One Time: Hasbro pack weathering project

I’m gonna try weathering one of my Hasbro packs. I’ll keep you updated.

What I specifically want to do is:

  1. See if I can “remove” the chunky Hasbro weathering without actually removing it. I.e. I’m gonna try and see if a mix of Ebony black and Silver leaf Rub 'n Buff applied over the Hasbro weathering thinly using a cloth (and finger) masks the Hasbro weathering enough so that I can add my own on top. On Savage’s video I can’t really tell. Some parts of the pack look like he did this and other parts look like he used a Magic Eraser or even a green sponge.

  2. I don’t want to weather it insanely like ISS did for the Afterlife packs but I want to stick to what the actual 1984 props look like today, which have much finer, sharper weathering than the Afterlife packs (which kind of look like they were dragged through gravel sometimes).

  3. I want to see if I can do more with additional Streaks 'n Tips colors than the two Savage used.

I’ll post progress. Wish me luck!

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Good luck with the magic eraser I hope it works

Best of luck @One Time!!

Please keep us posted.

I just repainted my pack with Rustoleum 2X Flat Black - 3 coats and then just lightly weathered with metallic silver enamel craft paint, it so it no longer looks like it was dragged through gravel.

Thanks!

Ok update:

Painting over the Hasbro weathering with Rub n Buff is a no starter. Rub 'n Buff is a really strange substance. It isn’t like paint but it’s like a very dense, potent paint. I see why people like it, you can mix the right shade, thin it down with naphtha and a rag and apply it. If it’s somewhere you don’t want just use a corner of the rag that is pure naphtha and wipe it off. (you don’t really need to sand it off with scotch brite like Savage says, naphtha removes it, pure alcohol funnily enough doesn’t remove it as well as naphtha.)

You can also let RnB dry on a palette and then drybrush it on the pack using a cloth.

But painting over the Hasbro weathering doesn’t work. Even if you mix silver and black rub n buff exactly right, the shine is different to the pack, so it just looks like mush. You end up making the Hasbro weathering even chunkier.

So I removed all Hasbro weathering using a Magic Eraser and water. The slight dull patches it leaves are irrelevant as the pack will have a matte clear coat at the end anyway.

PS: When you are done with the Magic Eraser the original Hasbro weathering can settle in really thin patches on the pack. I removed these with a cloth and water.

Hasbro pack without Hasbro weathering:

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Is it necessary to buy all 4 of the rub n buff types?

Sorry this took so long. It was a challenge and I learned a lot.

Background:

I’ve always loved the brand new look of the '84 PP.

This was the Omni (Zeddemore hero GB1):

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This is the way GB1 packs look today:

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Obviously they didn’t age like steel or aluminium. The shell (minus thrower and end cap) looks like scuffed and scratched painted fibre glass.

This is the Afterlife pack

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This version is a lot less aged than the one seen on screen. In this one the aging is primarily on the cyclotron. The workbench pack is also aged very little.

**This was my result in trying to make the Hasbro have the same weathering as a new '84 pack while acknowledging the dings:

**

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I’d like to try Barnard/Blackbird slip/Fullers earth next.

Any questions about what I learned doing this, feel free to ask, love to help.

PS: Everything I did is 100% reversible to stock Hasbro. I didn’t drill or cut anything. (Apart from removing the Hasbro weathering)

Nice work!

I envy your Streaks N Tips collection. Can’t get that stuff anymore. I’ve had a hard time finding something comparable. (Altho someone said Tintables was a good substitute, so I’m going to try that next…)

Thanks, I really appreciate it.

I have not used Tintables before (I had never weathered anything before), so I don’t know how it compares to SnT.

If Tintables is anything like SnT, I’d advise to use a mask when you use it, and never in a place where you live, SnT was really rancid and nasty stuff that leaves a foul chemical smell for days.

Edit: I just found out it’s nothing like SnT. Sorry.

Sorry I missed this.

Personally I used all 4. Black for grime. Black + Silver and just Silver for weathering and detailing. Gold Leaf to simulate the brass legris and Antique Gold mixed with some others to simulate copper.

Same as what Savage used here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a727MV1HrmY

Hope that helps. Any other questions feel free to ask.

So here’s some comedy for you - I scrolled through the One Time’s post, and I thought every photo was a pic from the “Making Of” book. I was like, “When do we start to see what this person did?”

And then I was like, “Oh. Oh my God.”

Simply glorious.

Meanwhile - have any of Adam’s “One Day Builds” ever JUST TAKEN A DAY?!! :smiley:

I missed this reply.

Thank you so much, what a nice thing to say! I’m glad you like it.

If there’s any step you’d like advice on, feel free to ask, I’m happy to help.

I’d never weathered anything before, so it was a learning process throughout, with plenty of “learning” mistakes.

Two steps forward one step back kind of thing. I could probably do another one in half the time now, with everything I learnt. Again, I wanted this thing to look like the '84 pack may have looked like today if taken care of. Not the insane weathering seen in AF.

After weathering the trap:

https://www.gbfans.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=5004497

I tried some new techniques on the pack to make it look more like metal and added aluminum decals.

Let me know what you think.

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I also added an accurate GB1 1979 LC1 frame (which was hell to put on using the Haslab supplied connecting pieces. Not like the Rothco at all).

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That looks really good. The matte really makes it look real compared to the plastic quality they all have stock.

Thanks. I love the shiny pack look, but the tactile feel of a proton pack just warrants some use and veracity IMO.

I still need to change those 3D printed grips though.

Any questions let me know, happy to help.

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