If you’re making any “box” part, like the power-cell or similar, its even easier if you just cut out the 45 angle, and leave it connected with the paper on the outside. That way you don’t need to fill at all for the most part.
Good call on that one CPU64. I wish I had thought of that for my power cell and probaby could have done that on quite a few parts. I did use that method however for my Ion Arm so I’d have nice clean seams on the angled side.
Best things I’ve found for filling foam parts are elmer’s wood putty (It is also water soluable before curing) and also gorilla glue. It’ll hold, but won’t eat the foa,m. Just remember it does expand, so put it in places that won;t leak out, or use smaller amountss for minimal leak. Its pretty strong stuff, once yu get used to using it.
went to the store today. bought me bondo… WITHOUT HARDENER! had to drive back and exchange it wit another one. oh well… when i was walking through the store, i notice the paint. hammered or metal. what do you guys think will look better on my build?
anyways, i got to work on the gun some more. since ive decided its going to be a vid game pack, i got to work on the slime tether box.
then i drilled holes onto the side of the box and the gun, and fitted them wit bolts.
and wallah!
enjoy. feel free to comment.
small little bit. i applied gorilla glue to strengthen the cosmetic plate and the sync.
alas, the bondo. now i started applying to both the booster tube part and the gearbox. feel free to comment. advice is welcomed!
I kinda like the Hammered paint that they make. However, it does give it little smooth textures much like you would find on a cast iron wood stove.
I used it on the black metal pieces when I refurbed my arcade cabinet and I thought it looked great. However, on a proton pack, I doubt I would personally use it, but since this is not my pack, I say do what you like.
FWIW, spray paint will eat up foam pats unless completely coated in something. You need to seriously make sure everything is sealed 100% is made from foam core, otherwise you’ll just get melted parts.
Or use bruch on arylic enamel paint (like walmart has in the craft section), or flat black house paint. Both will not react to foam.
Foamcore is generally coated already on the outisde. Only the CORE if foamcore is foam. Paco seems to have a lot of edges sealed already, but if not I suggest just using some hot glue, with some sort of striaght edge to smooth it out, or even just paint some good ol elmers glue in to your crevases and that should do the trick…assuming this is even an issue.
I’ve seen a few game pack builds and it seems the width of the gun upgrade is usually overestimated… it looks to me that the entire gun should be twice the normal gunbox width, tops, plus the little spacer in the middle. The upgrade part looks to be roughly the same shape as the standard gunbox, only set back a tad.
But that’s just my opinion and my eyeballs.
Other than that, everything you are doing is good. I want you to know this.
closer shot: sanded the fins and the booster tube section, looking good enough. since its a game pack the unevenness of the build will enhance the battle-scare look.
now to the gun… got to work on the “drum”.
bolts. since i want the parts to be removable, ive drilled holes for bolts to hold everything in place.
the front of this portion is removable, and i’m later gluing wooden plugs to hold it down.
now u just need to screw it to the gun… and PRESTO!
I think some of your pictures are really strange… in some of them your gun looks proportioned correctly. In others it looks way too fat, which is what I was referring to in my earlier post. Now I’m thinking it’s just the pictures.
I would screw or bolt down as much as possible. That way you can replace/repair/upgrade much easier.
(I just spent about 20 minutes prying my glued down cycltron off my sync generator because someone poked one of the cyclotron lenses into the cyclotron. I almost had to destroy the cyclotron in order to get it off!