Depends on how many mAh your battery holds. 9800 I think is around 12 hours.
So if I have the battery turned on and plugged into the charger and the red light is on and the green light is off on the charger, does that mean that the battery is fully charged? Or is it fully charged when the both the red and green lights turn on? I saw some instructions somewhere online that stated that the red is always on and when the green light turns on that the battery is fully charged. Can anyone confirm?
Correct, the wall wart’s red light will always be on when pluged in and the Green light will only be on when the battery is charging.
My 12v 9800mah version can take up to 2 days to charge depending on how much I’ve used it.
Cool, and your green light goes off to indicate the battery is fully charged. Awesome.
Light is green.. battery is clean?
I’ve found that turning the batt on and charging for 12 hours gives it more juice than the batt being off and plugged in.
That would probably be because it only charges when the battery is on.
Thanks for clarifying everything guys.
This was a great thread as I have my first 12v Lithium blue brick on order and until now no idea how its supposed to charge. I’ve been using 8 of the rechargeable “D” cells which are only 1.2v not the true 1.5v each. I’m hoping this lasts longer and weighs less or at least lasts longer.
I’ll piggy back on this thread to see if I can get an answer before starting a fresh one…
I just bought a blue brick from the GBFans shop, and I’ll be getting the sound board when it’s available. How are you guys adapting the battery output plug to work with the sound board battery input ports? Is there an all in one connector with wires pre-attached that I can get, or is there some DIY involved? If DIY, can I get a brief explanation, as I’m an electronics moron.
There’s going to be a bit of DIY involved but there’s a lot of info here about it. Alex Newborn’s thread has a wealth of information about connectors and mounting the battery (among other things). Details start around the middle of page 2 and here’s a post on page 6 about specific connectors.
There is a small amount of DIY involved if you want to rig it up to the sound board without directly cutting any wires on the battery. You can get all the parts from a local Radioshack or Frys electronics to get the job done. If you know how to solder then this will be easy, but they also make a soldering glue which may be more your speed. All you need is two bits of wire and this part here… http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102599. First, attach a wire to the middle post for your positive and then another wire to either of the other two posts for your negative. After you have attached the two wires the next thing would be to plug it in to the power output on the battery and attach the open ends of the wires to the positive and negative terminals on the soundboard. Hope that helps.
This is exactly what I needed. Thanks!
I was actually reading Alex’s thread last night, just wanted to see if there were other options.
You can also probably get bare wire pigtails from Amazon. I believe they would be under CCTV wire connectors or something similar.
i have another question to that batterypack.
it has two cables, one for the power and one for charging.
Is it possiple with an adapter to charge the batterypack with the powercable too? i want to build in the batterypack and want to use only one cable for both. Charge and power…
there sure is!
just modify the cables out to minimize voltage leak, and hook it up to a dpdt switch.
what should i modify at the cables?
so your drawing means: i can use the same cables for output and for input (Charge?)
No, just open up the battery and cut them, the switch and the led out entirely and solder new leads on to the battery.
what means leads?
so it will not work only build an adapter and charge with the outputcable?
If its like the battery i have if you leave the battery switch truned on, there is a LED light so that will always on draining the battery’s power. if you remove that and add the leads that has been suggested you can leave the switch on the battery on without worrying about it going flat and you just turn it on with the other switch described