Matt, you make me want to sell many of my belongings to start a new proton pack.
Well, lets wait and see how it looks when its done. It could turn out to be a piece of shit.
Who you trying to kid? 
Yeah probably
Awesome work! I find it funny how many variations of packs we build as a community. GB1 pack, GB2 pack, Video Game pack, RGB pack, EGB Pack…etc. We got some real genius talent here among us!
Treat it like you do Jack’s stuff.
Matt me love your builds long time 
That’s a thing of beauty, Matt! I thought your pack at D*C was awesome. I can’t wait to see this one finished!
Ha ha ha! That’s a good one!
I’m not sure what you have planned for the ribbon cable but I used the guide in the tutorial section and it turned out awesome!
Last I heard he was planning something involving string, ground maple leaves and llama spit but that may have changed.
Ahh an ol’ family recipe
Well, its been a little while but I finally have something to update!
I got the majority of my parts from Umoribawar for my gun. He sent me the wrong converter piece for the front handle to fit into the gun and I’m still waiting on grips, but other then that, I got the majority of my order. So that means I get to put a gun together!
I drilled/tapped all the holes and dry fitted everything before I painted. Since the paint is still drying, here some shots of the dry fit assembly.
The gun body is from CPU64. I think I was like the second person to get one of these from him but couldn’t do anything with it because I was waiting for parts. Heatsink is from JPA35.
I went with the fully enclosed trigger box. I have to say, its a pain in the ass fitting the DPDT switches in there but damn does it look nice.
Real white arcoelectric hat lights and smaller red and clear lamps.
Gun track and discs are from my buddy TJ’s uncle who milled it for me, everything else is from Umoribawar.
So here’s the big question: anyone else with a metal gun try to fit proptronix gun kit in there? The one corner sticks out the bottom by like a 1/4". The way I got around this for my buddy’s TC resin gun was cut the corner down and cut a groove into the bottom plate. Is this how anyone with a metal gun did it as well? I’m just curious.
Once the paint is done drying and i put it all back together, I’ll take some more pictures and post them up then. Until then, thanks for looking!
looks great Matt! Ill have those brown grips ready to go in a day or two.
Well, I painted it.
Even sanding the whole gun down before I primed it, the paint peels really easily. I was using low tack masking tape for putting on the dry rub transfers and the paint still pulled up. . . So now I either have to get creative with my tape-up job to fix it or just leave it. Its not horrible how it is now.
The grip on there is also only temporary, I’m going to put brown resin grips on this sucker. Now I need to set up the electronics.
I feel your pain, man. Don’t ask why I chose to dismantle mine completely and repaint it after priming it first. I destroyed my paint job while trying to screw the nuts for the switches. The paint was chipping in 1/4" flakes. I don’t usually use primer on my aluminum parts, but that choice was really forced upon me. 
Hey Matt, I know I’m just a noob, but how much time went by between painting your gun and applying the transfers? My aluminum parts from Jason, after primer and paint, peeled super easy, even after a few hours of dry time. I let them sit for a few days and the finish was tough as nails.
Probably about 2 hours. Its very possible that is the case.
What paint did you use? I used Duracote automotive spray on the slime scoop and that paint won’t come off if I wanted it to.
Here’s my recommendation…
Wet sand the metal surface with 400 paper, rinse and let dry.. (And no, wiping it with a towel doesn’t work. Use sun light/heat)
Right before primer: Put on latex gloves and wipe surface with lacquer thinner, twice. Let air dry.
Once clean, only handle metal while wearing gloves.
Spray primer in light coats and allow flashing time between each one (2-3 minutes) reaching full coverage in about 3-4 coats.
Let dry for a few hours.
Still wearing gloves, spray black paint the same way the primer was applied. (Longer flash if using gloss/hammer paint)
Let dry for at least 24 hours. Preferably out in the hot sun light.
If using flat or BBQ paint, you can “polish” the surface with a clean towel and it will look really nice.
The main thing is keep a VERY clean surface during the process. But like jack just said, yes, stepping up to automotive paint makes a world of difference