Thanks for the comments guys, I’m glad this is helping people to realize this isn’t as difficult as some would think. Believe it or not, I’m actually looking forward to doing this step again on my next pack!
Colin, thanks for the correction, the changes have been made. When I first wrote this tutorial, it was posted in thor2015’s “V71 Mark X Assembly” thread but I then decided to also give it’s own thread so as to be sure it wouldn’t be missed . . .the same reason I didn’t post it in the tutorials section, this forum is the most frequented when looking for this kind of info. Of course the mods can move this or do whatever they wish however, I would like to request that the thread be kept open so as people can ask questions and it can be an open and intelligent discussion.
Agreed, sticky but not locked would be best. Too many tutorial posts tend to get buried and new people can’t always find them.
On another note, I mentioned before that i would be offering up mounting kits to go along with my motherboards and I will make them available tomorrow, the aluminum angle is being cut now and I got the rivets and bolts today. I will post a for sale thread and put them on my website. Thanks for doing the tutorial Vince
A tutorial on that would be helpful to some but it’s not really an issue for most. The biggest problems that arise with attaching an ALICE pack frame to the mobo are where to make the 3rd mounting point and what kind of spacers to use.
There were three mounting points where the alice pack was connected to the mobo. The 2 rectangular slots in the bottom (Irricanian’s mobos are pre-drilled for these) and a 3rd one that needs to be drilled about 3 inches up from the middle crossmember, right before the vertical support bar begins to curve inward. 1/2" spacers were used between the frame and mobo on all mounting points. The position of the 3rd mounting point can be easily seen here:
Vinny, I decided to mount my shell yesterday using your tutorial. It worked flawlessly and very clean!!! I also posted a few tips on my WIP thread as a “companion” to your guide. I didn’t feel I should post them here 'cause don’t want to hijack your thread.
Thanks a lot for your tutorial! I’m in debt with ya!
Granted you don’t have much thread in a piece 1/8" thick but as long as it’s tapped correctly and you don’t cross thread it shouldn’t be a problem but I can see where the clip on speed nuts would be beneficial if you’re going to be taking your shell on and off repeatedly. Finding the correct clip with the 1/4-20 thread (steel thread) and the right length to get it centered on your bracket might take a bit of searching but i’m sure its doable.
Great idea to add additional threads to the L brackets.
I was thinking of using JB Weld to “carefully” attach nuts to the back of each bracket. The nut would be fastened to the inside of the pack / bracket. As long as one is careful not to get JBW on the threads, the shell could be securely attached and taken apart if / when needed.
That’s the plan when I get my next package from MMM.
The main part you need to worry about being correct is the screw head. Not the thread..
Also, you don’t need to find a clip long enough since they are basically all similar in depth, you drill the hole through the bracket, and cut the excess off in order to fit the clip.
Or you could just do it like I described in this thread, saving you trouble.
I tapped my brackets with a 1/4" tap and while it only cut a few threads it still plenty strong as long as you don’t tighten the shit out of the screw and strip the soft aluminum threads.
As for the JB-welded nuts, thats a good idea and it’s strong but could break. Thats what I did on my last pack and the whole reason for drilling and cutting threads this time around was to avoid having to do that again.
actually Chris, they are 1/4" shaft collars I got at Ace Hardware.
1/2" seems to be accurate for GB2, I do not know what GB1 used nor what the measurement is supposed to be, so I went with 1/4" because I dont like to have a big space between my back and the pack.
