So I have been reading post after post about wiring in the infamous “blue brick” battery. I thought I would cut the wires back to a single set of red black wires and work from that. I was going to get an on,off,on switch and wire the battery to the center posts. Then wire the charge to one set of posts and my board to the other set of posts. That way I flip it down to charge and up to play, the center would cut it off. But I’m starting to think this won’t work. Does anyone PLEASE want to share a way they installed their battery in the pack. Can u completely get rid of the switch on the battery. Or can u just get rid of the led on the switch and just leave it on. Thanx to everyone who can give me some help. I’m sure there are a lot of people on here looking for a simple solution for their battery install.
So a lot of the wiring diagrams I’m seeing. Looks like the switch is bypassed. But I’m not seeing it mentioned specifically. I know someone on here can give me a direct answer, preferably I detailed instructions since I am not a master electrician. Or if the switch can just b left on all the time. Thanx.
You can wire it just the way you describe with an ON-OFF-ON switch. You can use just the red and black wires without the LED if you want.
K. Cause someone told me it won’t charge like that. Im gonna go with that and give it a go. I trust ya brother. Thank u
Like this…
SB- Batt- Chg-
| | |
o---------------o----------------o
o---------------o----------------o
| | |
SB+ Batt+ Chg+
K so cut it all the way back to two wires. The guy at radio shack told me it wouldn’t charge and it would burn up my board if it shorted out. Had me freaked.
Shorting would be bad. The illustration above assumes a DPDT switch with common center terminals. In one ON position, the positive/negative battery will connect to the soundboard. In the other, it will connect to the charger. If you have a DPDT with center OFF, the battery will connect to nothing.
You need to understand the terminal connections for your specific switch to ensure you wire it correctly. This is similar to how I wired mine, although I used multiple DPDT switches.
Cool. I really appreciate it. I am going to do that. Your pack is what mine inspires to b so it makes sense to me. I have just put so much time and money in it to make it as accurate as possible I didn’t want to screw it up and electrical is not my strong point. Thanx brother.
Denny,
I did exactly as you describe and it works like a charm.
Do u have any pics. I just opend my battery and not sure about the wires going to the switch. It looks like there are 3 red wires coming up from the battery not sure what is what.
Check that link out. I have some pictures in the fourth post. Doesn’t show a closeup of the battery connection. I cut the battery open and removed the switch then took the two wire in the battery and connected to one of the jacks that I had cut off initially. Hope it makes some sense.
Here is what I got. 
](http://s1301.photobucket.com/user/denney13/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141228_181518029_zps3fa1b0a4.jpg.html){kind=link}
2 red wires out one side one tied together. One red wire out the other side soldiered on the switch and 2 black wires from the plugs only tied together and soldiered to the switch.
If anyone can tell me which wires to use for pos and neg that would get me going. And what’s up with the other red wire.
OK. Sorry for the confusion. I went and got my multi meter and got it figured out. I had to get a little deeper in the battery than I was to figure it out. My meter is reading it as 14v output but I’m guessing my meter is giving me a false reading. The fact that they used mostly red wires threw me off. Thanx to everyone for all the help.