-- Hooker Scratch Pack WIP-- 5/26/10

It has been a while since I did a WIP thread but since there seem to be many new builders on the site I thought I would start a scratch built pack using only the basic of hand tools and materials.

For this build I am using:

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00442.jpg)

-Hobby knife

-mm / inch straight edge

  • miter gauge

  • sanding block

  • a compass

  • a fine point marker

  • Styrene material (.08 body & .125 for ribs)

  • Styrene cement

  • and Mt. Dew Throwback to keep me hydrated

Styrene is a great user friendly material that cuts easy and provides a nice smooth surface. For those who have never used styrene before you can find it at many plastic suppliers in large sheets or in small sections at your local hobby shop. Basically mark your line, score the plastic, and snap it off. Take the time to lightly sand the edge smooth and you are set.

I am starting this pack (based from Stefans plans) from the top working left ot right and finishing with the cylcotron last. Many people have their own methods for taking on a pack but for this thread I am starting with the easier sections and building up to the large bottom area.

Start of the power cell:

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00420.jpg)

Lego blocks provide the perfect spacing for the powercell ribs for those who have a hard time getting your lines straight.

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00421.jpg)

Next is the Booster Area which I chose to do in two sections. Here is a shot of the inside with added supports put into the corners and seams.:

Section #1

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00434.jpg)

Section #2

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00430.jpg)

As move from section to section make sure you double check all your measurements and check for fit. Using a mobo for layout proves to also be an added guide. Also be sure to sand all your seams smooth to ensure proper alignment of your sections

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00445.jpg)

Next is the start of the gear box. This piece will take a considerable amount of time compared to the rest of the smaller sections due to tapered sides, large and small roundovers on the edges, and many rib sections.

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00443.jpg)

Again, using the mobo and measurements to ensure everything is square and fitting properly.

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00446.jpg)

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00447.jpg)

**One final shot with the sections placed together and a few pieces put on to make it look like something. **

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00450.jpg)

I will continue to add more photos and comments through the remainder of this build. Feel free to post any questions, comments, or concerns as I go.

Very, very clean build there so far Hooker. I love seeing scratch built packs, especially ones from styrene. Can’t wait to see more.

looks like im gonna have to pick up some styrene and start my own. looks great tim, cant wait to see more.

Tim, will you marry me?

ok so i know what the shiny silver stuff is. what are the other materials? is the Styrene the white stuff and the grey material is what?

sorry if it’s not shiny and silver i don’t know what to do with it : )

Yes.

Jason, both the gray and material is .08 styrene. The color difference also aids me when sanding the seams and radiuses to see they are even.

Beautiful, beautiful, beautiful…

Awesome work, Tim! Very VERY clean! I’m definately jealous.

Brilliant.

Did you happen to find that styrene with a local supplier? If so, I need names!

Loving the WIP. Can’t wait for the next segment.

this guy… great freaking work so far dude! ur projects are wayyyy cooler then mine!

YES! now THATS what im talking about!

Keep it comming Hooker!

Totes Ah.May.Zing.

That lego trick is pretty awesome too.

Sexy.

The lego trick is indeed pretty awesome; when I did mine, I just used the pre-cut ribs to space it that way since they’re all about 1/2"… which was close enough for me.

Its beautiful sniffle

Great job Tim

Looks super clean so far Tim really great work. Looking forward to more of your progress.

Chris

Great job.

Awesome job, I was thinking of what to build mine from (since the first will more than likely just be a wallhanger) and styrene looks like it might be the answer. Can’t wait to see how you pull off the cyclotron. :cool:

i have never worked with Styrene before and the thing that i was wondering is how strong is this stuff. I see you are going to have some Aluminum parts attached to this so i would think that this material has to be fairly rigid to suport the weight. I am just amazed at what you guys do with this stuff.

Styrene is a great material to use if you don’t want to go the power tool route. The ABS itself is fairly rigid and the strength all depends on construction style and adhesive. Obviously styrene will not be as rigid and impact resistant as an MDF pack but you are trading in the the heavier duty pack for something much lighter. It has planty of strength on it’s own but may not make it sfaely through those crowded bar gatherings.

Okay so just a quick update:

I had time to work on the gear box to get the rib sections cut and installed.

** I chose to make the bottom rib section from a single length of styrene and hand file out the profile as well as filing into the gear box itself to match what is seen in some of the reference pics.**

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00452.jpg)

you can see a little bit of the grooves worked into the body of the gear box

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00456.jpg)

and a shot with ribbing attached with some un-finished sanding to round over the edges.

![image](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/thook55/New PACK_DSC00458.jpg)

I have a busy week so I will try and get some more progress pics up by week’s end.