What are the tricks to weathering?
There are plenty of threads on this topic, just use the “search” function and you’ll see.
http://www.gbfans.com/community/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1322&hilit=weathering+techniques
Back in my old days of SW replicas, I used dry brushing. On other props, I painted the first layer with silver, then applied color. When done, I sanded lightly and the silver would show.
Look at the reference pics. Note how and where the real packs are weathered.
Think about what parts of the pack might concievably rub up against something when in use. The ion arm for example sticks out quite bit, so the side and end of that would get scratched up.
Also, get some fuller’s earth from Toddscostumes.com, put some in a sock, and pat it generously all over the pack. Then take a dry cloth and lightly wipe the pack down. This will leave most of the dust in the cracks and crevices, making the details, like the ribbing on the split loom, and thw washers on the cyclotron lights, stand out more.
For rust, some people use cinnamon, but you can buy rust colored model paints and use those if you want something more permanent.
Agreed with GhostGuy. I’m more inclined to go with the “less is more” school of thought as some people have weathered theirs like it was thrown down a flight of stairs repeatedly. Very unnatural. 
You mean I’m not supposed to do that to weather my pack?
:lol:
I guess I shouldn’t really say that as it all depends on what kind of look someone wants. I personally do like the natural look of paint missing like you said. In places that looks like it would hit something. All the dust and rust too!
Some people don’t seem to want realism in their weathered look…
I agree, less is more, as long as it is well placed. What you generally want to do is make the thing looks like it had been used. More where it would naturally get quickly damaged/rubbed and less where its protected. On the opposite, more dust where its protected, less where it rubs a lot.
There are several techniques already described, you can use them all or any of them separately. Some people are quite happy with dabs of rub n’ buff here and there, some people want the chipped down look, some people prefer pristine.
Good thing with the layered technique, and a reason I do it over the drybrush style, is that when the prop gets real damage, you generally chip only the overlayer, exposing the underlayer, for yet another part of weathering.
all in all, it depends what you’re prone to do, and what you’re after.
But, really, use the search button. it is your friend for this type of issues. This forum has tons of info already posted about weathering, and google has even more.
I found this turotial on weathering aluminum and brass…
It uses some chemicals, but the results are pretty nice.
I was actually looking for a turotial on how to make aluminum appear oxidized however for the clamp. No luck with that yet, though I suspect dipping it in salty water and drying it repeatedly would give a good result based on how my car looks at the end of every winter. 
I assume the clamp isn’t made of the same material as your car…
I need to find a local source for aluminium black, I assume I would have issues at the borders if ordering this from the states.
Doesn’t matter what it’s made of. The white stuff is just salt deposits.
I tested it with a piece of aluminum foil on the stove and some saturated saltwater and melted the foil, but the concept is sound. It looks just like oxidization. Just need to let it dry on its own, or use a hair dryer to avoid potentially melting the piece.
That and keep the pack from getting wet, because like fuller’s earth and cinnamon, it’ll wash right off.
Shouldn’t be too hard, you just have to find a gun deal… oh wait, you’re in Canada.
yeah. 
Apparently I should find it in some sports dealer. Hunting is a sport. Sadly, the sportshops I visit don’t deal in hunting very much. I didn’t put much effort towards that yet, so there’s still hope.
You could try Wal*Mart. They carry guns and hunting supplies in the US.
One page I found said this store has birchwood casey products, but I can’t find them on the page:
http://www.sculpturesupply.com
Also, another page said many hardware stores sell some kind of “blacking fluid” for tools, though tools don’t tend to be made out of aluminum.
http://www.goblesfirearms.com/Birchwoodcasey.html
There is an Ontario based company that has Aluminum Black, in fact they only ship to Canada… So I doubt it will be that hard to find if you start looking, higher end airsoft stores might be another place to look…
Only in certain places now, all the Wal-Marts in my area have pulled out of all gun sales, they still sell a limited selection of ammo and other supplies but they drastically cut back an anything related to guns…
do you really think Wall Mart would sell guns in Canada? :roll:
I’ll look into ordering from that ontario-based store, looks promising.
Do we need much of it?
they sell it 10$ for 3 oz.
how big an area can we turn black with 3 oz?
I only recently found out about that stuff from that tutorial, but a little bottle like that probably could do a heat sink. Maybe the gun box.
It needs to be done outdoors though.
What are you planning to blacken with it? And how black exactly do you want it? Just a bit “scorched” looking? Or all black?