I am trying to get my light kit to change the fining modes and the sounds from the gun ear switch. I figured out how to set the dip switches to get the firing bulb to change color, but the sound card keeps using the defult fining sound. Both potentiometers onthe pack kit and wand kit are set to TVG mode any help would be appreciated thanks
It would help determine a solution if people reading this topic knew which Proton Gun lighting kit you’d purchased.
Was it Shawn Swift’s Mighty kit?
I aplogise it was the gbfans light kit, soundboard and pack light kit
The Wand Lights and Pack Lights get synced through the Sound card. The sound card can invert switches like the power up but that is not needed (or wanted) with the Wand Lights kit. So set the Sound Board’s input switch controls (Sound Configuration Dip switch) #1, #2 and #4 to OFF.
This should get the lights to go on in both the pack and the Wand when th Wand Power up switch on.
I asked Spongeface the exact question and this was what you need to do.
"For TVG lights, the sound card needs to be set up for changes (Sound Configuration Dip Switch) #3 OFF and #5 ON.
Now for the Wand Lights, you can choose either of the TVG modes (Wand Configuration Dip Switch #1 On, #2 On and #3 OFF or ON depending on the rumble mode).
Now to get the change in TVG modes you use the Ear Red momentary pushbutton. If the Vent Light is On, then pushing the Red ear button will cause a mode change so you should see the pack lights change immediately . If the vent light is off, pressing the Red pushbutton will cause venting."
Thanks for the help, but I am still getting the default firing sound…urg
So the lights all sync and when you push the ear button to switch lights and modes they all sync, BUT you dont get the sound to change with the lights? Meaning no matter what firing mode its always the default proton stream?
Correct, I am uploading a youtube video of it now. but thats whats going on!
a video of my issues. thanks for all the help so far!
I’d send sponge a PM after you’re 100% double sure the switches are set up like I posted. Also I didn’t hear the normal “click” sound the board outputs when you switch firing modes. So I’m not sure.
If you have the sound board setup correctly, but can’t get the GBVG sounds to switch… then you’re pressing the button for too long.
It is a very quick press on the trigger button to get it to switch between the GBVG sounds.
I’m actually having the exact same issue. I’ve printed out all the instructions I could find and have looked for threads covering it and this was the only one I could find. Was there a fix to this?
It appears that the Sound board is not configured to change sounds, so when the pack change signal goes to it it just plays the “proton fire” sound in stead of the pack change “click” sound.
The WandLights board sends out a short pulse on the Fire pushbutton signal for you so you do not have to deal with trying a very short tap of the Fire button. It even “helps” you by filtering out short taps of the fire button so you only get pack changes from the ear button and not from the fire button.
To configure the Sound board to accept changes the configuration switches should be set to:
Switches #1, #2 and #4 are off (no inversion needed when using the WandLights board)
Switch #3 OFF and Switch #5 ON to allow the multiple Packs.
Switch #6 is set to whether you want hum or not and should not matter.
Make sure configuration switch #5 is all the way on and not just partially on.
You do need to make sure you power cycle the SoundBoard (or WandLights) when you change configuration switches that will change the pack mode selections. This means that the battery voltage has to be removed from the board. Some configuration happens when power is supplied to the board.
Hopefully that gets your pack changes working!
It was the fact that I manipulated the switches with the battery connected. I unconnected and reconnected it and that’s all it needed! Thank you so much!
Glad to hear you solved the problem.
Ok, I have a new GB fans sound light and wand kit. I do have the venting module in line pending receiving my e cig smoker. It worked ok with it in line earlier I seem to have messed something up trying to configure the kits.
It was working fine this afternoon and after an unknown change I seem to have lost the alarm and venting you get when you hold the fire button too long!! It will fire forever without over heating and venting… Any help would be greatly appreciated!
M
Easiest thing to do is set all switches back to “off” and start over. The documentation download will also help if you haven’t already done so.
Thanks Venkman’s Swagger ! You’d laugh, but I actually started to get myself into a snit about reading the directions lol. 
I am a man but I do read directions (mostly) and I made doubly sure with something this sophisticated that I downloaded and had read a full set of PDFs from the Shop.
Its great that they put those there and imperative that people who buy this awesome gear download them. I even watched the videos and emulated the switch settings I could see lol.
…and yes I had reset everything to off…(insert caveat)…with the battery connected. Sometimes on, sometimes off.. Hits head with hand, sounds like hollow coconut…
I then had a small epiphany and remembered reading this gentleman’s post earlier
Per your wise suggestion, and in conjunction with that post,
Before I started messing with it this morning and reconnected the battery, I deep cycled the switches all to on, then down the line all to off. I made sure they firmly set as well and clicked.
Drum roll please!!! Reconnected the battery and BOOM, I now have everything back where I want it!!! Venting alarm and reset lights and sounds are now back!!!
I had simply wanted the pack hum and then started playing with it to try the TVG modes…love the stealthy hunting and reply mode!!
I did all of this mostly with the battery connected, but the power to the electronics turned off at the thrower switch…not the battery, and I think its safe to say that is not a good idea.
If the battery is “On” and connected there is still power to the electronics package.. (red glowing indicator says so)
I wasn’t super concerned something was broken because I also remembered what a very good friend who is an electronics and computer guy said. He opined that with “Most solid stated stuff it is really hard to screw up the code, Baring you’ve shorted something out or physically broke something, its probably still here.” Meaning the data.
Now if someone can help me finish my Flux Capacitor or direct me to a Back to The Future thread, blog or group…I’d like the time I wasted being stoopid back LOL!!!
Thank you for you help Venkman’s Swagger and LastoftheMcketrics !