The switch that goes in the trigger box the push button one, does anyone know where I can get that? I need a mini one that is DPDT and I cant find one anywhere.
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=8700473&MPN=MB2061SS1W01-RO
And
http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?SKU=8703001&MPN=AT413A
The pushbutton itself does not come with a cap (found that out the hard way), so make sure to order a cap.
Yes, I know its not accurate, but it works.
Or you can take a radio shak pushbutton, break it off, put it on a piece of 18 guage wire, and put that into the DTPT listed above for a more screen accurate look.
G
I bought mine on Ebay, I think I got 10 red switches and 10 black switches for $4.50 shipped. They’re not perfectly accurate, but they’re close. The seller was ‘Hamptonpa245’. Just search for ‘momentary push button miniature’.
The problem with Hamptonpa’s switches is that they are NOT DPDT switches.
I found mine at my local electronics surplus store. Which is also a great place to get scrap wires, speakers, connectors, etc. I assume you need this for a sound/light kit combination?
Yea I need it for the thrower sound. but the switches I have wont fit in my MMM trigger box.
Gbass242 had that same issue. I suggest just fabricating a new bottom plate for it with a deeper recess for the switch bottoms.
It’s not going to be 100% screen accurate. But no one’s gonna look at your thrower and say “Hey! Your trigger box is 1/8” thicker than it should be!" And if they do, neutrinize them!
I alleviated my problem by cutting a square out of the bottom plate, and put black electrical tape over the hole. It is not noticeable. Plus, its easier access than finding that right bit from your Allen wrench or Allen bit set. And if you get the right kind of tape, it does not fall off with the slightest increase or decrease of temperature.
I don’t even have a bottom plate on my trigger box…just exposed wires!
MMM’s trigger box is well known to be in need of some whittling to fit switches and wires in place. Irricanium made the walls thick, I believe, to make sure you had alternatives for mounting the bottom plate around the outside.
I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to put a bottom plate to my trigger box because i have twice as many wires as you guys. There’s a full set of on/off wires for lighting and for sound times 2, one for each switch. I wound up with great looking and sounding effects, but too many damn wires to run through the side of the switchbox now that it’s all soldered. I dread resoldering so I’m avoiding adding a side hole so I can close it up. I figure my gun is so screen inaccurate what’s one more thing you hardly see? So I just cover it all up with latex electrical tape and enjoy my gun from the pretty angle, cuz if you turn it over and look at it from underneath it’s lacking a gunrack, has exposed wires, and is missing all sorts of stuff I cut corners on but am ok with.
Funny you should bring this up because I spent an hour this past weekend repairing my pack from its last outing. (see acadiana book and comic lightsaber party on the “events” forum.) One thing I decided to do was to move my trigger box to a more accurate location and narrow the gap between it and the gun and in the process I broke 3 solders, so I had to go in and resolder it after the triggerbox was in it’s final but much more correct position.
G
I think I have the same amount. My pushbutton has 5 wires to it (3 for sound, 2 for lights) and 5 wires for the switch (again, 3 for sound, 2 for lights) making it 10 wires going from the TB to gun. I’m dreading that day too that I have to fix some solder problem, but I’m not going to do any lightsaber battles with my pack on. I’m not aerodynamic enough as is, let alone with a proton pack on.
I’m aware of the issue with the trigger box depth, what most have done is mortise out the cover plate inside to allow for additional room. My new trigger box is deeper with more room for extra wires and it has brass threaded inserts for the cover plate so as not to strip out the resin from removing the plate over and over. What I would appreciate is if you guys would email me when you come across these types of issues so I can make improvements, I’m always trying to make the kit better so any input is appreciated.
The switches on my Proptronix light kit fit fine in my old trigger box with very little mods done, you guys are obviously using a different style of switch, can someone post some pics of what you are using. Perhaps even some measurements??
Thanks,
Colin
MMM
Irri, I put up the link of the kind of switch I use near the top of this thread. Dimensions look to be 3/4" X 3/4" X .7/8", prongs jut out 1/8"ish, and the thread mount is 1/2"L X 1/4" W with a 1/8" ring base (sorry, I don’t have a ruler in front of me.
Big switch if you ask me.
It IS big. I think the Robwerden post introducing the Propreplicas sound chip to these forums last summer has lots of links of the switches many of us wound up using. Rob has a nice set of links to where all the parts to get a sound system working for a pack can be bought. The DTPT pushbutton switch has a HUGE box under it with six solder points and it took me quite a while to get it into the MMM triggerbox. It’s a big ■■■■ switchbox…plus the DTPT toggle had to be fit in there too, but for some reason its base is much smaller.
G
So it’s that big due to it being used for sound as well? Seems awful big
The reason for the DPDT push button having a larger base to it is because the plunger is going into the base while on a toggle switch, it does not have to accommodate the plunger of a push button.
There are some more push button options in this thread, on the second post of the fourth page. The shallowest switch I mention on there would probably be the C&K components push button.
But once again, you will run into the issue of the button’s base being large. But if it makes you feel any better, having the bottom of your trigger box open is screen accurate to the GB2 semi-hero packs. Either that, or Sean Bishop removed the plate on the bottom of it for the picture. You can kind of see where there’s threaded holes in the corners of the box.
And most people that have a Throwingchicken gun kit, their trigger box is open on the bottom, including mine.
This picture was taken before I moved my DPDT switch for my lights into the trigger box as well, which really makes it look like a rat’s nest in there.
The point of all this? Honestly no one will really notice the bottom of your trigger box is open if you feel you can’t get it closed because of the DPDT push button. And hopefully you might find one of the 2 other switches I have in that thread might work better for you.
I purposefully used all black wire on my triggerbox. Hell of a pain to figure out where things go if I ever rewire it but the black wires under a black box go largely unnoticed.
G
Hmm, I stand corrected. THere’s a green one in there…
Behold, this is what I have nightmares about! lol…
The gun’s way more refined now showing less woodgrain and with better knobs and filled joints, but the wiring hasn’t changed much. I also moved the triggerbox this past weekend and set it closer to the body and lower where it’s supposed to be.
G