funtional pke meter

Okay, I think I might start working on a set of instructions to create a device that will allow you to monitor ionization levels. It’s VERY simple to construct, all you need is to solder 2 connections. The tools required would be very simple as well, maybe a couple screwdrivers, wirecutters, and soldering iron.

The device is two simple household items, available at most stores… attatched together.

I haven’t put it through any benchmark tests or anything because I didn’t have a source of ionization to test it against. But it’s operation is simple and would allow you to monitor the ionization levels in the room. I think you could also adapt it to fit into a pke shell, or maybe something very similar.

I’m just trying to see if this would be something people would like to try before I put in all the time on it. The cool thing about this is the cost. Only about 20-30 dollars.

If people would be interested I could maybe put together a little toutorial. Just let me know.

I’m very interested, I want to turn my future pke into something that can be used like an emf

I would also be very interested in your ideas to make it a working tool as I am building a Pke meter at the moment. :slight_smile:

well, I have some friends in town this week so I will try to post some info next week.

Okay, I feel bad about teasing and bailing… but I haven’t been on the board in quite some time. But I figured I would come and explain my contraption… and try to post some pictures of it within the next few days.

This is a very simple thing to construct and it builds off of two commonly used and available items. As I said before it measures ionization levels in the air… and if we all remember the wise words of Mr. Ray Stanz… “If the ionization rate of all ectoplasmic entities is constant, WE COULD REALLY BUST SOME HEADS!” Or something like that.

So years ago back when I was in highschool I started doing some research. I found out that there is a device that EVERYONE has in their home… or should have, that has a connection to ion levels in the air. It’s a smoke detector!

Yes that’s right, a simple 10.00 dollar smoke alarm, the little round thing that beeps at you whenever the battery goes dead!

The way they work is there is a very very tiny chip of radioactive isotope inside the smoke alarm. If you look at the little plastic cage inside, the one with the silver top, it should have a radioactive warning on it.

STOP - let me just say that according to what I read on the How Stuff Works website… they claim the level of radiation comming out of this thing is so small it can’t hurt you… they say the radiation couldn’t even pass through a sheet of paper so your skin is enough to block it. But let me just say that I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY ADVERSE REACTIONS OF SIDE EFFECTS OF PLAYING WITH THE INSIDES OF A SMOKE ALARM! YOUR CHOICE TO BUILD THIS PROJECT IS COMPLETELY YOURS. I ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY.

So if you grow another arm later, don’t come looking for trouble! :smiley:

Anyway, the smoke alarm passes a small electrical current over this chip of isotope and monitors the voltage across the circuit. Whenever smoke makes it’s way into the detector and hits the chip… (and this is the important part) THE IONS IN THE SMOKE CAUSE A DROP IN THE VOLTAGE!

So whenever these ions are present, the voltage drops and the alarm sounds.

SO WHAT DOES THIS MEAN FOR GHOSTS?

I’m glad you asked. All you have to do is buy a small digital multimeter from radioshack or home depot or the like. Cut the probes off of the end and solder them to the appropriate spot on the smoke alarm. This will give you a readout of the voltage across the chip.

So whenever ions are present… such as those from ghosts… you should be able to watch the voltage drop on the multi-meter.

The reason I suggest a digital one is that the amount of voltage we’re talking about here is extremely tiny… so with an analog meter(the one with the needle) you might not see much movement. But the digitial ones will give you hundreths or thousands of a volt so you can really watch this baby change readings.

I will try to get some pictures soon once I dig my old ghost detector out of whatever box it’s in… to show where I soldered my connections.

Also let me say that since I’ve never actually SEEN a ghost I can’t tell you “oh this thing worls!” But I did take it up to what was supposedly one of the most haunted places near my hometown in North Carolina, and I went to the place where the ghost is supposed to frequent. I walked all around with my detector and watched the readings go up and down as I walked toward and away from the spot she supposedly killed herself in. So, not concrete but I think it will be interesting to see if any of you build one of these, if you have any stories you can share.

So even though this is VERY homebrew, and it isn’t proven in a lab… I think the theories are solid, and it’s not that expensive to build so why not try it?!

And please feel free to go to Howstuffworks.com and check out my theories for yourself.

Just a few more things…

When buying your smoke detector be sure you don’t get one that uses a photoresistor… be sure you get the cheapy one with the little black plastic cage inside it. And it SHOULD have some sort of radiation warning on the inside of it.

Also, when I built mine I cut the speaker off the circuit board… I don’t need it and I didn’t want it accidentally going off… those things are loud!

Another point… since the ions actually have to make contact with the sensor, I took the little plastic cage off of mine… to make it more sensitive.

And if you’re planning on putting this into a iona shoe polisher shell keep in mind you will have to have a way for the ions to get inside and touch the sensor. My suggestion would be to NOT shave off the round part on the bottom. Leave it on and just put a bunch of holes in it or something so the ghost bits can hit the sensor!

Well there it is folks… my own theory of a ghost detector. Feel free to ask any questions, if I didn’t explain things properly. I had considered trying to sell this but I figured it’d be better as free knowlege to a very cool propmaknig community. Now if anyone wants to shower me with gifts to show their gratitude… I of course cannot object… (hint hint… a iona shell would be really cool!)

But really… I expect NOTHING. Other than maybe a little credit… and some cool stories of how you use your detector!

And I really will TRY to get pics soon so you know where to attatch everything.

So waddya think?

(Chancellor Palpatine voice) DO IT! I COMMAND YOU!

And post pics too.

And if you DO happen to grow another arm, lets talk, I’m sure the morning show circuit will pay us a bundle :twisted:

If ions set this thing off, then it should be going off constantly. everything with any form of electric charge should generate some kind of ioninc charge- smoke, people, etc. I’m prolly wrong, but the more sensitive, the more it’s gonna sound off with a reading…

You did say use a digital multimeter with a $10.00 smoke detector, right?

Thanks for the advice!

here in italy there’s many haunted places…please post pics soon so i can make REAL pke meter for my italian REAL Gostbusters team

How much should a digital multimeter run at a local Radioshack or Home Depot?

Sounds a good idea :smiley: Lets see some pics and plans if possible.

WERE READY TO BELIEVE YOU!

Sorry I haven’t seen this part of the board in a while. But to try to answer a few questions…

About ions and it being “set off” all the time.

What this meter gives you is a constant reading of the voltage across the chip. As the ion level INCREASES the voltage drops. The lower the number, the higher the amount of ions. Basically you need to do a base reading before you go into the room, that way you have something to compare against.

As far as pictures, I can’t seem to find mine right now but I’ll keep looking!

The multi-meter, somewhere between 10 and 30 dollars for a pretty basic one.

I’m glad to see everyone is so interested in this idea! I’ll try to find the thing so I can take some more pictures of it!

Thanks again.

i’m waiting for pics!! in the meantime i’ll make research on haunted places here in italy (near Verona, city of romeo and juliet).

Let me say that you’re a GENIUS!! if we think about paranormal with scientific base we can discover many many many kind of devices that found ghost. and then see and, maybe?, capture them.

sorry for my english!

guys and gouls and gals, I’m sorry I still haven’t posted pics. In the mess of moving from North Carolina to Florida I still can’t find my old detector! I’ll double my efforts but in the meantime let me say that if you look at the backside of the circuit board on the smoke detector it should be obvious where the two connections are. They would be the only two points on the board that have solder on them, directly under the sensor. I’m not sure if that helps or not but I’ll keep digging.

I might actually go buy a new smoke alarm and multimeter and document the making of a new one. If I do, would someone be interested in buying it?! Either way I might still do it… I hate to open my mouth and then not be able to deliver. :smiley:

Thanks to everyone who has read this post and is interested in trying something new!

Later

:oops:

Deja vu! The Matrix is real! :lol:

I’m still waiting for pics…when you post them i 'll be happy!

Could you post a pic of a digital multimeter to see where connection should be soldered?

I purchased the multimeter ($15 @ WalMart) and the smoke detector ($5 @ WalMart) and started this little adventure this last Saturday evening… Easy enough to construct - but the readouts fluctuate so rapidly - unless I’m currently living w/ an entire deceased cult..I’m thinking this thing doesn’t read steady. However, considering he hasn’t posted any pictures from his yet..here are a few of mine. Keep in mind, it’s not in a housing yet, and the camera used is the one on my phone.. It’s all I have right now, sorry!

Here is the multimeter I used. Easy to find, easy to use (when used for its original purpose).

Here is the top side of the card from the smoke detector. The alarm/siren portion has been removed. What you are looking at is some kind of shield over the actual sensor chip. It hasn’t been removed because of the diagram they show you on HowStuffWorks.com. I’m not sure if removing it could cause further failure to the units readouts.

And finally here is the underside of the card, where the two probe wires that came with the multimeter are fused to the card (at the only two points I could find that were DIRECTLY under the chip on the top of the board). We tested positive and negative wires on each spot before mounting them, and found that the point closest to the battery was probably the positive one / otherwise we wouldn’t get any readings at all. Hope these pictures are useful - please don’t decide against this project because I haven’t had any luck yet.. I feel that there is still much that can be done to stabilize the measurement readings, with more research and know how regarding electronics. Feel free to contact me if you have questions or suggestions!

Jhsanny…

About your ultra-sensitivity problem… I didn’t know having something EXTREMELY sensitive was a problem! :smiley: Just messin, well, kinda.

What setting are you putting the multi-meter on?

And as for your problem of readings going nuts when you giggle the wires… try what I did…

Be sure you don’t cover up the battery compartment on the back of your multi-tester but I just glued my board to the back of the meter. I also rewired the battery connection so I could move the battery to a more stable condition.

Having your board in a set location would cut down on the need to move the wires around. Then you just move the entire meter.

Also… judgin from your pictures you have missunderstood me. In the pics you posted the thing I reffer to as “the cage” is not present! The pics you posted represent the exact condition that I have my meter in. Do not try to disassemble anything any further than what you already have. The radioactive “chip” is in that thing and if you try to pry it apart, you will ruin the circuit.

Did you have any other questions? I hope I was of a little help.

The meter is set at 20. As far as the “radioactive chip” thing - that’s the reason I left it on there.. However, due to this misunderstanding, I’m almost positive this is not connected at the right point on the board. You should either draw up some kind of schematic for this little “project” or you should make another one..because no one on here apparently understands how to do this. I know we would ALL appreciate the help - and I’m going to cut my wires, remove the connections I already placed on there, and try another spot on where the “chip holder” is touching the board.