Some Assistance with light kit, por favor

Greetings to you, the lucky finder of this Golden Ticket from ■■■■■ Wonka!

So, now that I have your attention…there is no chocolate…or a factory…just me…and confusion. Lets get to business.

So here’s the problem. Two items are the culprit. A Throwing Chicken 3.0 gun kit, and a Jupiter Electronics Light Kit.

The issue is, I have the TC kit, and I’m trying to mount the lights. The lights seem able to fit everywhere, except I’m having trouble fitting the push button “intensify” through the holes designated to run through the thrower. They are in a computer chip board, hot glued and soldered down, running from a wire, all the way to the push button, which seems to be rather well attached. I have no idea how to dismantle, or how wide I should make the holes in the gun kit, without killing either one.

Has anyone had better success than me mounting a Jupiter light kit to their TC gun kit? If so, pictures, personal message, or something? Post up here with how to do it, in case I’m not the only idiot that can’t figure simple stuff out? Thanks a bunch for the help.

Un solder the switch, match a drill bit to the threaded portion of the switch, test it on some junk wood or what ever you have laying around. Then install and re solder your wires

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That’s basically what I did. I used the jupiter kit in the last pack I sold with a tc gun

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Well, I didn’t wait for any advice…and pretty much did that. lol. I took apart the switch, and went for it. Now it’s run, and it works. BTW, I suck at soldering.So it looks like ■■■■. On the bright side, it still blinks and lights up. :stuck_out_tongue:

If you didn’t want to wait for the advice than why post the thread?

If your soldering looks bad make sure to wrap each wire with electrical tape or heat shrink tape to prevent a short.

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well, as I was waiting…I thought about how to do it…and then googled the type of button it was…looked at the ends…then cut the shrink tape stuff, and honestly, I just kinda hoped for the best. No clue what I was doing. I did cover it back up with electrical tape. I get worried when it comes to re-soldering, since I kinda wired up my own Ecto Goggles, and fudged them up… I do appreciate the help…because about halfway through I checked the post to double check, and luckily you guys said pretty much (I say pretty much, because I’m sure what I did was the hardest, most ridiculous way to do it) what I was going for.

AAAAnnndd…just like I feared. The light actually doesn’t work anymore. pats self on back So I’m going to have to get better at soldering…here we go, back to fixing it.

Hardest part is getting the part hot enough for solder to flow, but not so hot it hurts the part. Good news, that’s a switch, a little heat shouldn’t hurt it. Only needs a little solder to flow. If you are left with a big blob you did it wrong. (Most likely held the iron there a bit then touched solder to iron instead of solder to the part you are heating up.)

leds have a positive and negative contact…leds also are rated for no more on average 3v …so take a AA battery and test it before you soder it so you know which is what…you might have it backwards

Yeah…so my soldering skills need work…but the gun is ok now…the lights seem to work. I closed up the trigger box…and things are still turning on and off…so that’s good. So, when I solder, I should heat the part, not the solder stuff? :stuck_out_tongue: There’s your problem…lesson for the future…I do the blob and hope for the best method. Now I know…and knowing is half the battle. I am just no good at building things. :stuck_out_tongue:

Yeah you heat the part and then touch the solder to it, it should melt and flow on. Heatign it on the iron means you get a blob and risk a cold-solder joint. (Basically it looks soldered, but itsn’t) Sounds like maybe a partial cold solder joinet. But hey, live and learn. I suck at soldering too.