Hmmm this makes me leary of using the hammered paint now…what brand did you pick up? Did you happen to sanp a photo of your results? Im going to be paintng my shell hopefully this weekend is why i ask
No pictures… I was a tad “upset” about the whole thing and just started sanding as soon as I could.
In most places the paint didn’t give the hammered metal look at all. By that I mean that it didn’t have the little “dimples” in it. It dried silky smooth. Today I notice that the rest of the paint is flaking off the whole shell.
Could be bad primer because it flaked all the way to the shell.
Did you use automotive filler primer by chance or just plain automotive primer? There is a difference…and discovered this while i was doin some work on my ion arm. I used filler primer and spot putty to smooth out some dimples in the cast…i had ripped a piece of masking tape for something else and then my dog knocked the trash can over…so i stuck the piece of tape on the ion arm and went to clean up…when i came back to it i pulled the tape off and it took the primer and nickel paint off all the way to bare resin. Needless to say i pulled off all the coating i could with tape sanded and re primed it…chances are if the coat is already flaking you could probably use masking tape or duct tape pull most of it off if its anything like what i encountered
What brand of primer and paint did you use? I’ve never had the hammered paint go smooth on me. Is it possible that you laid it on thick?
An alternative to the Homax method I found is to use Rustoleum textured paint.
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Well, I’ll be dammed. I bought two cans of dupli-color primer and one is a high build formula and one isn’t. This could be why I had zero problems with dupli-color primer and rustoleum satin black for my aluminum parts. Seems I used the high build on the pack followed by rustoleum hammered. Cans look identical. Think the high build formula is the culprit?
I didn’t put the paint on too heavy. I did it in about 7 light passes.
I have no idea about the build formulas…the primer that went on my ion arm was picked up at wal mart. It is supposed to help fill dimples and rough spots when you sand it and specifically was called “filler” primer. Its in the trash can now…thankfully i didn’t put it on my shell…I’d have hated to be doing what you are doing now…test the two on some scrap wood or something…that would certainly tell you for sure
When I have used the hammered paint in the past I didn’t even prime the shell. I got all my holes drilled, etc. Then gave the shell a bath in hot water and dish soap. After that I let it air dry and just sprayed the hammered. The hammered paint has weird chemical reactions due to weather, other paints or primers, etc that is why I gave up on it. I ended up repainting to much stuff.
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this is the Filler primer I had that is currently residing in the trash can…
The high-build primer is a filler primer. So I’m guessing that’s where I went wrong.
I made a lot of progress as far as sanding goes. Hopefully by Sunday I’ll be ready to start all over again.
Good to know…guess we need to mark that down for future builders…“high build/ filler primer not so good for painting proton packs”
Damn bro…thats sucks…doubly so on a bigi shell…hope you get it cleaned up
Alex Newborn, I feel your pain. I feel that somehow we are now blood brothers.
So I finished sanding down my shell and as soon as I get a nice sunny day I’m going to spray it with the correct primer this time.
So… I tried the hammered paint again with the same garbage results.
The hammered doesn’t turn out as well as other builds I’ve seen using the same paint. The finish is not very “hammered” like and I’m thinking that if I primer over this layer that it will smooth out the minor hammering and it will all be for nothing anyway.
I’m not spraying it on too thick or at least I don’t think I am. Who knows, maybe I suck at hammered paint.
Most of the pack dried like this…
Silky smooth! But other spots feel like sandpaper.
There’s no way I’m ever going to be happy with this paint so once again, I’m going to sand it all off.
I’m going spray texture next time.
My suggestion: wet sand and wipe down with a tack cloth. I was having issues painting my last pack and this turned out to be the fix.
I have lost the battle with the hammered paint and I accept defeat.
Question…
Would it be detrimental to leave the layers of paint that I already have on my shell (primer then hammered), primer over that, then spray wall texture followed by the sealer, then another layer of primer then satin black?
Is that too many layers of paint? Should I just sand it down and start over?
I would imagine you could just do the wall texture over the hammered paint without priming it, but I haven’t worked with hammered paint before. Maybe try a test area on the shell?
The only downside I can think of is maybe losing some of the crisp details on the shell if the layers add up. I guess it depends on how many coats of hammered you put down. Sanding isn’t fun - but it would be easier now. It would be way less fun to do the wall texture, seal it up, prime, paint, and then have to sand it down if it doesn’t stick or if its too thick on the shell.
I have been dragging my feet on my pack due to personal issues lately but reading this thread makes me glad I have been because i will not be using hammered paint on my shell now.
I would think at the very least you would want to sand the surface of the pack, the areas you have paint on now. Not down to the bare fiberglass mind you…just to smooth the hammered texture present and take the sheen off the finish…I think if you did that then laid down the wall texture and lacquer seal coat…then go with a coat of satin black, the results would be closer to what you are looking for.
damn, that looks cool as it is.
Looking good man!! That texturing looks damn cool 