I didn’t say perfect, I said accurate. 
And I agree about those last little touches. Really feels complete now. That’s a first for me. 
The fuller’s earth looks great!
Told ya.
Well, with all the new discoveries about the GB1 trap pedal, I had to do something about mine. It was getting less and less accurate by the minute. 
So here it is after a few minor fixes:
Black DB-9 hood! I only removed it and repainted it flat black. Minor detail, but I like it a lot.
And how can we forget Bobamatt’s label on top of the relay? Luckily I had one left. 
So that’s it for now! Maybe I’ll replace the ribbon cable assembly for a correct 26-pin, but not right now. Too busy with the new house! 
Very nice! Gunna remove the vector plate fins for uber accuracy?
Maybe later. 
I’m aware of the remaining inaccuracies (the extra fins on the vector plate, the 20-pin cable, the card edge connector, the unpainted pedal screws…) but they’ll have to wait. Just like my pack, I’ll start working on it again when the move is done.
Speaking of which, any idea on how to remove these? This looks tricky without utterly destroying the plate.
simply sensational …
Here’s the latest (and probably the last) update for my trap pedal. I finally got around upgrading the parts from my latest GBfans shop order, and I now consider my trap to be GB1 accurate. So here’s the pics!
Replaced the 20-pin wall header and the ribbon cable with the correct 26-pin. It’s a real subtle difference, but nothing is subtle when it comes to accuracy.
I also got rid of the card edge thingy, which was more accurate to GB2. Now the 26-pin cable goes straight into the DB-9 connector, where it’s held in place with a screw that goes into the project box. Tough as all hell.
Another subtle detail that I fixed: I painted the screws and the hinge. I also painted the hex bolt thingy on the end of the base, because it’s a little more subtle and that detail is a little obscure.
Another shot for the road. Like I said, I now consider it GB1 accurate, at least as much as my trap. I also reapplied a little fuller’s earth all over, but that’s a given.
That’s it for this prop! If I lose my mind someday I may try to remove the extra ridges on the pedal, but I wouldn’t hold my breath if I were you. :lol:
It’s a beautiful Trap Pedal (and were it not for this build, mine wouldn’t be what it is today). Great photos.
Thanks man, real appreciated. And glad to be of help. Yours turned out great, by the way. 
that pedal is just awsome, that is my reference built thread for my upcoming pedal!
trying to get a dry rub transfer for the pin header. I’ll keep you updated…
Thanks man. Feel free to ask any question you may have.
A what for the what now?
from my pedal build thread which is languishing in limbo…
Far right… Decal.
I’ve also got a pile of the correct screws if you want a couple. I know how super accurate you want to be…
You’ve just blown my mind. Are those screws 4-40?
Yep…surprised you never saw my thread.
I abandoned it when I started building packs lol.
Apparently, those screws are hard to find. I found some on ebay and talked the guy into sending me a bag full instead of 10,000 for $300.00
Myself and another designer have been having fun trying to extrapolate and draw the markings on the header for a new dry rub transfer. I think we’re close now…though the numbers on there will just have to be pure conjecture.
great build!!
Like I was saying in my trap build thread, I applied the same weathering I did on my pack, but on my pedal as well. You know, steel wool, salt water, fuller’s earth, the works. I also took this opportunity to do a small upgrade on my pedal: I replaced the brass screw on the banjo with a steel one. Yeah, I know we’re not sure if this is actually accurate for GB1, but I like it a whole lot better. Here the final result!
That’s it for now!
B-E-A-UTIFUL.
A very small (and most likely final) update for the new year: I finally got a Legris straight to replace that darn inaccurate Alkon. Here’s a pic:
