I used PCB board stand offs as nut inserts.8-32 thread 1/4 inch thick. ACE hardware should have them, thats were I found them. If not here:
Been meaning to update this thread as went along, but I have been working on this at a feverish pace.
Just to add a level of difficulty, I started a new thrower at the same time. Both projects are driving me up the wall.
I bought the aluminum from a metal supply house along with the metal bar that I used for the ion cap. I think I paid $7 all together. It also makes a great drop cloth
I made a paint rack to paint all of the small bits. Plus, while I was waiting for parts to dry, I prepped my pack for paint…
Masked off.
I have a feeling if I keep staring at it, I will end up finding something else to do to it and drive myself nuts.
Textured and primered
Three Coats of Aluminum
One coat of Semi-Gloss, not sure if I like it.
You should go Satin Black, and not look back.
I could have sworn that, Vinny, once upon a time said Semi-gloss. So thats what I grabbed the other day.
Now that I think of it, Satin is probably what he said.
Thank goodness I did a light coat.
Satin black is where its at:
Two weeks ago, I started my thrower build. The first one that I build was (is), not where I would like it to be.
My intention was to start a new thread, maybe a tutorial. But I think this thread will suffice.
Sticker paper from Office depot is much better than the paper from Walmart.
I have had good luck with the templates from Hprops. They are pulled from Stefans plans and are already scaled to compensate for .125 material. So I went and bought one sheet of .125 styrene from my local hobby shop for $11.
I loaded the sticker paper in the printer, unchecked the “center and rotate” and “scale to fit” options on the print screen, and then printed the templates out.
I then cut the templates that I was going to use for styrene and applied them. I also printed out the first page of Hprops templates on a piece of cardstock.
Here is the left over bits, I am not going to throw them away, but use them later.
Cut the shapes out with a scroll saw
Heres how I achieved the proper angles.
Dryfitted and marked, ready for the heatgun.
After about 4 hours of work.
PVC pipe miter sawed and placed on the box.
Marked for cutting
This where I stopped taking photos, I dont know why. Here I have secured the pipe with a screw and wedged a toothpick to hold in place so I can glue it.
I have the nut inserts installed, and the hole for the wiring drilled in the instrument bar. I should note that I used screws to attach the instrument bar, so I can remove it to service or upgrade it.
and finally:
Your scratchbuilding ability is mindblowing.
Before this build, I never build anything from scratch. I have little experience when it comes to building something like this.
I have said it before to others who are intimidated about building; no one starts out knowing this stuff,
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prep, prep, and more prep
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plan it out
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take your time
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don’t be afraid to mess up
If it does not come out the way you like it, fix it, but don’t give up because you think you can’t do it or it looks horrible to you.
How’d you manage to make your styrene so clean? I’ve been using the score and snap method, which achieves less than stellar results along the edges..
I cheat. 
I use a scroll saw.
You can find them pretty cheap at Pawn shops. I have seen them for about $49.
WOW! I’m totally amazed at how good it looks. My scratchbuilding abilities are insignificant compared to yours:). Your work may give me the inspiration I’m needing to build my own thrower (I’ve been having thought of buying a resin kit…). Many thanks for sharing this with us…
Ah, I have nowhere to use such a thing. All my propbuilding is done on the kitchen counter 
Damn 830 sq ft condos…
“You’ve got the tools, you’ve got the talent!”
I did not like the texturing that was on the shell so I took some of the paint off and started over.
Started sanding it back down to the raw.
Then I switched to a biodegradable paint stripper and removed layers and layers of paint.
Sand and sand, smooth everything out again. Then I did some test sprays with the texture until I got the setup I liked, and I tried painting it again.
Looking good man! Are you using the wall texture method?
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