mounting the [Primary Power Distributor (PPD)](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/PPD)** For this one, I had to ask Ben what kind of screws he used to mount the PPD. He informed me that he used 5 mm self-tapping screws. When I went to D&D Bolt Supply in Red Deer, I picked up two 10 x ¾” self-drilling screws (again, I have updated my bolts and screws list in the first post). No template this time, since the holes are not visible once the PPD is mounted. Although I didn’t jot it down, I believe I used a 3/16 bit to drill two evenly-spaced holes in the shell. With my dad’s help, we squared up the PPD on the shell, then from the inside of the shell, we marked the location of the holes onto the side of the PPD with the screws themselves: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/7/6/76d350f7ace78d0f05ae6b69f0267afc12c01342.jpeg) Then I drilled two pilot holes into the PPD with a 5/32” drill bit. Finally, using a 5/16” socket, I screwed in the self-drilling screws from the inside of the shell. ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/a/f/af2cdcc84decd91787eb850617393aa102a88b21.jpeg) In hindsight, I may have done this step a little too fast. Although the PPD is perfectly flush with the shell, it may be rotated just a little too much towards the interior of the pack. Gaaaah. When we were lining up the PPD to make the marks through the shell holes, I must have been judging its placement from a poor perspective. See the photo below… And please be frank with your thoughts! ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/b/3/b33181806907a99c8c20a2187f9dc8f8a078f50d.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/v/6bbea6/32.png) [@Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/Venkmans_Swagger)\ **Post date:** [October 14, 2016, 8:29am UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/29 "2016-10-14T08:29:54Z")
Awesome updates again dude. This is going to be so damn clean its unreal ---
**Author:** ![canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/canpara/32/4041_2.png) [@canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/canpara)\ **Post date:** [October 14, 2016, 1:09pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/30 "2016-10-14T13:09:32Z")
Some questions that I am asking myself right now: 1. To insert the red and blue [nycoil](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/nycoil) tubes into the [injector tubes](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-injectors) and the pack shell (on the side of the [cyclotron](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/cyclotron)) does everyone screw in [Clippard hose barbs](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/clippard-hose-barb) (one for each hole)? 2. Is a Clippard hose barb necessary for the top of the PPD as well? 3. What diameter is the shell hole that is used to insert in the [ribbon cable](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/ribbon-cable)? I’ll be scouring the various build threads this weekend to find answers to these questions, but your help is certainly appreciated! ---
**Author:** ![Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/v/6bbea6/32.png) [@Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/Venkmans_Swagger)\ **Post date:** [October 14, 2016, 2:34pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/31 "2016-10-14T14:34:17Z")
1. Some builders do, some don’t. The barbs are great for a nice tight fit. The accurate way is to just feed the tubing into the [injector](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/injectors) holes and block. I went without the barbs in my SH Stantz build. 2. It isn’t necessary as the PPD should just be drilled with the tubing sitting snug within the hole. I again went this route on my SH Stantz 3. I drilled my loom hole at 3/4 so it holds my loom nice and snug. Like everything in a pack build it is accuracy vs preference dude ---
**Author:** ![canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/canpara/32/4041_2.png) [@canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/canpara)\ **Post date:** [October 14, 2016, 2:48pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/32 "2016-10-14T14:48:26Z")
> [@Venkman's Swagger](#): > > 1. Some builders do, some don’t. The barbs are great for a nice tight fit. The accurate way is to just feed the tubing into the injector holes and block. I went without the barbs in my SH Stantz build. > > 2. It isn’t necessary as the PPD should just be drilled with the tubing sitting snug within the hole. I again went this route on my SH Stantz > > 3. I drilled my loom hole at 3/4 so it holds my loom nice and snug. > > Like everything in a pack build it is accuracy vs preference dude Thanks so much for the advice! I’ll make a judgment call this weekend, but right now I’m leaning towards just feeding the tube into the holes of the [injector tubes](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-injectors) and the PPD. ---
**Author:** ![Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/v/6bbea6/32.png) [@Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/Venkmans_Swagger)\ **Post date:** [October 14, 2016, 2:58pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/33 "2016-10-14T14:58:08Z")
> [@canpara](#): > > > [@Venkman's Swagger](#): > > > > 1. Some builders do, some don’t. The barbs are great for a nice tight fit. The accurate way is to just feed the tubing into the injector holes and block. I went without the barbs in my SH Stantz build. > > > > 2. It isn’t necessary as the PPD should just be drilled with the tubing sitting snug within the hole. I again went this route on my SH Stantz > > > > 3. I drilled my loom hole at 3/4 so it holds my loom nice and snug. > > > > Like everything in a pack build it is accuracy vs preference dude > > Thanks so much for the advice! I’ll make a judgment call this weekend, but right now I’m leaning towards just feeding the tube into the holes of the injector tubes and the PPD. You’re welcome!! Looking forward to seeing what you do ---
**Author:** ![canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/canpara/32/4041_2.png) [@canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/canpara)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2016, 3:44pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/34 "2016-10-16T15:44:20Z")
**\*\*Drilling holes for the PVC tubing in the [injector tubes](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-injectors) and the PPD \*\*** Yesterday, I worked on drilling the holes for the red and blue PVC tubing that connects the injector tubes to the inside of the shell (via the lower [cyclotron](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/cyclotron)) or from the [ion arm](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-ion-arm) to the PPD. Upon inspecting the PVC tubing that was included in the Benofkent Props kit, I notice a significant difference in width between the blue and the [red tubing](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/14-tubing-red). The [blue tubing](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/14-tubing-blue) is about 6 mm wide (¼”), while the red tubing is about 4 mm wide (5/32”). ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/8/f/8f69d4f157f06bff8025e927e56530d45b62cafa.jpeg) Although the 5/32” red tubing might be ideal for connecting the [Legris](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/legris) straights to the Legris or SMC elbows on the HGA and the cyclotron (I haven’t tried this yet), I didn’t think it was normal for the injector tubes. I was under the impression that the red tubing that goes from the injector tubes into the shell was uniform in width to the blue tubing. Other build threads and reference photographs seemed to confirm my suspicion, as most builds seem to use red ¼” [nycoil](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/nycoil) tubing or the red ¼” tubing from the GBFans shop. Perhaps this red ¼” tubing was omitted from the kit by accident? Or perhaps I lost it somehow? Even though I didn’t yet have the red ¼” PVC tubing, I decided to drill my holes to that diameter and use the blue ¼” PVC tubing as reference in the meantime. I will try to find the appropriate Nycoil tubing somewhere locally, if I can (I will reach out to PssdffJay to see if he found some anywhere, as he mentioned that he would try to find some as well in his build thread). However, if anyone knows of a place, please share! To start, I drilled ¼” holes on the top of the injector tubes and the PDD using a drill press. The holes are uniformly 1” (25 mm) deep. I also drilled the top hole on the [beam line](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-beam-line) tube for the last remain [Clippard brass elbow](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/clippard-brass-elbow). Again, was a 5/16” hole with a nominal size 3/8”-16 NC tap. ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/e/a/ea7fe270284ca4f0b9a6d9ec43340b6cef5246dd.jpeg) Then I drilled two ¼” holes into the shell at the connection point of the lower cyclotron. I quickly looked at Stefan’s plans to see if they specified the measurements for these holes, but I didn’t look hard enough and I thought they were unspecified. Boy do I regret this part, since I drilled my holes using my [bumper](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/bumper) screws template (so that they line up consistently with the bumper screws), then I realized that the measurements _were_ indeed specified in Stefan’s plans and now my holes are too close to the edge of the shell in comparison to the plans: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/3/5/35d0820ea7cb11b1a2b2cf14d8ebe1367ff064a8.jpeg) What a dumb-dumb mistake, especially since I have been trying to remain as true to the plans as possible. Well, there’s not much I can do about it now. At least the tubing fits very nice and snug inside the holes: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/4/0/4002575e9967c00bc0b9593ac3cd3670c3de9ab3.jpeg) **Mounting the [ribbon cable](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/ribbon-cable) aluminum hold-down** After double and triple checking Stefan’s plans for the ribbon cable aluminum hold-down, I didn’t find any measurements, so I looked at his “Pack Overview” plans and decided to eyeball-it as best as I could. Although it isn’t secured into the shell, I placed the [filler plug](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/uncategorized/filler-plug) onto the shell for reference. Using a pencil, I marked the location of the holes onto my shell, then I drilled the holes with a 1/8” drill bit and then used a nominal size M4 x 0.7 mm tap. ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/0/8/0853f0e6fe3e2039efb580973bc99ab01bc53408.jpeg) The bolts fit very well in the holes that I just drilled, however, I’m worried that they won’t’ be long enough to fit into the shell once I clamp the actual ribbon cable. The bolts are 1/2" long. Has anyone once else encountered this problem with the [ribbon cable clamp](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/ribbon-cable-clamp) from GBFans? In any case, it’s not a big deal, as I will try to find some longer bolts at Home Depot or Lowes. ---
**Author:** ![Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/v/6bbea6/32.png) [@Venkmans\_Swagger](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/Venkmans_Swagger)\ **Post date:** [October 16, 2016, 7:41pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/35 "2016-10-16T19:41:29Z")
The tubing holes look perfect dude. Don’t sweat it. Great update again ---
**Author:** ![sgwmeredith](https://forum.gbfans.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/s/e9c0ed/32.png) [@sgwmeredith](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/sgwmeredith)\ **Post date:** [October 17, 2016, 10:28am UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/36 "2016-10-17T10:28:54Z")
I’m just finishing up my benofkent build and there was a larger red tube in my kit. Have a work with Ben and I’m sure he’ll sort it out for you. ---
**Author:** ![canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/canpara/32/4041_2.png) [@canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/canpara)\ **Post date:** [October 17, 2016, 12:31pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/37 "2016-10-17T12:31:16Z")
> [@sgwmeredith](#): > > I’m just finishing up my benofkent build and there was a larger red tube in my kit. Have a work with Ben and I’m sure he’ll sort it out for you. Awesome, thanks! How did your build go? ---
**Author:** ![sgwmeredith](https://forum.gbfans.com/letter_avatar_proxy/v4/letter/s/e9c0ed/32.png) [@sgwmeredith](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/sgwmeredith)\ **Post date:** [October 17, 2016, 1:05pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/38 "2016-10-17T13:05:45Z")
Really well thanks, I’ve still got a few bits to finish on the thrower which I hope to get done this weekend and I only had a few major disasters including snapping both the acrylic and 3d printed wand tip inner tube! I plan on putting a thread up on here with some pictures once I’ve finished it. ---
**Author:** ![canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/canpara/32/4041_2.png) [@canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/canpara)\ **Post date:** [October 17, 2016, 2:03pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/39 "2016-10-17T14:03:01Z")
> [@sgwmeredith](#): > > Really well thanks, I’ve still got a few bits to finish on the thrower which I hope to get done this weekend and I only had a few major disasters including snapping both the acrylic and 3d printed wand tip inner tube! I plan on putting a thread up on here with some pictures once I’ve finished it. Please do, I would love to check out your thread! It seems as though everyone has at least one major disaster. Mine happened yesterday when I used my Dremel to hollow out the [crank generator](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/crank-generator) (at the hole that I needed to cut to fit the loom coming from the vacuum tube :sigh: ). I will be posting an update sometime today. ---
**Author:** ![canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/user_avatar/forum.gbfans.com/canpara/32/4041_2.png) [@canpara](https://forum.gbfans.com/u/canpara)\ **Post date:** [October 17, 2016, 8:24pm UTC](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969/40 "2016-10-17T20:24:32Z")
**Cutting the mouse hole** The “mouse hole” refers to the hole in the bottom right of the [cyclotron](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/cyclotron) for the loom that eventually connects to the [neutrino wand](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/mattel-neutrino-wand). Although the interior diameter of the loom measures ¾” inches, I measured the diameter of the exterior to be 1” wide. I then found a socket that was 1” wide as well. After finding the centre of the appropriate shell plate and marking a ½” distance on each side of the centre, I traced the circumference of the socket to mark the 1” mouse hole. ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/6/d/6d5b7b0d1e9fc08aee7ec26bb3127620444b6584.jpeg) Then I drilled the hole using a 1” hole saw: ![image]([http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h409/canpara/temporary\_zpsyy42tycz.jpg](http://i1108.photobucket.com/albums/h409/canpara/temporary_zpsyy42tycz.jpg) The loom fit really well: [img][http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/canpara/temporary\_zpsybkvnf2v.jpg](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/canpara/temporary_zpsybkvnf2v.jpg)) I noticed some builders removed the two pointy lips from the shell on the bottom portion of the mouse hole. I imagine they did this because they were worried that the lips might accidentally puncture or cut the loom. If I kept the lips, should I be worried about this? **Fitting the booster cap into the [booster tube](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/booster-tube)** I was curious as to how one accomplishes this task without drilling any screws from the outside of the booster tube. So, naturally, I asked Ben through Facebook Messenger. Within a couple of minutes, he explained everything to me. Firstly, Ben cuts and sands a 1” square piece of wood until it fits snuggly inside the tube. Secondly, he pushes the resin booster cap into the tube to set the square piece of wood to the proper height in the tube. Thirdly, he removes the booster cap and then places a load of hot glue on top of the piece of wood. Fourthly, he reinserts the booster cap down the booster tube and presses it against the piece of wood. The glue gushes out between the grips and the tube, thus securing the booster cap into the booster tube. My dad and I found a piece of wood lying around in the garage and cut it to the proper width. We rounded the edges with a hand planer. Although Ben’s instructions specified a 1” long piece of wood, we ended up creating one that was 2” long for the simple reason that we saw no harm in doing so. ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/3/5/3598002e5b6e573dab11b4db2b641a6dcdc79ca3.jpeg) Then I fit the piece of wood down the booster tube, like so: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/0/4/04ffd6d2472349fb4bbc6607f03e20d26559cf38.jpeg) Finally, I placed the resin booster cap into the cap and set the height of the piece of wood according to measurements in Stefan’s plans. The end of the resin booster cap is now protruding outside of the booster tube by ¼”. ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/0/2/024223578223161cd5f31b5560e700928d3c5041.jpeg) Although I could have poured the glue onto the piece of wood and properly secured booster cap into the tube, I decided to finish this part another day. I intend to sand down the piece of wood a little bit and paint the booster cap before permanently gluing it into place. **[Ribbon cable](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/ribbon-cable) hole** This is another hole where I could not find any specifications in Stefan’s plans, so like most of the builders here, I decided to make a best guess. PssdffJay and Venkman’s Swagger both drilled a ¾” hole in their shells, so if that worked for them, well that was good enough for me. Once again, I used a socket to trace the circumference of the ¾” hole. Using a ¼” drill bit, I ensured that the socket was a uniform distance from both edges of the shell, like so: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/1/2/12341118faad94612ffd65fe1e23c4fd577ed27e.jpeg) Then I drilled a nice and clean hole with a ¾” hole saw: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/a/f/af63a254f0d2e736a71f93dbc81ba34acee386cd.jpeg) **[Crank generator](https://www.gbfans.com/wiki/equipment/proton-pack/crank-generator) hole for the [vacuum line](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-vacuum-line) loom** **_ADVISORY: the following update contains mature subject mature, including scenes of brutality and violence. Viewer discretion is advised._** Seriously, this isn’t for the faint of heart. This is my first major screw up on this pack build. One that caused damage and needs fixing. Although many shells seem to have a hollow crank generator, it’s only partially hollow in the Benofkent Props shell. Drilling the hole for the loom of the vacuum line isn’t merely drilling a hole through the shell. It’s more akin to drill a shaft through the polyurethane. Using the same 1” socket trick, I traced the location of the hole on the crank generator: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/c/3/c37174eecc103f14697a489db8cc4d67c5fecc36.jpeg) Then I marked the centre of the hole onto the shell and I started drilling a little pilot hole. Immediately I found that it was difficult to drill straight, since part of the shell was obstructing the drill. This only meant that my drilling was going into have a slight downward angle. Then I switched my drill bit for 7/8” hole saw. I chose 7/8” because I was worried that the 1” hole saw would be too large and that the hole would be two close to the extremities of the shell. After testing on a piece of wood, I found that the loom still fit within a 7/8” hole, even though it was really tight. Remember when I said that the crank generator is partially hollow? Well, as soon as the hole saw found the hollow part of the shell, it really pulled toward that direction. This is what happened: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/d/5/d595881a6cc6ffff20ff0e8c28f70bfb7fc819b7.jpeg) GROSS. Chipping occured, but since this part would be covered by the loom (and a ¾” wood dowling that I plan to fit inside the loom to straighten it), I figured it wasn’t a big deal. So I decided to proceed continue my drilling using a Dremel, both _through_ the hole that I had just drilled and from the inside of the shell. The Dremel was working really well until this happened: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/e/f/efd9ba6249ef3e96c225cc678e711cabf8c61d3d.jpeg) You see that little black line on the bottom? Well, here’s a view from the outside: ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/9/8/98b832cf519199ba357f3f57362bbb941e45f7d2.jpeg) After two screw-ups, I decided I had enough. I probably grinded out a large enough shaft for the dowling and loom anyhow. Although the damage is certainly disheartening, I will try to patch it up with some epoxy or some Bondo. Not today, though. Wish me luck! **[Dale PH-25 resistor](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/dale-ph-25-resistors) (no ring variant)** The arrival by mail of a Dale PH-25 resistor really picked me up after the infamous _Crank Generator Massacre_. I had purchased it from Dreamstalker, who was kind enough to reply to my wanted ad on the GBFans forum. Thanks again, Isabel! Well, the PH-25 is _almost_ a Dale… it’s labelled as a _Dalohm_ PH-25-25W 76 ohm 3% 016. It’s metal and it feels like the real deal. Close enough. ![image](https://discdn.gbfans.com/original/3X/a/b/abf806f767b2dcc18445b94c52c1cbd9f1be76bc.jpeg) Now that I have this part, I can drill (and tap) the last remaining hole for the [ion arm](https://www.gbfans.com/shop/aluminum-welded-ion-arm). That, too, will be for another day. [Previous page](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969.md?page=1) [Next page](https://forum.gbfans.com/t/canparas-semi-hero-gb1-proton-pack-build-pic-heavy/14969.md?page=3)