I am going to install the barrel extension and lights. Do you have any tips for drilling out the hole in the gun body to allow these to pass through? I was thinking of using a dremel and making a bunch of small holes first.
I’ve used a Forstner bit to bore out the hole. I had one successful drilling with an auger bit but then two failures in a row, so I’d stick with the less abrasive Forstner.
I used a 1/2" spade bit (a very sharp, new one) to drill a hole from the front barrel into the body of the gun, and it worked extremely well. Just drill a nice pilot hole and go slow.
The resin seems to be really similar to hard wood in density, at least in terms of dremeling and filing. Captures a -ton- of detail too!
Whatever works, but I’d personally be terrified of breaking the resin with a spade bit. At 1/2" you’d probably be okay, but if someone wanted to bore it out to 7/8" then I’d def be cautious
What size drill bits are you using for your screw holes in the pics? For the smaller ones it looks like about 1/8". Also, what size screws did you use?
Okay, so after a little more time to think I came up with the idea that you are just drilling pilot holes with a smaller drill bit and then threading the screws directly into the resin? I’ve never done this before, so that’s just my best guess… Another thing, where can I find the threaded posts you used to connect the trigger box to the rear instrument bar?
Yeah you drill a hole that is just a hair smaller than your screws, that way the threads dig into the resin and sort of tap out their own threads. If you drill a hole that is too big and the screw is loose, which I often do myself, you can put a very thin layer of soap or Vaseline on the screw threads, put a few drops of super glue or epoxy into the loose screw hole, and then turn in the screw and the let glue dry. Because of the barrier, you will be able to remove the screw and the hole will hold the screw tightly and match the threads.
The threaded posts I used were just bolts with the heads cut off. You can buy threaded rod at just about any hardware store. You can also use a set screw, which is like a threaded rod, but one end can be screwed in with an Allen wrench.
Example:
I actually just got back from Home Depot with all of those things, except I forgot to look for small allen screws… What size did you use in the pics?
I can’t remember. You want something around 1/8" in diameter, and 1/2 - 3/4" long.
Has anyone sanded off the cast regulator knobs to try and put aluminum knobs in place?
I have a set of jpa35’s, and I’d love to do it, but i’m worried about messing up the body.
I did cut the knobs off using one of those very thin bladed pull saws. The body of the gun was not even scratched during the process. In fact the knobs came off so cleanly that I bundled them up with the resin knobs that came with the kit and sold the whole set on ebay. Just go very slowly and hold the saw flat against the body of the gun.
Hi guys,
How thin a blade are we talking? I’m thinking of doing the same with all metal knobs and barrels! I have metal knobs on their way
Thx
The saw is a flush-cut saw made by Irwin. The blade is very thin and the teeth do not project out from the sides at all, which is very important.
edit, I found the answer I was looking for please disregard this post.
I have a real Clippard valve that I intend to use with my V3 thrower but I, like an idiot, over drilled the holes for the mounting bolts. Now the screws have nothing to bite into. What’s the best solution for securing the valve to the gun body with out using the screws?
Use a nut and a washer on the other side?
I can for the inboard side of the valve, but the outboard side is right up against the sidewall of the gun body and I cant get a nut on it.
Plumbers putty should do the trick.
I have to agree with TC, on my kit I had to use plumbers putty to reinforce the holes that hold the bottom plate on. It was nice and strong, showed no signs of coming loose or anything. It might help to put a little super glue on your valve too.
I was thinking that, just wanted to be sure, thanks TC. Awesome kit by the way, I’m having a lot of fun building it!