Can’t say the same.
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Guys, come on, lets leave the bad blood out of my build thread. Okay?
I do have a booster frame. I got it on ebay about 6 months ago, it was one of the first parts I got. At the time, it was the one of the only frames being sold. It’s decent, not great. I’ll probably start with it, then replace it with a Nick-a-tron later. I want to order grips from him anyhow.
Cant say enough about Nick’s parts. They are just amazing.
Why thank you!
Oh, you meant Nick-a-tron… oh. 
Terribly sorry about that dude. I’ll also back nicks grips, I have a pair and they were super easy to deal with.
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:walterpeck:
Wiz has some pretty good parts. The only thing is you have to keep an eye on his thread for product updates. I’m hoping to pick up one of his booster frames when they become availible again.
I have his clippard replicas as well as his legris straights. “I can’t believe they aren’t the real thing!” Should be his motto.
Wiz’s parts are beautiful. I missed the booster frames he had recently, but I’ve got his bumper, hose clamp, crank knob, a Clippard valve, and Legris straights. The knob blows my mind, it works like the real thing.
Sorry about that I tried to keep it about the thread but got a little derailed for a moment.
I also have nicks grips, I got the orange ones on my current pack. They are awesome, rewired little to no clean up and look/feel amazing!
Id recall like to have a set of his rubber grips and might order a set when i get around to ordering my frame. The only issue I have with them is I have an aluminum thrower and have my grips screwed in place. Im worried that the rubber might not hold the screws as well as resin ones. I suppose I could just glue them but I like being able to take my gun completely apart if I needed to.
This is an excellent idea. I did this with my Ion arm tonight. I wanted the nut to hold my PH-25 in place that way, too. I will probably hit it with a dab of glue to hold the nut in place, but not rely strictly on glue to hold the resistor down. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks, yeah, fitting the PH-25 nut in there was the main reason for making that hole.
Got all my electronics in the mail over the past few days. I did a test hook-up with the Mighty light/sound kit, and, for the most part, it worked! I had to reverse the polarity of a few of the LED hookups; it seems the wiring wasn’t 100% correct. And I still can’t get the strobe light to work properly. Right now, it stays permanently lit, then flashes when activated. I’ve gotta have it hooked up incorrectly somehow.
Tomorrow, I’m going to pick up a few more wires and a master switch, and probably rewire the blue brick battery to remove the LED and switch. Pics will be forthcoming.
Make it easy on yourself and buy one of these: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102599
You can get them cheaper elsewhere online just make sure the size is right. So instead of ripping apart the blue battery, just wire the panel jack into a DPDT switch then out to the rest of the set-up.
It’s weird with your strobe. I have an updated wiring diagram Shawn sent me after having a lot of trouble with the power wiring I’d be more than happy to send you if you like!
That switch wouldn’t solve the issue of the always on LED though, would it? That’s the main issue I’m trying to resolve. I’d like to keep the battery in the pack and not have to constantly open it to turn off the battery/ LED.
I would love to check out that diagram. Could you post or PM me? Thanks!
I opened the battery as per Morydees thread and desoldered the LED and removed it.
Problem…solved.
Sorry to hear you’ve had to rework a chunk of your Mighty to get it to work properly, you shouldn’t have to be going through those hoops to fix Shawn’s handiwork.
Pm shawn on another social media site, im sure he can help you resolve the issue. He is usually VERY GOOD about going the extra step to make sure his customers are satisfied.
I know he is not regarded very well on this site and I fully understand why that is. But thats all business, I know him personally and have hung out with him on several occasions he really is a genuinely nice guy who is just guilty of poor planing, and unfortunate errors on his part and errors due to issues with manufacturers.
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I just mentioned this to him and he said tou might have the strobe on the vent port, the strobe is port #9.
He also said there’s a read me file on his instructions that has new updated port info.
Hope this helps
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When I was having issues with the led’s coming on and staying lit, in the end it was a faulty board and I had to swap it out with my spare. But I have noticed the mighty is uber sensitive to the battery being replaced, so one thing you can do is go into the firmware find the software file and version it up a number. This forces the mighty to properly reload itself, or format the card and install the files from scratch and see where that gets you…