The solution I came up with for this problem was to mount the board for the gun lights into the pack and run the wires to the wand from there. Lot’s of soldering, but it works.
Actually you’re better off going with more than half of the tube so it has something to guide it and when you have the catch sticking up from the inner tube, that will keep it from roatiating.
Ok I’ve had time to revisit this part of my build and thought I would share this. It is part inspired by busybuildr and part of my own madness. It’s not done but I hope you can see where I’m going with this…
1st there is the acrylic tube with brass rod installed with the hook on the end. The tube has an aluminum collar with a flare that is used to stop it on the barrel/tip converter
inside the barrel (where the SHCS with the brass collar is) is an aluminum disk with a cutout to guide the rod and hook
When the barrel is pulled back, the hook is guided into the bar/spring mechanism.
To release, the green lever will be pulled which will retract a line that will be fed through a brass tube as not to disturb all the other ■■■■ that’s in there WIP
Pic of tube retracted “limp mode”
I was thinking of something very similar to what nosiliT is doing here. Since there isn’t alot of room in the gun box, I was thinking of running just a rod from the clear tube to the gunbox. I can’t really put this in my current gun because I’d have to remove my trigger box from my gun to put a different green lever. But as long as nosiliT gets his design working, I will probably do this in my next gun.
the one thing that worries me is whether or not the acrylic tube will crack by hitting the collar against the aluminum tube insert over time. I would like to put a rubber buffer in between the two but have to find the right size and hardness. Also, I hate working on it because opening up the gunbox is like opening a can of snakes, please keep in mind I also have the hyperdyne gun light kit board that fits in there.
Put in a short but stiff spring so it doesn’t extend it 100% of the way, so there’ll be a slight gap between. This way it’ll only slide forward but won’t actually be abruptly stopped by dramatic force on the acrylic or whatever is attached to the acrylic.