Hello! This is my new build of ecto goggles based off of the GBFans parts. The battery compartment is genuine, however. In order to get it to fit, I had to sand it down a little, but it didn’t take much and now it fits perfectly.
I just ordered the paint for the face plate, but other than that, these are pretty much ready to bust some heads! In a spiritual sense, of course
Here are a couple more shots of my goggles. I need to drill the hole on/off dial. Like the battery compartment, I have a real part knob and internals for it.
Looking good. I’m still trying to figure out the face pad on mine. Did you use the snaps, or just glue yours on?
I really can’t say enough good things about the reproduction goggle parts from the GBfans store. I mean, just LOOK at em!
Mine’s using the GBfans battery cover. The on/off switch is an original from eBay. (The two side knobs are printed and waiting for paint)
Those look great!!! For my face pad, I had read a while back that the creen used prop used some foam. I had extra uncut neoprene from my girlfriend’s proton pack, so I rough cut it (being inspired by the rougg cut nature of the same neoprene on the proton packs) then stuck it on using double-sided stitch tape. Since the tape is designed to hold fabric together, it’s super strong.
I also got black elastic strapping and I’m going to try to swap out the strap for something more screen accurate. Good luck on your build!
Ok, here’s a little update on my straps! From what I can see, in the movie, the straps were black elastic straps, not the stock PVS-5 straps. And while I like those straps very much, I’m big on screen accuracy so I got some higg quality elastic and a buttons. I got everything installed and I think it looks pretty great! It isn’t 100% accuracte, as the top strap should be held on with a d-ring, but it’s a lot closer now!
Hello - what size screws did you use to attach the On/Off knob on the bottom?
Ok, got a couple more updates. On the screen used prop, there’s an extra nickle snap on the side. I drilled out the existing hole and I added the snap. I also drilled a small hole for the on/off knob and got the thinnest screw I could find for the knob then I put a bolt, a few washers inside then below, I put another washer and bolt so it’s all sandwiched together.
I also received my Tamiya paint today for the aluminum plate! But it’s way too cold out, so I’m going to have to wait a bit. But then… it’s done!
Don’t want to piss on your chips, but the stock power knob wasn’t used on them it seems.
Do you happen to know what was used if it wasn’t the stock knob? I’m going for the end of movie look, where there was a visible knob (and the rubber strip connecting the battery cover to the frames) on the goggles.
Since it’s just held on with a screw, if I ever wanted, I can take it off, too. I like having options.
User Dan AKA has used a 3/4" grey thumb knob on his current build, which seems to match the screenshots. If you’re on Facebook have a look at the Spengler’s 1984 Work Bench group for more info and pics. He’s done an LA and a NY version of the goggles, as they differed a fair bit.
I was looking a the GB2 goggles when I decided to go with an original power knob. (I think that’s what it is, if not it’s close)
And I did the GB1 lens kits from GBfans because they look great.
All my stuff is idealized. If there’s a detail I like it’s going on. My hero pack even has Makita batteries on the back, just cause I like the look.
I also sprung for ectotainment’s replica face pad on Ebay, and it was worth it. It’s a little thicker than The GB1 googles, but it looks and fits great, and I don’t mind having it on my head all day.
Awesome! I’m glad you like the face cushion! They’re definitely more comfortable than the original milspec ones. I tested out a bunch of different materials to get the right balance. Cheers!
Little late but last weekend was pretty nice here in MA, so I finally got to painting the face plate.
I think it looks really nice. I’ve been looking into different thumb dials and other accuracy upgrades but I think it’s a good start!
So after sitting with my goggles for a while, I decided to make some modifications to move them closer to screen accurate. A while back, I drilled small holes into the frames where the original night vision goggles had screws. That stressed me out a bit but the ABS drills really well and it was easy once I had the spaces all measured out. After a signiciant passage of time, I got ahold of some Mack’s Factory dry rub transfers, which were really good. One small caveat to that, though, is I miss when the MF dry rubs were all inclusive. The first set I got back in 2018-19 had enough for like, two proton packs (including Clippard 3814-1 tubing transfer), a trap, and goggles. Now, the sets are pretty limited, but oh well.
Then I heavily modified the straps. After poking around on Egon’s 1984 Workbench, I got a little more info on straps. I’m not convinced my straps are accurate but they work best for me. I tried Nylon straps but the knot didn’t stay and they ended up too loose, so I went back to elastic strap. The big step was drilling out the included snap on the top of the housing to make way for the d-ring, but after some deep soul searching I decided, “screw it. What’s the worst that happens?” and went ahead. I think they look great.
Finally, I recognize the power knob is incorrect but I can’t find a reliable source for what was actually there. I know a lot of people think it was a thumb screw but even that, there is disagreement on. If anyone knows a good solution, please share a link. As of right now, I’m calling these good until I can find a solid piece of reference for the knob.
