Maybe. 8) I should have done some research to find the code. If you could PM me a link, that would be swell.
Azgbfan, Thanks for the support!
The arduino code I wrote can be found at the link below. I am not a coder and was new to arduino, so I just did whatever I could come up with to make it work.
www.boonelangston.com/PackBuild/ProtonPackFinal.pde
I am working on a schematic that will allow a user to power all of the packs lights from one arduino board. The code will change some by the time I’m done, but I’m not sure when I’ll get around to finishing it.
As my final code and schematic are not complete, below is just a short description of how the wiring is done on the lights seen in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkOSXK5P7Tk
Pin 1 is the wand tip light, pin> button/switch> resistor> led> ground
Pin 2-7 are the power cell lights, pin> resistor> led> ground
Pin 10-13 are the cyclotron lights, pin> resistor> led> ground
There are probably better options out there, this is just what I came up with.d
Thank you for this. I have wanted to get into working with arduinos, just haven’t made that leap yet. Been busy with other things. Just curious, what type do you have? What model of ardunio? Again, that you for your time.
Duemilinove. Glad to help!
This is an old school build! I love it!
Thanks AJ, For me the fun really is in wrestling with every piece of the build, or chancing upon them in dimly lit rooms 
Posting to the forum has definitely given me new momentum!
So I lost steam when I realized my pack wouldn’t be done for Halloween 2011 and I took a hiatus for several months. I’m preparing a presentation on GB for the class of another teacher in my building, and I figured I need to at least wow them with some lights and sound, so I’m back at it. Maybe this thing will be done by Halloween this year…
I made some slight changes to the Arduino code that I wrote a while back (not to mention that I had to pull the Arduino out of the control box that I built for my DIY Christmas light show) and I wired in Crix’s soundboard, which I got just before work stopped a few months back. Pretty pleased with this little test run. It will be great to show the students, and hopefully this gives me the motivation to keep plugging away at this pack little by little.
Great parts so far, but I have one concern: I don’t think particleboard is going to be sturdy enough to support the weight of your pack without bending as you move back and forth. Would hate to see something you worked your ass off to make meet an awful fate because of that. Just something to think about.
I assume you’re talking about the motherboard? You might be right about that. I was going for the proper thickness in a material that I already had. It is not super rigid though. I have read more lately about guys making their own aluminum ones, so we’ll see what materializes. I’m also in less than a hurry now than I was at the end of August, so I should have time to find an adequate solution.
Thanks for lookin’ out!
Yeah, I was referring to the mobo. Particleboard flexes a lot and can cause issues. I used MDF for mine and even that flexes more than I’m comfortable with… which is why I plan to redo it when the funds allow. I think aluminum’s the way to go.
Taking a stab at modding my SMC elbows to look a bit more like Legris.
That looks great! How did you do it?
Thanks for the feedback! I was pretty pleased with the results myself.
I first tried trimming the flanged part of the orange fitting off, and it seemed too short, so it was ruined in my opinion. As an alternative, I turned the flange down with a rotary tool. I was pretty satisfied with it. I hand painted the body with dark grey testors and the orange piece with gold testors.
Michael’s only had gold and copper testors. I’m thinking I’m going to go to a real hobby shop to see if they have something that looks more like the brass fitting.
Michael’s (Craft store) also used to carry several different metallic paints. May be a place to look. 
Thanks man, That’s actually where I found only the copper and gold, they may carry brass and just be out of stock… I was thinking about going to Bridgetown Hobbies, they have a ridiculous selection of model paint.
So my wife’s grandfather sent me a Craftsman scroll saw and I figured I needed to put it to good use while also making some progress on the pack. I Figured the booster frame would be a good piece to start next. I Printed off Jack Doud’s dimensions and spray glued them to a piece of wood. I Drilled some pilot holes to feed the scroll saw blade through. Several minutes at the saw and a few scuffs with the sand paper later, I have what I think is a reasonable start to my booster frame.
Very cool. Keep going. Very curious on how you are going to do the spacer and gun box. Also, when it comes to the motherboard. Go to your local metal shop. Welders go there for metal… anyways, wonder over to their scrape pile. I bought a huge piece (enough for 2 motherboards and 6 trap holsters for under $10!!! It is worth the trip. Once the final “shell” is done, lay the pack on top. Trace and jig saw to a custom made mobo!!!
Thanks Azgbfan! Did you cut your own aluminum MOBO? I have heard you can use a regular jig saw with a metal blade and get it done. Do you have to spray water on it do keep the temp down? Anyhow, my scroll saw blows my jig saw away, so I might be looking for some metal blades for that. I definitely think I will be going that route. It really was silly of me to try to cut a MOBO before all of the components were finished, at least for the layout of it.
On a mostly unrelated note, here’s a pic I took today, just checking out the layout of some stuff that I have built.
Yeah, I just used a jigsaw with metal blades. No water required. I don’t own a scroll saw, so you do with whatcha got, I guess. Keep it up. Halloween will sneak up on you, again if your not paying attention.
trying to track down metal suppliers per some other users advice regarding the MOBO. Plugging away at little things in the mean time.
Realized I had made the “Hole” for the PPD too large, had to mock it up and fill in with bondo.
Repair worked fairly well, dificult to tell after it was all cleaned up.
PVC rings cut and epoxied for EDA discs. These will be filled in with bondo later.
Booster frame with no embellishments.
Cut the fiber board with the brick pattern down to the size of the three strips that run across the booster frame.
Sanded the fiber board down to slim strips to glue the pattern onto the frame (DO NOT TRY THIS AND/OR WATCH YOUR FINGERS)
Mocking it up with the brick strips
Sanded sides down the “15 degrees” on the belt sander
mocked it up with the pencils
