3D printing a PKE Meter for my son's halloween costume (arduino based with source added)

Count – I’m the guy who’s been pestering you on Thingiverse the last couple weeks, and I just want to say thank you so much for all your help! I’m waiting for the custom PCBs, the screws, and a couple AAA battery holders (I misread it all initially and was working with AA, which I assume is why I was confused about the buck converter), then I should be able to put it all together. I’ll post pics when it’s done.

So, I was torn between using the light pattern from the first movie vs the light pattern from the second movie that you programmed in. In conversation, I asked a friend which I should do and he suggested “Why not both? Control it with a switch?” There’s really no more room for a switch in the hardware, but there are the buttons on the face and usually some room for more code. I forked your repo, Count, and refactored the code a little bit, and was able to add in a pair of loading screens which will let you choose the wing light pattern from either of the movies (depending on, I guess, which suit you’re wearing) and whether or not to play the sounds. The code, if anyone is interested, is available in this Github repo: GitHub - panatale1/Arduino_PKE_Meter: Code and models for an arduino based Ghostbusters PKE Meter · GitHub. Let me know if you’d like me to submit a pull request, Count.

Nice work! I had not even thought to make it selectable and I like your solution. You’re going to make me have to pull mine apart and reflash it now :slight_smile: Yeah throw a pull request in and I’ll approve it. Just had one question on the code.

I answered the question in the repo. Thanks! Glad you like it!!

So, I learned an important lesson yesterday. Do not leave 3D printed pieces in a sealed vehicle on a New York summer(ish) day. The wings and the top part of the body all deformed and I have to have them reprinted.

Sorry to hear that. I’ve lost my fair share of parts due to warping in the sun. Happened to me a few times with the pack build while painting. Parts wouldn’t be in the sun when I painted but check back an hour later and oops.

If you are getting them reprinted and want it to be a little more resilient see if the place can print it in ABS. It’s easier to sand and a lot more resilient to heat than PLA.

Unfortunately, the library that I’m getting my parts printed out only does PLA filament. As for sanding and painting, I’m planning on leaving it entirely unfinished. I really like the look it has from being printed. It gives it a real cobbled together/custom design aesthetic that updates the aesthetic from the movies to modern day. My fiancee even said “it feels like something Holtzmann would do.”

Hey Count, I have a question about the toggleswitch… Where do I have to solder it on?

I have all things together that I need and would like to start building it tomorrow… I also breadboarded ever thing and it worked like a charm.

Thank you so much for this model, the code… Everything.

Greetings from Germany :smiley:

The switch is placed at the bottom of the PKE Meter so I placed it between the bottom electrical pads for the battery. Soldered one pad to one side of the toggle and the other pad to the other. It can really go anyway as long as it is breaking the power. I did what would require the least wire :slight_smile:

Good luck. Glad it’s all working for you. :slight_smile:

Thanks for the quick reply… Will try it tomorrow… It’s my first arduino experience… Hope I got not two left hands for it

Hello Count, I have a little problem with the code… Since i’ve put everything together inside my 3d printed shell I have the problem that the Buttons don’t respond like they should… I can select the pattern and if I would like Sound… And if I press a button again it starts right from the beginning and didn’t toggle between slow, fast and faster… Any idea what can cause this? Sorry for bothering you, but as I mentioned I am an absolute arduino noob, this is my first arduino build ever…

Greetings from Germany

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It sounds like it might be resetting and going back to the configuration? Is that was is going on? I have not had a chance to install the latest code on my PKE yet. I’ll try to do that tonight and take a look.

I installed the code in my PKE and as it was written it worked but the selections were backwards. I updated the code in the repo to use the correct button and mode. Other than that the code worked fine. Could you explain what you mean by starts right at the beginning?

When I am past selecting pattern and Sound and press a Button again, it resets to the question which pattern I would like to use and than the question if Sound should be enabled… So I am stuck in a “selection loop”…

I will try your New Code tomorrow and give Feedback then…

Thank you for your help :nicejobyoudid:

Are you using the buck converter? If not the draw from the servo could be causing the voltage to sag and the arduino to reset. I had that happen to me before I added the buck converter. That’s why the original oshpark board design had the capacitor. It needed it to keep the voltage from sagging but ultimately I decided to power the servo separately.

That was the problem, thanks… I must have forgotten to set the buck Converter to 5v… Now everything works as it should… Thank you again for your help… Much appreciated…

Glad you got it working.

Hi there, I know it’s been a while since someone posted in this thread.

I’m about to start working on my PKE meter and was going to order the PCBs to have them on hand. I grabbed the code from Github, but when I uploaded it to OSH, it didn’t take and said there was an error in it.

Has anyone else ordered from there?

And thanks for all the work you’ve done on this! It’s amazing!

Make sure you upload the LED_board.brd file. I just tried it and oshpark accepted it. Can’t believe it’s the same price.

We detected a 2 layer board of 0.73 x 0.96 inches (18.6 x 24.4mm)

3 boards will cost $3.50

I don’t know how they can keep it so cheap. Love that place.

Got the PCBs (thanks!) and have been printing the parts. I think my Ender 3 may be a bit off as some of the parts are just falling apart. The crazy amount of supports too. Ack! I may have printed it too “fine” though (was printing at .15 and .2 mm (tried different prints) and saw you were printing at .3mm.

May have to try a piece at .3 and see how it turns out. But loving working on the build even if it is frustrating at times :slight_smile: