I have actually done all three.
So I’ll just go down the list.
I just recently completed a pack built from a vacuum formed shell from Austin.
I built it for a friend’s birthday. Yes, vacuum form shells are cheaper, but they also tend to be more fragile and the details are softer. Austin’s shell is nice because he pulls them without all the detail pieces on it (such as the ribs). I ended up fiberglassing the inside of the shell to sturdy it up. Even after scratch building all the detail pieces and fiberglassing the inside of the shell, it was still cheaper then buying a fiberglass shell. It also weighs less. And unless I told you, I doubt most people would be able to tell it was vacuum formed.
So . . .
Pros: Its cheaper then a fiberglass shell and can get similar results when you know what you are doing.
Cons: More fragile and takes more work getting it to look nice.
You can read more about that build here.
Next
This is my current GB1 fiberglass and metal pack.
[](http://www.gbfans.com/images/pb/mburkit/Proton Pack 3_?action=view¤t=DSC00197.jpg)
Click to see larger image
I’m building this as my new GB1 pack. Its a version 1 Zombierepellent fiberglass shell. Its definitely sturdy. If you want crisp details and very little scratch building, I’d say go with a fiberglass shell. You basically sand, drill and paint. The real props were also made from fiberglass pulls from a mold, so if you want to go “authentic”, go fiberglass.
so . . .
Pros: Sturdy, sharp details, easy to work with.
Cons: expensive and can be heavy depending on how thick it is laid.
You can read more about my build on the GB1 pack here.
Next!
My GB2 pack is scratch built from Styrene plastic, then fiberglassed on the inside for support.
I built this pack back in 2009 and have been slowly upgrading it over the past year and a half. It’s my baby. It might not be completely accurate but I built the whole thing and I wouldn’t trade or sell it for anything. I built it as a “shell”, so it can be removed from the motheboard, just like a fiberglass shell. Its hollow, so it was easy to put lights/sound in it too. You just need to know that’s what you want to do before you start building and you should be fine.
It also helps that I have Dan Aykroyd and Ernie Hudson’s signatures on it too, haha.
So. . .
Pros: It’s as “accurate” as you can get it; can be lighter then a fiberglass shell if you i know what you are doing; you have 100% control and input into it. It can also be cheaper then either a fiberglass shell or a vacuum formed one.
Cons: Because it naturally has seams, even though strong, it will always be weaker then a well built fiberglass shell. It also takes a lot more time and hard work to build.
You can read more about the initial build of my gb2 pack here.
In the end, it depends on the money you want to spend, the skill you have at hand (and tools help), and what you are looking for by the end of your endeavor. I’ve tried all 3 different methods and got 3 good looking packs. So its up to you in the end.
