Accurate, or idealized stripes?

I have been looking at pictures of screen used packs, and fan made. I noticed that stripes on the crank generator, and the power cell are not even.

Since I am currently in the process of making a pack to mold, and make for my friends (prop enthusiasts).

I was wondering, what is preferred, idealized, or accurate?

Thanks

Thomas

accurate

This is something I’ve been discussing with other people, and I think the consensus we came up with is to match the dimensions and angles, but try to eliminate some of the waviness and stuff you see in them.

So, make them neat, and try to replicate the in even angles.

That’s what I would suggest, yes. You’re already doing the work of applying them; why not make them as correct as you can?

is the warping consistent on all the packs or is it how it cured for each different one?

if they all are different on every pack, an idealized rib matching dimensions and angles is better because it’s a neutral look and probably as intended before molding.

Accurate or Idealized; it’s going to be your pack.

Do what you think looks good.

Like PC said; The packs were all slightly different for a reason.

Each one was built to achieve a certain look but at the same time various elements were tweeked one way or the other.

Examples:

-Filler Tube placement.

-Ribbon Cable twists.

-Fitting placements all over the pack.

(HGA, Cyclotron, and the straits by the PPD come to mind)

  • Length of the tubes and hoses on the Pack.

All of which eqaul out to what is the Spengler Pack, or Rays pack, or the Omni Pack.

These unique details how we name and identify them and is the reason fan-made packs look a little different from one to the next.

Have fun with it and and take your time building something to be proud of.

I’m gonna step off my soap box now :smiley:

not only with specific packs, not every pack used for situations is even identical. an example would be the murray pack and the pih spengler pack, or one hero pack next to another(ray’s different gb1 ion arm resistor next to every other one).

which is why i was wondering about how those ribs are on every pack, if it’s consistent or not, because i havent seen any discussion about that anywhere even though there are countless threads talking about how every pack is not identical. if it were up to me building my own, i wouldnt be wasting the energy to build something up just to create an error because of curing from a mold. i imagine when they MADE the original, everything was straight and true; and the warping came from the molding/casting process.

Totally agree with you on that one.

Here’s how my pack looks in that area:

More of the “idealized” style and, in my opinion; looking pretty damn good.

Now, Lets look at some screen used packs:

PiH Spengler pack:

PH Minnesota pack:

Sony Lobby:

My eyes could be playing tricks on me but..

..it looks as though the far right upper rib consistently goes strait back from its position unlike the one on the left.

The left one looks like it follows that body line of the Crank Box to the left of it.

The direction of the ribs is pretty consistent across all packs made from the same mold. Even the warpage seems pretty consistent among all the hero packs from GB1.

if you are making a specific pack like Ray’s GB2 pack, then make it is accurate as possible. If your making your own pack for your own ghostbuster you have a little wiggle room. If ghostbusting was real and you were a ghostbuster I really don’t think your pack would be a carbon copy of the original packs. Hell there is a bunch of varients in the design of the 4 orignal pack s.

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That’s what I was looking for! Thanks Matt!