Filandrius' painting/weathering method

Equipment Tutorials & Guides
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Hey everybody! I was asked for a few times recently for my painting and weathering methods, and I thought I’d post something about it. Hopefully it’ll help people out. So here goes!

First, keep in mind that my method (the painting, that is) isn’t accurate to the screen-used props. The packs, for example, used satin black over light gray primer for the shells, and no primer at all on the aluminum parts; me, I used semi-gloss black over a silver base coat (with the intention of simulating the look of real metal when came the time of weathering)

Having said that, here’s what I did: I applied the aforementioned silver base coat (Krylon Fusion Nickel Shimmer, without any primer) on the shell and on the resin parts and let it cure thoroughly (7 days) Then I applied the semi-gloss (Krylon BBQ black) For the metal parts I used a standard primer instead of the silver coat (Krylon outdoor/indoor primer)

Once everything was dry, I weathered the final coat with different grades of steel wool. The rougher the grade, the less I used it (i.e. the finest one, #0000, I used everywhere) In addition of showing the silver base coat on the edges and such, this step dulled the black a little (making it more satin than semi-gloss) and gave it age and texture. I also gave the roughest one a go in several spots to simulate “battle damage” (The roughest grade goes first, afterwards you can make the damage more subtle with the other grades)

Then I simply applied a generous coat of fuller’s earth. This is the easiest part, and it’s so worth it. Transforms any hand-made prop in a authentic-looking piece of equipment instantaneously. You just put it on (I use a shaker) spread it around with a big, puffy brush, then remove the excess with a rag. Don’t use water or blow on it! :shock:

That’s pretty much it. Have fun, and don’t forget rule #1 of weathering: when you think you’re almost done, stop. A little weathering goes a long way (and too much weathering can force you to start everything all over again :roll:)

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Filandrius, bigi71 and Nick-A-Tron have some of the best looking weathering that you’ll find on these forums.

This is solid gold, kids :wink:

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I missed those comments. Thanks for the very kind words guys, it’s really appreciated. :slight_smile:

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Looks like I’m going to start stalking more of your posts. haha. This one is getting bookmarked, because I don’t believe in a shiny black pack.

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Speaking of shiny black packs, I thought I’d share a few tips on the painting itself. Here goes!

First, a little paint goes a long way. Trying to cover the parts with as much paint as possible is not a good idea. As is doing a big, thick coat all at once. That way lies running, orange skin, cracking and loosing the details. Rule of thumb: use as much paint, in light passes, to completely cover to color under it.

More than one coat of primer is overkill; the primer’s purpose is only to make the main color stick. So when priming the shell and/or resin parts stop when they’re all grey. If you’re going for toughness, you can prime the aluminum parts and the motherboard too, but the screen-used parts weren’t primed (primer or not, scuff the surface of metal parts with steel wool beforehand)

When everything’s primed, wait at least 24 hours before doing anything else (dry doesn’t mean cured; switching colors before that is a big mistake, especially when you’re switching brands) Then you can start with the black. Likewise, spray the parts in light passes until they’re completely covered. When everything’s done you can put an extra coat for completion’s sake.

The same thing apply with the drying/curing for the final coat: wait at least 24 hours before doing anything like applying decals or transfers, or doing any form of assembly or weathering. And try to drill ALL the holes you need before starting on the paint.