Best way to attach trigger box?

Anyone have any suggestions as to the best way to attach the trigger box to the gun body? I’ve seen people screwing the Trigger Box only to the instrument bra, and I’ve seen one screw put through the instrument bar and one threw the gun body. But if you do the latter, how would you maintain the gap between the TB and the GB? Is it 2 pegs glued in? I’m using MMM’s gun kit.

Just a little confused, any help would be appreciated.

the trigger box is supposed to be attached to the slo-blo box. then the slo-blow box extends out past the edge of the gun body. thats how the gap is achieved.

since u are using colins gun kit, i cant tell you how to exactly mount the trigger box. one option would be to drill/tap for (2) 4-40 screws and run them into the slo-blo box. then cut the heads off and you now have studs you can thread a nut onto. it can be tricky, but drill out the trigger box to match up with the 2 studs on the slo blo box. then just attach with nuts from the inside of the trigger box. again, im not sure how much room colin has inside his trigger box, but thats what ive done before on other boxes ive used.

I used a MMM trigger box on a different gun body.At that time my trigger box came with 2 metal pins.I simply drilled the appropriate size holes and epoxied the pins in both the gun body and the trigger box.On my gun, the rear instrument bar provided the offset for the gap between the trigger box and gun body.The bottom of my trigger box is epoxied flush to the rear instrument bar.

Use the two pins provided with the kit.

Drill 1/8" holes in the trigger box, mount the pins then mark the locations on the slo-blo box and gunbox, drill the 1/8’ holes in the gun box and push it in, should leave you with the 1/4" gap that the slow blo box supplies, enough room for the green lever. Once you’re happy with the fit then glue/epoxy the pins to the trigger box and then to the gun body, if you are putting in a light kit you will want to drill the appropriate holes in the trigger box and gun body while you’re at it.

Throwingchicken’s method is the best I have seen.

Great idea. I wa actually just checking out your build thread.

This was my initial plan, but I wanted to ask before I started drilling holes and epoxying. Thanks for the details.

Thanks for all the input guys.

I have an Irricanian kit, but used a combination of his method and TC’s method- basically, I used both pins that Irricanian provided, but they are both drilled into the instrument bar in the same position as TC’s screws.

I drilled 2 holes through the side of the trigger box that attaches to the slow blo, and continued each one halfway through the outside wall of the trigger box. Matching holes were drilled in the end of the instrument bar. Then, I secured the pins to the trigger box with epoxy on both walls. The trigger box was then mounted to the instrument bar with epoxy in the hole for the pins, as well as on the mating face between the trigger box and instrument bar.

You’ll have to pay attention to the length of the pins. I had to trim one down as it would have interfered with the left socket head screw that mounts the instrument bar to the gunbox.

If you space them properly, there will still be room for switches/wiring. I drilled a hole for wiring between the two holes for the pins, as in TC’s picture.

my current thrower has an aluminum trigger box made by the wonderful jimbo7 and he gave me some advice which i followed and worked wonderfully. this should also work for a resin trigger box as long as the walls are thin enough and flat on the inside.

what i did was drill into the rear bar on my throwingchicken gunbox and screw in two 6-32 socket head cap screws until they bottomed out, leaving about 1/4" of the threads exposed(remember that if you drill small pilot holes instead of a hole the same size as the screw in the resin, the screw taps its own threads and makes for a very snug fit) Then i took a dremel with a cutting wheel and cut the head off of each screw, filed the cut down and made sure a nut would easily thread onto the screw.

after that, it was as simple as slipping the trigger box onto the screws and securing it from the inside with the nuts.

I ended up doing something very similar. I used an epoxied pin to secure the bottom hole drilled into the Instrument Bar, and a screw to attach the top. Worked pretty well IMO.

Damn. Need to remember that for Gun 2.0.