Can someone explain bondo?

So I am building my first pack, I am using the studio creations shell. I have gotten a few of the parts attached that make up the base. I got the vertical large pipe attached (I think its the booster?) and the PPD (the small part cut from a small cylinder shape with a angel in the top) also I have the N-filter but have not attached it. Anyways.

I keep hearing about bondo, is this something I should apply to the outside of my pack after all the basic shapes are on it. What does this do for the pack.

Sorry to ask noob questions, its just i have very little experience around a shop/hardware store and I want to do this right.

2 Likes

Bondo is a filler or putty that is used primarily in auto body work. Its two parts, the actual putty and the hardner (creamer). When you mix the hardner into the putty, it causes a chemical reaction that hardens the putty to the point where it can be sanded and painted. It’s used to fill small cracks, holes, imperfections, etc. You don’t want to cover your pack in it. Just use it to fix necessary imperfections. Bonda, when it hardens is heavy and if you never used it before it can be difficult to spread. Make sure when you buy it that it comes with the hardner. Bondo brand usually does.

Unless you’re scratch building a pack or heavily modifying a shell, you shouldn’t need to use bondo.

Bondo can have issues sticking to styrene unless you rough up the surface before hand. If you’re just doing spot filling I’d suggest getting glazing putty:

It doesn’t require mixing and is easier to work with for beginners. If you have large areas and cracks that need filling I’d suggest plumber’s epoxy putty:

It’s a 2-part mix that dries fairly quickly but is rock-hard when cured.

Brawndo’s got what plants crave. Its got electrolytes.

1 Like

Ha ok cool. I found some stuff laying around the garage it looks like cauk but it says its filler that is cool to use paint over it. I might take a look at that when I get home. I like stuff I dont have to go out and buy!

Do you even know what electrolytes are?..It’s what plants crave.

Water?!? Like from the toilet?

:smiley: I love that movie.

Bondo is super fun to work with and pretty easy.

Same with Rondo; Fiberglass Resin and Bondo mixed into delicious pudding(don’t eat it).

There are a many YouTube videos on application.

Plumbers putty is nice to work with but like Jack said its does get rock hard.

Use some sculpting skills and get the putty nice and neat to reduce sanding time.

You can also wet your finger or tools to smooth plumbers putty, since it gets sticky. Once it’s cured, you can actually carve it.

I moved from 2 part Bondo to the spot filler Jack listed on most of my projects, as it sets more predictably and sands better.

This thread needs to be stickied or at least put in a FAQ for quick reference.

If you pick up the Bondo Glazing putty at an auto parts store, they usually have a plastic spreader next to it. They are pretty cheap and help to smooth out the putty or get it into little pinholes on the surface. An old credit card will work as well.

If you have a shell with some thin/ weak spots in it Bondo works well to spread on the inside of it as well to thicken/ toughen up the thin areas.

I don’t know about using Bondo for reinforcement.. it’s ment for cosmetic purposes and I can see any stress just cracking and causing the Bondo to crumble.

If your trying to reinforce your shell in spots just lay a couple layers of Fiber Mat and Resin in said areas.

1 Like

thanks everyone for the education on bondo.

You can never go wrong with bondo, Especially when you are crafting things out of wood and you sanded or cut too much, you can always go back and fill in a layer of bondo and reform it the way you want, I had to do that several times when making the spacer from scratch out of plywood, then adding bondo to the round parts to make them as near perfect as possible. However, if you are planning to mount wood or other materials over it, I would recommend using a cement adhesive such as duco cement or all purpose epoxy, making sure the surface is roughed up a bit.

A bondo substitute that I am using is “Homefix Filler”, which is the same thing as bondo, just specified differently for wooden / board projects.

Bondo is great for filling cosmetic details, but it should never be load bearing, so you can technically go wrong with it.

You can use a bondo substitute for weight bearing material such as “JB Weld” which has a near bonding and break strength of steel. People I sell that to use it for frame work. Yet I advise reading the back package for weight limitations when using certain bonds.

I’ve never had much luck with JB Weld. It says it can bond steel but I still seem to shatter it from normal use.

as often as i have used jbweld, it’s often enough to know that i hate it. royally.

while they SAY you shouldnt use bondo for load bearing anything, jbweld is just as ■■■■■■ if not worse. i’ve had BETTER luck tapping a thread in bondo, and it holding, than i have with jbweld (which tends to gum up the screw threads and strip out the hole). dont do any of that though.

i also have had issues with my jbweld cracking. it’s the most infuriating needful thing on the market.

It all depends how its used. I have seen it used for engine block repair. Another good weight bearing substitue I sell that a lot of customers like for body repairs and fixing stocks from hunting rifles is PC Metal and PC Lumber Epoxy putty sold in Ace Hardware stores. Those are acceptable as well if you need to weld two materials or fill in something.