I just noticed that the rear handle grip fixing system has been already discussed in the Filandrius thrower build thread… Sorry. However, it has never been clarified if rivets was used in both movies, as the screenshots do not allow to see it, maybe because they was painted black like the grip.
So - if I have understood correctly - all the hero packs currently surviving are from GB1 and then restored and re-used in GB2?
Here is a pic showing some very little progress on my gun, just installed front and top knobs and the red/clear arcolectric indicators (I removed the light bulbs as they will be replaced with the Exoray’ kit leds). Both knobs required a little extra work to match the shape of the screen used ones, as they missed some details (the hole on front knob and the hollow for the screw head on top knob) and had too sharp edges. All my knobs was made by Fenix Props (Argentina) about a couple of years ago according to Stefan’s plans.
About the beautiful side discs made by jpa35, there is a very thin built-in washer that raises them from the gun body. Is it screen accurate? I do not remember any reference pics showing this particular.
Wow, metal AND tip extend AND vibration motor AND what looks like the Jupiter kit. Impressive. The inside of that thrower’s gonna get real snug real quick!
In the meantime, do show off more of that tip extend mechanism!
Thanks for the kind words but I really have to thank all the people whose work inspired me: Filandrius for so many suggestions, Cyland Props for the barrel extending system, Exoray for the vibrating module idea, and many others I’ve forgot.
From my last update in April I’ve also bought some more screen accurate greebles and real parts than the ones I already had, like the correct hat cap lens with socket bases from AJ Quick, Legris old-type banjos and Clippard valve old-style screws from Masteryoda, dry rub transfers and labels from Parksdesign.
Even if I’m a little skilled about model making, because of my inexperience in electronics and since Exoray’s kit is no longer available I decided to start trying with something not too much expensive, so I bought the latest version of the gun light kit from Jupiter with amber bargraph and a few customizations (just received), and the sound board from Crix (waiting for delivery).
The problem is that the Jupiter’s light kit comes with dpdt toggle switches but single pole pushbutton. They also says it has “a built-in voltage regulator which can work over a much wider voltage range than the specs indicated in the item description, allowing you to operate the light boards at whatever different voltage your sound kit needs”, but I don’t know if this feature allows me to wire both the sound and the light boards to the same single pole pushbutton. To get the barrel flickering light activated together with the stream sound and the vibrating motor maybe I would need even a triple pole button…
Asap I’ll post a short video showing the barrel extender in action. I’m looking for a solution involving magnets to keep the tip closed or extended.
I know you’re totally right…
Anyway - while this may be of interest to someone - I have no intentions to build a whole pack as I’m a movie prop collector from many years with serious problems of space! I’ll make just an external ausiliary box to accomodate the sound board, amplifier, speakers and batteries.
The only think i HATE about Jupiter electronics is the stupid pulsating Vent light. It was such a turn off for me. Lukily i used it in a resin gun n pack that i built and sold off right away. His bar graph was brighter than my Proptronix bar-graph too in my aluminum gun
In fact, a fixed vent light was the first change I asked to Jupiter. But in the end I decided to replace it anyway with a self-powered incandescent lamp.
Still about the lights, anyone does know if the recessed white hat cap lens near the vent holes on the top of the gun was never lighted on the screen?
You make me blush! I only hope to find the time and the calm to complete this project I’ve been chasing for nearly 20 years.
Maybe this will be not too much complicated (at least I hope), by shortening the wires unnecessarily too long, fixing and protecting them with zip ties, tape, heat shrink, separators, hooks or something, and overall keeping the room very tidy. I’m doing many attempts and test to avoid mistakes before every progress. My biggest concern now is that @#]@$£"! single pole pushbutton.
Those buttons seem to be the bane of many ghostheads, so if you find a source, please share.
One thing I know of from my time with aircraft wiring is to knock down any sharp edges near the wiring. At least that way, if something DOES come loose, there’s less chance of chafing and shorting.
From your earlier pictures I couldn’t understand how it was going to work…I think I like this idea better than the spring method as there is no chance of breaking the acrylic tube!
Thanks to everyone for the consideration but I don’t like to take other people’s merits. This system already existed before. I just refined the following pattern posted by Cyland Props in this thread: http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=3001&p=333244.
