2 part tute on painting Cyan's Stands

Just like it says in the title, a two part tutorial on how to paint the GB1 and GB2 Stands I’m making. Part 1 will be how I paint the Stands. Part 2 will be how the rest of you will most likely paint them.

I’ll use 4 Stands to show the progression. I start out by cleaning the Stands with “Westley’s Bleche-Wite” whitewall/blackwall tire cleaner. This removes any release oils from the resin and ensures the paint will stick. I rince them off and let them set for an hour untill dry.

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I then spray them lightly with Krylon Flat Black. I give them 2 or 3 coats making sure I get the sides as well as the face of the stands

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I then start with Citadel Blood Red and paint the “No” symbol. I work from the outer edges inward and do not apply the paint too thickly.

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I keep applying light coats untill the paint builds up to a solid color.

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I then repeat the process using Citadel Skull White for the Ghost.

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I build up the White until it too is nice and solid.

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I then use Citadel Chaos Black to touch up any unwanted Red or White blotches on the black background. Once dry I gave them 2 light coats of Rustoleum Clear Acrylic Flat to seal the paint. When the last clear spray coat is dry, they are ready for figures.

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Part 2 will be a faster ( timewise) way to get the same results.

Awesome, thanks for the paint guide Cyan.

Why not go for a mid-tone gray primer base coat? It would require fewer coats of red and white to establish a solid color of each, and the black would take two coats, at most.

how about. give them a coat of krylon white let dry. Then put a piece of masking tape over the base and use a exactor nife to cut the red areas out, then give a quick coat of a red krylon paint. then re mask and cut the masking so the backround is no longer covered, then spray a coat of kylon black. I paint and customize cars as a hobby, so taping is second nature for me.

Hey Ty,

Nothing wrong with doing it that way. I just prefer not having to paint the Black inside the “grooves” as that can get tedious by about the 3rd or 4th stand and it’s easier to touch up the Black rather than the Red and White. :slight_smile:

Hey Weiz,

And now that I know this, I expect some spectacular paint job pictures from you. :wink: But what is second nature for you is like doing chinese algebra to the majority of fine people in this community.

Part two will be the easiest way to get a beautifully painted set of Stands.

nice job you did!

Thanks! :wink:

I should have part 2 done tonight. It will show how to do the standard Red, White and Black version. But that’s not the only thing you can do with these.

For Joeghostbusters Rookie figure, I made a decal using the Video Game version and applied that to the Stand. It was a little too small and I ended up cutting it into sections and painting in the missing parts.

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The other variation I’ve done thus far is the Beaten Metal Stand for the Ripped Ray figure. sprayed it with Rust-oleum Hammered Silver paint. I brushed the outline with Citadel Chaos Black and burushe the NO sign with Tamiya Clear Red paint so the hammered effect shows through.

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Here is part 2. It is the fastest way to paint the Stands using the cheapest items possible. Most of you do not have all the brushes and assorted tools I have kicking around my work desk, nor do you wish to spend $4.99 a bottle for Citadel paint (even though it is the best paint you could use for the job), so I’ll chuck all that and start from scratch.

First let’s look at the regular items I had laying around the house. Dish washing soap, an old food container, (a brown paper bag, a pencil, scissors, shown in next picture) and my favorite toothbrush.

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Stuff I purchased is as follows. From the Dollar Store I got a can of Flat Black spray paint and a package of mixed nail files. From Michaels I purchased the White, Red and Black acrylic paint ( about 59 cents a bottle) a small sponge brush ( about 39 cents) and a can of Clear Gloss ( or Flat ) acrylic spray paint ( about $6.99 it’s the most expensive item but important - don’t cheap out on this item as it is the most important thing you need).

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First thing to do is cut a sheet out of the paper bag and place it over top of your Stand. Push it down so the peg pokes through.

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Take the pencil and rub it sideways across the top of the paper, making an outline of the stand face on the sheet.

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Put that aside and give your Stands a good scrubbing in soapy water. Use the toothbrush to get in the creases. Rinse them off and let dry.

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While they are drying, cut out the No Ghost portions outlined on the paper bag sheet. This will become a painting mask later.

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When the Stands are dry, spray them with the Flat Black paint. A few light coats until covered. Once dry, use a course grit nail file to sand away the Black paint from the raised portion of the Stand.

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Once the Black paint is gone use the next finer grit nail file to smooth any gouges in the surface. When done it should look like a Black and White drawing.

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Give the Stands another washing to get rid of any excess resin dust and dry them off

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Now I’ll start to paint. I’ll use the White first. I’d like to call this “Painting with a Sledge Hammer” as the brush used is way too big for the job at hand. :smiley:

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Don’t soak the sponge brush. Only use a drop of paint at a time and apply it to the side of the brush.

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Daub off any extra on a left over piece of the bag. You want the brush moist, not dripping paint.

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Daub, don’t brush. Go over any dark spots first. Let dry and then do the entire face of the Stand with White. The idea is to paint only the surface and leave the Black outline. That is why you don’t want to load up the brush so it’s dripping paint. 2 light coats would be better than one heavy coat of paint.

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Once the White paint has dried, I’m ready for the Red. Place the brown bag paper cut out over the White Ghost section to keep it from excess Red paint.

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Using the other side of the Brush, I do the Red the same way, a drop at a time.

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Again, daub the paint, do not brush. The paper mask should keep the Ghost White.

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Work slowly around the “No” section, moving the mask if necessary to keep the Ghost clean.

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Let dry and then repeat until the Red is nice and solid looking.

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Although I tried to be careful, some small splotches of Red did get on the Ghost. I’ll take the Brush and cut a small sliver off the back to make a touch up brush.

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The small sliver of brush can be loaded up with paint to spot touch up.

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I’ll rinse the sliver out and use it to touch up the Black around the edges.

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I’ll let the Stand set overnight and then spray it with the Clear Acrylic tomorrow, when I’ll wrap this up..

With some warmer temps and bright sunshine in the forecast, I took the Stand outside and gave it 2 coats of Krylon Crystal Clear to seal the colors so they don’t scratch off easily.

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Now that it’s done, I’ve relegated it to my Vinz figure. A strange thing is that the hole in his Right shoe is smaller than the Left, I had to turn the Stand around to get him to use it. I’ll be drilling out his right shoe later on today so I can have him match the other figures.

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I’ve given 2 extreme ways to paint up your Stands. Hopefully you can come up with a way that is a little of both. Go buy some small paint brushes or use some Painters Tape instead of the brown paper. Maybe just use Spray Paint. Whatever you do, the real idea is to have some fun while you do it.

Please leave comments if you have found this useful.

CaptCyan -aka -Steve

Great tutes Capt and I’m loving these bases. Really looking forward to the RGB one :wink: You could also try P3 paints from Privateer Press. They’ve got great pigment even over black.

Hey Spiff!

Thanks!

Actually I did take your advice and purchase some of P3’s colors and they do work as nice as Citadel. I used Brass Balls (that’s the color’s name, really) to do the Ion Arm on Ripped Ray. You can’t have too many metallic colors. :wink:

You might also want to look at Reaper Paints, Mereel uses these and they are also on par with Citadel. I get them here:

http://www.miniature-giant.com/home.php?xid=4cd18bd1607ff7e73503441c01f319be

They also have a cool color matching system on their home site here:

http://www.reapermini.com/PowerPalette/

There’s lots of good stuff out there.

capt, liquid masking tape, you just apply it to the areas you dont want painted, then peal it off

Hey Weiz!

Para -Film work great too, and it stretches over compound curves.

You are the car dude, what do you think it would cost to get a set chromed? :-o

honestly? probably not much, want me to get you a price?

Just for funzies, yeah! A reflective chrome stand would be really cool.