This is** THE LONGEST UPDATE YET** so… you GET THE LONGEST SONG EVER.
Here we go, fortunately for you, if you havent downloaded the new gun file or the new bracket file, I decided it would be easier to cram them with the gun ears in one file.
IN THIS FILE:
YOU GET:
The Thrower body
2 ways to create the bracket and bottom plate
Trigger tip (with two ways to make it) and Gun Ears.
Open up your Thrower body file FIXED GUNBOX ATTACHED TRIGGERBOX. Take a real good look at every part.
PUT A BIG OLD X THROUGH THIS PART.
Because you wont need it. I figured out one afternoon while assembling, that i can just make a whole file for you to print on sticker paper and apply it to different sized styrene and not need this part. This is one of them that will be in that file.
You CAN cut these out, and use them as sleeves for your thrower handles, I didnt, because I thought it might be better with out them. Do what you like, they’re there for you to play with.
The same goes for what would be the bottom piece to the thrower box. You dont HAVE to cut out the inside of it, making it so you dont have to cut out the piece that goes inside that either. In the long run, it might be easier on you if you didnt cut it out. I’ll show you what it is later on in this build.
You can pretty much cut everything out now that you have a heads up about these two parts.
This shows where that frame i told you not to worry about cutting out will go. For the sake of my thrower, I didnt cut any surface holes from the piece out, I’ll be doing that after I resin it. I marked all of them ahead of time, by crossing them out, or paying real close attention.
These top vents would be retarded to cut out right now. Resin would pour everywhere and they’d be disgusting looking. It’s easier to make them solid, then dremel and drill them out later.
Anyway, prefold that sucker and throw some AACDT tape on it.
Then glue it together! also, PUT ON THE OTHER SIDE!
This is the Rear Instrument Bar prefolded and taped for your health!
Easiest way to attach the RIB to this, is align it on the outside to the bottom of the side, and superglue on the inside.
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SO FAR, SO GOOD!***
TRIGGER BOX PREFOLDED TAPED AND READY FOR SUPERGLUE!
TRIGGER BOX SUPERGLUED AND ALIGNED TO THE RIB!
Ok enough of that, take the trigger box and align it to the numbers on the outside and hold it’s tabs on the inside of the rib. Then superglue the outside.
Extra picture of where to superglue on the outside.
After the trigger box’s superglue on the outside cures, superglue the ■■■■ out the inside where the tabs meet. Also, there’s a little “nubby” tab for that back square, push that guy from the inside to flush with the rib, and superglue the heck out of it.
I didnt superglue these until I was finished with the body, so I could finagle them flush then i superglued them on the inside and the outside:
This is the inside of the bottom of the thrower box:
Looking back at it, you could go either way with this part too. It’s not necessary to cut out, the inside of the bottom piece, but for some reason I did, and this is how it’s assembled.
Pay real close attention to how this piece works, because I actually had to redo it, because i folded it backwards.
Then align it on the inside of the flat part of the thrower bottom…this is the piece i said you dont need to cut out, because it will raise some problems if you accidentally rip that thinner part of it cutting it out or assembling the inside piece with it. Anyway, I lined everything up
and flipped it over and superglued the inside
i dont remember why i took that picture, but maybe you superglue over the tabs like we’ve done before on so many other things where we superlgue the inside of something.
Gingerly slide it in to the bottom of the thrower body and superglue the tabs on the inside. Go at this any way you’re comfortable with. I went elaborate and taped one side, and opened the other and glued tabs on the inside all the way around.
CALL THAT ONE DONE:
TRIGGER EARS:
This is the left ear if you’re holding the thrower, there’s a strip of small tabs on small folds, it’s easier to leave them solid while you’re applying tape, then cut them.
This is the right ear, you’ll notice some slight curves on it, and no fold lines. I perforated lines there between the tabs so it made that curve, applied tape, then cut the tabs. easy.
DONE.
THE FRONT HANDLE
Here’s all the parts:
Thin wall 1" PVC pipe - I have to see if i have any left over of that particular size, what I have on my phone is:
20010 1" PVC 1120 SDR-21 PR 200 PSI (there’s some other ■■■■ that goes here) D-224 at lowes
3 of these female adapters from the PVC pipe section at Home Depot:
**1/2" pvc pipe ** - any sch will do. You want to have clearance inside for a screw(later), wires and your trigger mechanism for your clear acrylic tube(way later). You wont use a whole lot, so a 2’ stick will be MORE than what you need. Frankly you just need to have enough to go inside 2 adapters.
**
#48U COMPRESSION SPRING 3 1/4" LENGTH X 3/4" DIAMETER .47 WIRE GAUGE **- ace 3 bucks? There was a similar one to that, if your ace hardware drawers are a mess and cant find them it was 182 or 187
You also want to take notice that Ive kind of laid out where everything goes.
So take this:
and PVC glue it.
Even glue around the inside of it.
I cut the “front handle base” at 2" because i want mine to go inside my thrower box some. It will make it stronger of an attachment with resin on the inside and outside of it. Glue the inside of the handle base and push in the adapter until the nubbies are flush with the edge of the base.
Then glue the inside like this:
Then take another adapter that will be the one that goes inside the handle
**
Pretend you’re ignoring the screams of agony the adapter is screaming because it’s being put in a vice
**
Then route, dremel, drill or sand HALF of the threads out. if you drill all of them out, and it’s flush, that will be the adapter that goes on the front of the handle.
It should look like that^
Take that adapter with half of it’s threads drilled out, the other one with the handle base and get a REEEEEEEEEEEALLY small screw(not literally, but small enough to be able to support someone tugging) and a drill bit that goes with it. Put them together and do this:
You want that hole to be drilled at a good spot, roughly middle towards the threads of the adapter that goes inside the thrower handle all the way to the center of the 1/2" pvc pipe. Then take out the handle base w/ 1/2" pipe out of that adapter and get a drill bit the size of the head of the screw and drill out that hole you just made from the adapter:
That^ then drill three more times in a row about 1/2" - 3/4" in length. It helps to reassemble the pieces for the rotating barrel assembly to make it work the length you want it to work.
Like this:
And This:
Mark your screw, with an arrow, transfer the arrow to the handle base, then start pushing your rotating assembly into the handle, this distance that’s exposed of the back adapter is a nominal distance. I went with 1/4" because im going to need that space for my game thrower, that actually might be too much. Unfortunately, i dont know the space distance that’s supposed to be there. “Nominal” doesnt quite cut it for me. Anyway:
Like this:
You’ll notice you have to glue it, but it’s ALLLLLL the way down that hole. I took a wire, dipped it in that pvc glue and wiped it around where it met the inside of the handle and the adapter. It was too dark in there to take a picture after it was glued, so here:
**
Dont put the adapter that goes on the end in the pipe yet, you need to leave it open to get your spring for the pop out mechanism and your acrylic tube squared away before you close it off.**
This is my spring set up so far:
talk about no brainer.
HERE’S WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE RIGHT NOW:
I *THINK *WE’RE READY FOR RESIN.
While you all keeping up are probably ready for it…IM NOT I have a whole mess of stuff to make for my packs before they’re ready. So, I’ll be putting this build on a slight repose until Im situated with my build for resin. If you would LIKE to know all i need to do:
Figure out:
Brackets the slime thrower attaches to on the front handle of the thrower
Assemble:
Meson Collider upgrade thrower body
Meson Collider upgrade thrower bracket
Slime PDS upgrade thrower body
Slime PDS upgrade thrower bracket
Slime thrower cap
1 slime tank heat sink bodies
2 slime tank heat sinks
2 crank box vents
Bondo:
Slime tanks
Slime thrower (when cap is assembled and resined)
Sand:
1 slime tank heat sink body.
**
HOPEFULLY I’ll have that stuff started tomorrow.**
During my pause, if you’re using pvc pipe for your pack, you might want to start looking in the drain section of home depot and get:
2" pvc pipe for your booster and your hga (unless you want to use a coupling for that cut to size)
2 of these for your injector tubes
I didnt count how many you’ll need for one, but plan it out before you go for everything else.
The only exception is the nfilter which we will be using aluminum for.
That’s it for now, If there are any questions about everything up to this point, dont hesitate to ask!