So where do I go to get styrene sheet?

I need to figure out real quick what I’m going to do to form the edge around my spacer after I put a couple sheets pf playwood cut to the right shape togehter with 2x4’s to seperate them. Bending wood is not an option for the tight radius, plus the only thickness I can probably get is 1/4" pine, at least, that’s all they had at Home Depot.

The only real option I think I have at this point is either use sheet metal, or cut out many layers of the same size and hollow some of them out. Neither option is very appealing, but I’m leaning towards the sheet metal to reduce the weight.

So where do I get this plastic stuff? I’ve heard people say a plastic company, but I kinda doubt they any around here sell small quantities to the public. Did you just walk into some big coportation’s office and ask for one sheet of styrene?

Actually, go can. But call ahead first. It costs about $25 for a sheet of 4 x 10.

I used metal roof flashing (from Home Depot). The flashing and tin snips cost me about $8 and I’ve been using the left over flashing for other pieces too (like the gun tip).

Did you mean “you can”?

And $8 sounds better than $25. $25 for a sheet of plastic? Ouch. And I don’t know how I’d get a 10’ sheet of plastic home in my little car. :slight_smile:

They will almost certainly have it rolled up, at least for thinner gauges…

Oh, I didn’t think it bent that easily. :slight_smile:

So how did that go for you? How did you fasten it, and were there issues with getting it to be flush with the wood, and having smooth curves? I saw someone else use sheet metal for their pack and they had gaps and things around the edges, but they were just using it to make a vaccum formed shell so it didn’t matter.

I actually referenced the same article as you - I was making a mold for thermoforming. That being said, I think you can probably make a passable curve with the sheet metal.

You’ll want to take firring strips and run them around the inside edges of your spacer. If you’ve got a jig saw, let the strips poke outside the edge of your spacer -then use the jig saw to cut everything flush.

When using the sheet metal go SLOW and wear work gloves, it can be pretty sharp. Pre-drill holes in the metal and firring strips, then connect with wood screws. The secret to getting it right is to make sure the metal strip is even with the spacer on both sides, otherwise it will start to veer up/down, as you run it around the spacer (this would be the same problem with a wood or plastic strip).

Good luck!