A couple of the proton pack parts I built in 3d that can be printed at 3D hubs. My ring was built for a 1" outer diameter gun tube. Just specify 7/8 to fit the standard tube.
I had used someones 3D legris banjos but I decided in the end to get metal ones from GB fans. The 3Ds were fine, just a hair thicker and I used brush on metal.
Thanks for sharing!!! 
I am having a trigger ring printed right now. I had one done in silver PLA but I am not happy with the material though it looks pretty perfect. . This one is being printed in Color Fab Steelfill. It has steel in it and can be buffed to a steel shine. As you know, often the aluminum triggers go for 50 bucks plus shipping. These will be 20 dollars, printed and shipped. That is what I am paying for this one so hopefully if it works out . I have several parts of my pack 3D printed. The tower (that is my fave part as it looks just like the original) , the back plate, the gun box.
I started my first pack using Acrylic sheet, wood and Styrofoam. I used Styrofoam for light weight and just to prove I could do it.
I then got a 3D printer (FDM) and started to replace some parts with printed parts.
I was lucky that I got a Matty wand when they were being sold so I used that to finish my pack.
I am now going to build a second pack and help some friends build theirs. Most will be 3D printed parts. The downside of FDM printed parts is lots of puttying and sanding. No Matty Wand this time so I will have to print wand parts and figure out a light and sound system.
All of the parts I used for my sons pack are here. Some parts are based off ones on thingiverse and some are completely redone or remodeled for accuracy.
https://github.com/CountDeMonet/ArduinoProtonPack/tree/master/Model/83_Percent_Pack
They are at 83% scale so you can just add 17% in the slicer to get it to full size. Ultimately I mirrored the pack for my son as he’s a lefty but the parts are correct in github. One day I’ll print myself one full size. Maybe after I finish my astromech droid.
Hey Styrafoam. On the tower the striations look great. Yes, the other parts they need sanding. I recommend a black primer. It fills in pretty well and cuts down the puttying depending how tight or low the number of microns. At this point I have actually switched from SteelFil to Polymaker Polysmooth in slate grey, The reasons being that it is far more durable and , this! It can be smoothed by an isopropyl alcohol! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xn8aPIKtq8
Thanks CountDeMonet. It looks great even at 83% where you would expect it to be less smooth. How many microns were you printing at ?
I printed pretty rough. Finished the whole thing with Bondo, Rust-Oleum automotive filler primer, and tons of sanding to get it smooth. You can’t tell it’s 3d printed
My printer only does 4” sections so the thrower handles will be split - what adhesive would work best?
What are you printing in? For ABS it’s best to use acetone as it will chemically weld the parts together.
For pla and petg there are a number of options depending on the need. weldon-3 and 4 work pretty good as chemical welders. Very toxic though. I’m using it to weld the parts that need extreme strength. Pla can also use super glue for parts that get less stress but it is a fragile bond. I had success with 5 minute epoxy on my pack for parts that need more strength than super glue but might need some extra work time. For things like the pack mounts to the motherboard where there is lots of weight bearing I use gorilla glue. Wet both parts and watch the foam grow. I don’t use that on anything that will be visible.
Finishing I use Bondo glazing putty to fill holes. Lightly sand with 120 gritt to knock high ridges down a bit and make primer stick better. Hit it with Rust-Oleum automotive filler primer two or three times sanding with increasingly finer paper each time to 400 grit. Then spray the color you want.
I was going to say, I thought it was amazing for a 3d print. Great work.
I use a 2 part epoxy. If you go to a place like 3DHubs you will find a printer big enough to do it one piece. I made mine too. A bit different than the originals but within my budget
The Polysmooth sounds interesting. Do you have the chamber unit and what do you do with parts are too large to fit in there.
Did you make your own chamber for larger parts or can you spray the isopropyl alcohol on it?
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Unfortunately due to a personal disagreement, Darlie has decided to vandalise the majority of the posts she’s made here. My apologies for the disruption caused.
Oh please Ben , just lock another thread based on your petty whims, continue the pattern of harassment. You don’t appreciate members contributions so why am I participating?
It was a disagreement, a heavy handed disagreement from my side I’ll admit. As disagreements go that was pretty tame compared to what I’ve been on the receiving end in the past, but I acknowledge experiences will vary. I’m sorry that you’ve gotten the impression that I don’t appreciate member contributions… I do appreciate member contibutions.
I don’t think vandalising the majority of your posts was a reasonable response.