Added the leg hose connector to the jumpsuit today. First I wanted to find the right shade of khaki for the thread. Fortunately my fiancé was able to help and we found this shade that matches the Tru-Spec suit almost exactly.
Next I wanted to have the leg hose connector be more secure than my first jumpsuit. First time I wore the leg hose it was only connected by thread that barely held on after a few hours. I think it was due to the weight of the resin pulling on the fabric with the clear hose. So, to help I thought why not first start by putting a Velcro patch. I glued the “hook” side of the Velcro to the connector and the “loop” end to the suit.
After it was in place all that was left was to thread the holes.
excellent work and great instructional photos! It looks like you worked hard. I am in the process of waiting for a uniform to come in. I had ordered one, loved the first one which was super comfortable. but it wound up too big on me because I lost a lot of weight through being sick but aside from that how long did your initial set up for your uniform and proton pack take you? I look forward to seeing more pictures. Will t here be any more?
Hey Chris! When you re-painted your Lifegard II, did you use a different paint color the second time? I really like the yellow in your repaint pictures better than the prior photos. I see you originally used Rustoleum Sun Yellow. What did you use for the repaint?
Must be the different lighting then. It looks lighter in the repaint photos. I’m trying to find a good color to paint mine. I don’t want it to look too “orangey”. Trying to match the original color. I’m probably being too picky for this part of the costume. Yours looks good. I may give that Sun Yellow a try.
The only regret I have is that I didn’t use primer. I painted directly onto the plastic. The lettering I just went over with Sharpie black. Up close it looks OKAY but from a distance you can’t tell.
I am playing with the idea of reprinting it again.
So I’m extremely close to finishing my uniform. While it’s not 100% accurate it is pretty close.
I recently bought a real Sanyo ICC-808D but I still need a daughter board. In my research I found out that not two are alike. This is a nice relief because I don’t have to stress too much about being dead on accurate.
But I’m still left with a couple questions:
1.) what are the measurements of the daughter board?
2.) will a coiled black phone cord work to connect to the 808D?
3.) how/where exactly does the cord connect to the boards?
Any help, especially picture references would be great.
I drilled a hole through both the board and the cord’s adapter and screwed in a short countersunk black screw so that it holds it nice and tight, but discrete enough to not be completely noticed immediately…