Fibreglass Shell Problem!

Equipment Proton Packs
1

Hi,

I start doing some work again on my Alkaline Shell after a longer break. When I become the Shell it feeled a bit tacky, You couldn’t grab at the Shell without leaving an Fingerprint to it. I mailed my Problem to John and He answered directly, that it could be that there are some small Pockets in the Shell where the Black colour he colours the Shells hasn’t realy bound with the Resin and after sanding and Primering it should be gone. John is a very nice Guy and I was very grateful for his Help! After all that Steps it looked that the Problem was gone! I drilled all the holes made some filling work sanding and washing it again and I laid it away for some Time. After my break of working on the Pack Shell I toke it back from storage and began to spray some Flat Black Paint on it. After drying, the Black Paint began to crack on some Places on the Pack. When I primered it there was nothing but with the Black paint it began to crack on some Places. The Primer and Black Paint are from the same Brand so it shouldn’t be the Paint??? I’m very frustrated now, because I spent a lot of work in the Shell. Maybe someone can help me please? What can I do? Any Tipp would be much appreciated!

kind regards

Manuel

2

I didn’t have this problem with my alkaline shell, but it did happen occasionally with my MMM gun kit. I found that it always happened when I either didn’t sand/ clean the area I was painting well enough. It also happened if a sprayed primer over an area I already painted with the black paint… and make sure the primer is thoroughly dry and slightly sanded as well before applying the black paint. Hope this helps…

3

How cold is it there in Niederaichbach? It could be that the paint hasn’t had time to dry properly in storage.

The can of spray paint should say the ideal temperature for painting/drying.

I am in Fargo, ND. The shop I am using is heated, but it is still cold. My fiberglass shell is going to take longer to completely dry due to the cold.

4

So you primed it, put it in storage for sometime, then took it out and flat black painted it?

You should of cleaned it better after storage or your just spraying too much paint at once.

5

usually if you dont let first coat of paint dry before your next you’ll get crackly paint. sand it off and wait a while between coats.

6

Too much paint sounds like the problem indeed. Try to do light coats. Ea: first coat barely noticeable, wait 15 mins second coat little darker, repeat as many times needed until fully covered. You could try doing very light sanding in-between the coats when it is starting to look good just make sure to clean it with a damp cloth.

Sent from my Motorola MT500 using Ghostbuster Fans on Android :cool:

7

I have a shell question if no one minds adding to this thread- I have one the is bowed in the middle, can it be unbowed?

I was thinking heat and some weights, thoughts?

8

My shell bowed a little bit with being in the cold then the hot. When I attached it the MOBO it helped straighten it up.

9

How bad is the bowing? You might be better off filling it with bondo or something.

10

Pretty bad, the center of the cyclotron and the EDA disc area are bowed in.

I was thinking about a space heater and some heavy weights and see if it sorts itself out.

I’ll take a picture later..

11

Hope you can see the problem in the pictures, shell was perchased as cracked defect.

I’m just wondering if it can be unwarped somewhat or just leave it be and let my kid wear it.

The whole shell is sort of “sunk in” towards the center.

12

Mine looked the same. I didn’t do anything in fear that I would mess it up more. Now I can’t stop staring at it. Kinda ■■■■■■ because everything came out perfect.

13

The cyclotron is supposed to be bowed inward in the middle, this is exactly how it is on the screen-used packs as well. As for the inward bowing between the booster tube area and the crank/gearbox, mine is exactly like that, and it’s also a cracked reject (cracked between the two areas). It doesn’t bother me at all, considering the screen-used packs were wonky as hell too.

14

Stunt pack maybe or GB2.

I’ll be working on fixing it, looks like hell IMHO.

15

I haven’t seen a single one of Vince’s bigi shells have a warped cyclotron. I highly doubt my shell was designed to look warped for screen accuracy.

16

I suspect the former owner in my case left it in a shed too long in the hot California sun.

The heat just slowly baked it till it sagged.

I’m going to set up some blocks with a space heater and apply pressure in strategic spots and carefully move everything back into place if possible. If all goes well, I will then brace certain areas with fiberglass and braces to make sure it doesn’t go back.

17

I have a shell like this that had the exact same warpage. What Jack and myself did was take a 6" long piece of 2x4, placed it underneath the shell then one of use took a heat gun and heated the shell while the other pressed down on the shell to fix the bow. We didn’t get rid of it but we definitely made it better then it was.

18

I don’t understand how/ why people toss these things into storage, whether it be hot or cold and expect them not to be affected? Maybe this can become a lesson to people…

19

I was thinking of doing this with the shell I have. Its not terrible though so I may just turn a blind eye… but it will more than likely bug the hell outa me so.. would a piece of wood cut in a disc about the same diameter help or be overkill? What I mean is did the 2 x 4 apply enough even pressure.. I guess.. :slight_smile:

I’ve only worked with vac-formed shells so excuse my noobness in this area.

Thanks!