So…I’m running around crazily trying to build a Slime Blower…and I’m running into a lot of issues…and questions:
So…first question, has anyone made any resin kits or damn accurate/near perfect store bought tanks? I got the cardboard tube from lowes…they had 8" and 10" sized…and they’ve been both too big, or two small for my sized bowls that I found, that were perfect-ish btw. Still in the process of building, and it will make do for a quick blower fix. But I want something that I can look at, and be like Woah! that’s a tank.
So, I’m trying to read the three different types of plans on this site for measurements, and parts references. There is hardly any kind of info/detail in any of those…yet I see people with slime blowers… So has anyone semi perfected the art yet? Are there plans I don’t know about? If I can get started with the tanks again…and get perfect sized ones that I may just have to bondo the seams…as opposed to trying to stretch and make a 9-1/2 inch bowl work in a 10 inch hole…that would be great. Anyone got any good hints and tips?
Trust me…I sat here for like three hours scouring the site for anyone that had really good slime blower instructions…no luck. These are the only parts I really need help in getting together:
Slime Tanks
Motherboard
That’s really it. The rest of it I think came out pretty decent that I’ve made so far. The smaller tanks work out…I just need the really big middle one to work out…and I’m having bad luck. Has anyone created a custom cut motherboard out of aluminum or anything yet? And where can I get the best sized tube and tube ends…because this is kicking my butt. Glad it’s not for me…I got the proton pack…simple and easy…with a billion references. 
Thanks for the help.
i think i saw someone use a cardboard tube for the center tank. i’m pretty sure they used a can of spray foam and a bowl or two and made the end caps that way. afterwords they just covered the ends caps and tube in bondo, sanded it all up, primed it and panted it. spraying it a clear coat finish would give it that nice shinny metal look if thats the kinda look you wanted to go for. as for the mother board, most of what i have seen is ppl made it out of wood using L brackets to hold it together and then mounting it to an alice frame. just keep looking at all the slime blower builds on here and they should help you. in my opinion the main tank and side tanks look to be the hardest part of building a slime blower. you can always post a few questions on other ppl’s slime blower builds and i’m sure they would have no problem answering any questions you might have. hope things work out for you on this build.
There is no motherboard on the actual slime blower, the tanks are mounted with a series of 1/8" aluminum straps rivetted to the Alice frame. The main tank is mounted with a 4" wide x 1/8" x approx 15" long strap
As for the tanks, Mikenelson was doing a run of rotocast tanks but you can always use the sonotube route or a piece of PVC pipe if you can find it.
Well I sort of started on a build at the moment…I’m semi happy with it. My blower gun portion is turning out half decent. It’s kinda hard with a lack of major power tools, stuck with a dremel and a hacksaw. lol And apparently I can’t hacksaw straight. So I’ll post photos of the build as I finish parts…it’s moderately pitiful. 
At least in my eyes…but it’ll do for a last minute build for a con that is coming up. Thanks for the help, and Irricanian, I’ll probably be placing an order over the weekend for blower parts…since you’ve done well with providing all my Proton Pack parts I’d ever need. lol
So… Resurrecting this, as I need assistance, yet again. So, this is probably more of a electrical question…But I want to control both the headlamps on the tanks with one switch, and one battery source. They are some cheap-o headlamps from a hardware store in town, and are amazing…also very bright. Each light runs off of 3 AA batteries. So, my question…do I grab a 3 battery pack from the Radio shack? Or a 6? Or something totally different altogether? I don’t want to have to reach up to the shoulder and click on each headlamp individually, that’s stupid.
Second question. Getting these boxes built. (The metal looking ones under the tanks and stuff) What was everyone’s best method of tackling this? I was gonna stalk the local Aluminum watercutting shop, and see if they will build them for me. Not sure of the costs, etc. I will also use them to build the brackets and maybe a motherboard-esque mount to put the tanks on. Those are pretty much the only questions I have…as my build is going suprisingly well, and I’ll post some progress pictures to my profile.
I highly recommend the pump boxes from irrican’s run. I believe he has a few extra or a set on ebay.
I am beyond 100% sure It will be cheaper than going to a shop and asking them to do a one-off. By the time you pay for set up fees, shop costs etc., the per unit cost is just too prohibitive. It’s the main reason people do parts runs in the first place to amortize the costs by using a larger pool of buyers. Otherwise everyone would just go to their handy dandy aluminum fabricators on their own for what they need. 
The motherboard and the straps on the alice pack are simple aluminum bar stock. There’s no need to farm that out to a shop. Just pick up the appropriate width aluminum stock from either a local metal supply company (almost always cheaper) or an online place (more expensive).
I paid about $10 for the 4" aluminum strip and the 1.5" x .125" aluminum bar stock through a local metal supply company. You can’t beat that. Sometimes accurate and cheap are mutually exclusive when it comes to this hobby, but more often than not you can have both if you do your homework.
Goff
I saw there were some still floating around. It’s just a pain in the butt ordering things at the moment since I’m due to move soon, but I’ll keep on top of MMM’s page for the parts. I think if the parts were all readily available, we would have more slime blowers. Plus, someone needs to feel dedicated to some plans and really work at measuring out the actual movie kit…wherever that is displayed.
Thanks for the info…I’ll try to make some of that aluminum bar stuff work…
Since I didn’t get an answer and I’d rather not blow up two lights, if I have two lights that each use 3AA batteries to power…how do I get those two lights combigned into one switch, running off one source of battery? Is it still only 3AA batteries used? Or do I use larger amounts?
Wire them in parallel from one 4.5V source. Radio shack has battery holders that hold 3 AAA for two bucks or so.
Here’s a link showing the difference between wiring in a series versus parallel.
Wire your lamps up in parallel. Wire your switch up on the + end between the battery holder and the first light. That should do the trick. I’m no electronics expert (far from it), so if I’m woefully wrong someone correct me here.
Goff
I just kind of wing it myself…and assume I know what sounds right, until I blow it up. (I.E. My soundchip) So any second opinion is appreciated. I’ll check out the diagram, make heads or tails of it…and let you know what goes. Thanks for the help!
For lights it’s not as big an issue as chips. You should be able to run both lights off of one set of batteries but the life will be greatly reduced. Running 2 sets of batteries in parallel or else high mAh batteries is the way to go.