Keep it up! I’m currently building up a “deluxe” 3D printed trap that countspatula designed… But man you really are making me want to build up a nick kit with track system…
Thanks 
Don’t worry you’ll be fine! Nicks kit is actually quite straightforward out of the box it’s only as complicated as you want to make it. If you decide to have a bit of a fiddle with it as I have and get stuck just give me a shout. I’ve pretty much found the way NOT to do it at every part of the build so far, so you can learn from my mistakes!
Are you going to start a build thread? I’d love to see how you’re getting on! The 3D printed trap looks pretty sweet! I’m glad to hear it it means I must be doing something right
Thanks for the reassurance, and the very kind offer of help - I may well have to take you up on that! It’s when I see each stage and what’s involved, it looks like so much; but a planned, patient, step-by-step approach is the way to do it, yeah…Lol yeah I’ve seen you’ve overcome a few tricky areas and it’s very educational 
Keep up the awesome work!
There are times when I’ve thought I’d bitten off more than I could chew, but trial and error is a wonderful thing! It doesn’t matter if you make a mistake, most mishaps can be easily fixed with either filler or epoxy putty. P38 and milliput have worked well for me. Once I’d got my first boob out of the way I relaxed a bit as I knew I wasn’t going to “ruin” my trap kit. I haven’t actually posted the full method and tools etc that I used in each post because I didn’t want to bore people too much; so if you want more details about anything I’ve done let me know. I’ve had to improvise my way around my lack of the correct tools for some of the build!
This is great to hear…again, it’s very reassuring. I’ve seen a few cock-ups in other build threads but they are always recovered (from what I’ve seen anyway). So very educational. I don’t actually have any tools at all yet (LOL) so it would be very handy to know what I’m gonna need, or what you have used - it certainly won’t bore me lol
it depends on what you’re planning to do with your build as to which tools you’ll need really. You’ll definitely need at least a drill of some description for a standard build up, after that it’s all down to how you’re doing your kit, but a Dremel type tool with a selection of bits will come in handy for anything more than this.
If you’re adding tracks you can do it one of two ways, cut the base down as I have, or bolt directly to the base as-is for a raised appearance like Bromies’ GB2 “Courtroom” Trap build. The metal tracks you can either cut yourself with a standard wood mitre saw as I have (mine came from B&Q!), or order custom cut online. If you plan on adding more metal bits such as the release system you will need extra metalworking tools such as a hacksaw, metal files (full size and jewellers files) and a Dremel fibreglass cut-off disc.
I’ve used imperial thread taps and matching drill bits for the fasteners throughout this build, but this is optional really as with a bit of effort the bolts will self-tap to some degree in resin. it’s easier and faster with them though and you can get them in the UK from http://www.modelfixings.co.uk. You could of course use standard UK metric screws to hold the trap sides etc together and simply fill the holes so they can’t be seen, as I think many people who have built this kit up have done.
Thanks for this really helpful info - those mentioned items are definitely on the shopping list. I will be adding the tracks and release system so I will take note of your suggestions…I’ve got the entire screw/bolt sets needed for the trap build already, I bought them from a prop supplier in the USA who has the complete assembly kits available for a screen-accurate build. I’ve also bought loads of UNC screws & washers from modelfixings for the pack build in the past, so I will definitely revisit their site for those imperial thread taps 
Just a quick one on the trap cartridge, where did you get the D-Sub connector from? Thanks!
I think it was maplin but hang fire I may have spares. I’m not 100% but I think I had to buy multipacks! I’m at work at the moment but I’ll check my bits box later
Awesome! Let me know, otherwise I’ve got a Maplin’s near my work anyway. Thanks a lot 
Did you end up going this route and putting together packets of screws? I plan on starting my Nick A Tron kit soon and would like to get the screws together now, this may save some time.
Thanks
Quick update- new battery cover drilled and finished today. As I had to make a new one anyway I thought I’d make some changes. I made this cover slightly smaller than the original, and I’ve moved the light, switch and bolt locations to look more accurate.
Quick clean up after drilling
Ready for blacking
But first I drilled pilot holes for the bolts
Going to be using these threaded inserts for most of these screws for durability
You just drill..
…then screw them in
All fits ok
Time to try the alu black on a larger plate
Looks pretty rough so it’s about right
So much metal! So much awesome!
One more thing.. Forgot to point out a few little details. I’m using an accurate switch nut instead of the more usual hex nut,and you can see my totally inaccurate bolt which helps holds the metal handle in place.
I’ve hit a snag on my build. I’m not sure it it’s over zealous sanding on my part or whether it’s just the way it is but one of my door “ears” is noticeably smaller than the other and is sitting at an odd angle.
They’re clearly not symmetrical as you can see in this picture. Has anyone else had this issue?
I’ve started work on a replacement part which i’m going to attempt to scratch build out of styrene to match the good side. I drew around the shapes and flipped them to make a mirror image copy:
Pretty close shape and size. Should look much better. Once the glue is fully set i’m going to pack it with epoxy putty to make it solid.
It’s been a month since my last update and things have not gone according to plan! I’ve had alignment issues caused by the base being out of square, which pretty much meant I couldn’t get a functioning trap until it was rectified. That’s the trouble when you add perfectly square metal parts to a resin kit, things don’t always line up as before. The only way to fix the base was to take it all apart and machine it square.
This made the base too short so I had to build it back up with styrene.
And then I started down a slippery slope. I wasn’t entirely happy with the way the cartridge stuck out more since I put a metal bottom on it, so I thought why not add a bit more styrene to lengthen the base further. I’d need to move the tracks a little I thought to myself but it was worth it as I had the filler out and they weren’t quite right before anyway.
Now, this made the bottom layer of tracks too short. That’s ok, I thought i’ll just redo the bottom layer.
Then my OCD took hold. Basically even with chopped-down base depth the cartridge sat too high in the trap for my liking. (see pic below)
So, after much deliberation, I decided to redo all my previous work on the tracks. My first tracks we’re too thick, the wrong widths (I just used whatever my local DIY place had), and were held with screws that were far too big! By switching to thinner metal tracks I could reduce the height a little and improve screen accuracy at the same time! so I started playing about with different thicknesses and bolt sizes. See how oversized the previous heads were? New size bolt is fitted on the left track for comparison:
After poring over reference pics I settled on new sizes. Ladies and gentleman, may I present hero tracks MKII- Lower and longer with wider upper tracks!
and GB1 hero for comparison
I’m pretty happy with it and it’s improved the cartridge appearance quite a bit.
Hang on there folks, i’m not done with you yet! (pressed submit my mistake!) I’ve got more to show you 
That’s all the stuff you’ve kind of already seen before out of the way it’s on to new stuff. After disastrous attempts to make my own aluminium vents, which I won’t show you to protect your vision, I stumbled across a cheat. DIY Soffit vents!
They require a fair bit of chopping and layering up before they’re thick enough to work with though
Rough first attempt
Should look the part once finished off
Not sure whether to mount the vent vertically as is correct, or just mirror the other side at the moment
Now, onto the bargraph. This bit was fun!
The cutout isn’t big enough for the more accurate bargraph so I filed it out larger.
Fits like a glove 
Finished bargraph with added 3mm white LED in lieu of inaccurate yellow standard Hyperdyne one. You can also see the extra seam detailing i’ve added to the lip of the cartridge opening to mirror the hero in this pic.
Wow you’ve come out of that ordeal with the tracks pretty well. Brilliant job with the new strips, I’m taking note!! The DIY vent was also a great innovation, looks great
…and a reminder that I need to pick up another bargraph as well.
Thanks I made work for myself there really but it’s better to redo it now, rather than wait until it’s finished and be unhappy with the end result. It’s also saved a little weight!
The vents were a chance discovery, not super accurate as the slots are too wide, but close enough I think.
The bargraph by Spongeface really looks the part. I’ve never seen one fitted to a trap which is surprising as the hero trap used the same incandescent bargraph as the hero thrower. It seemed an obvious upgrade to me!
I might seem a bit nit-picky, but where I can get things more screen accurate I think it’s worth the effort. I know I’m building at a glacial pace and it doesn’t look like I’ve done much lately (others have started AND finished their trap builds while I’ve been working on mine), but the Devil is in the detail and I’ve been doing subtle shape changes and extra little details as well as the more major choppage; so much so I don’t think I have many original parts of the kit left unmodified in some way!
Was thinking about this build while in the workshop today so thought id check in. Amazing work on the vents and bargraph! Take all the time you need! I dont want this build to end