WIP-Proton Pack/wand tutorials/tips! Lights added Upd 8-24

jt001 · May 19, 2009, 3:45am

This is my first build. A long time ago I worked on some Star Wars costumes, a few drain pipe sabers… small stuff; nothing as big as this. I’ve never worked with resin parts before, so I am learning as I go: browsing here and there, tutorials, etc. I’ve tried to use some putty to fill holes, sanding, etc; so if you notice I am doing something wrong, please let me know! This thread might be of help to many newbies like me

I decided to start working with the wand, since there’s a lot of info around. Here are some progress pics. Please feel free to post. I really appreciate your feedback!

MMM parts are just great. There’s little to be done, and the castings are absolutely beautiful. Props to Colin!

The top holes were already cut, so I just took some time to clean them up a bit.

Time to drill the bar area.

Almost there…

I decided to try and fix a spot over there. I used Squadron’s green putty. It is my first attempt so it was a bit hard to get it right. I’ve heard some people mixing it 50/50 with thinner. I’ll sand that later.

That piece had a little crack. I tried to fix it with that green putty thing again.

I think this one came up a little better. I applied the putty and removed the excess. I had to wet my fingers because that thing is a bit hard to control. Your suggestions are greatly appreciated!

This part had a few bubbles. I sanded the top and decided to try my luck again!

It looks like it has a few bumps, but actually it’s pretty smooth. I tried using my fingers to apply it and then used a mini spatula I had around. Please let me know if it’s supposed to look like that after filling the bubbles!

Progress pics

What do you guys use to attach the control bar on the left side of the box?

Well, that’s it for now.

Exoray · May 19, 2009, 3:53am

The Squadron putty dries real FAST, so you have to work it fast, I usually have a cotton ball soaked with acetone handy to wet my fingers (gloved) and thin down the putty… Do make sure the acetone is on a surface it won’t eat away! You can also thin down the putty with more acetone, but acetone evaporates real fast as well so it’s not buying you much time…

Work in small areas it’s better to not overwork the putty, put it on generous and don’t worry as it sands away very easily… Give it plenty of time to dry if you put it on thick, the surface dries real fast but it won’t always be dry on the inside and will peal up when you sand it…

Looking good so far…

jt001 · May 19, 2009, 4:00am

Thanks a lot Flynn! Yes, that thing dries real fast!!!

I have some Tamiya thinner around. Can I use that as well to thin it down while I am working?

Exoray · May 19, 2009, 4:17am

Might work test it out, if not raid the wives nail polish remover Best to use pure acetone without additives but nail polish remover will work in a bind…

jt001 · May 19, 2009, 3:39pm

Thanks!!!

jt001 · May 21, 2009, 4:46am

Tonight after work I worked a little more with the wand. So far so good! The filling/sanding came out pretty good!

I drilled a few more holes, added switches and glued a few parts. The side disks and the grill were glued with epoxy. The other pieces, like the barrel, front grips, were attached with hot glue to see how will they fit and use it as a guide when I decide to glue them permanently. I’m still waiting for real clippard valves to arrive. This was put in place for position only.

I believe you might have seen tons of “WIP threads” mostly with the same stuff, but I’ll appreciate your input. Please let me know if something’s not looking good. Stuff like grips, the end barrel and attachments.. anything!

Here are some progress pics:

The stuff on the front barrel is being held with hot glue.

I wonder if I’ll have enough space for the sticker that goes on the left side of the graph bar

Is this the way it’s supposed to be?

Holding some parts in place until the epoxy dries.

That’s it for now

shodanmark · May 21, 2009, 9:36pm

Progress is looking good so far!

irricanian · May 21, 2009, 9:45pm

That’s a handy little clamping rig you have there

Great work so far, keep it going!

Oh and on the clear acrylic tip, you can shorten it to whatever you like.

jt001 · May 22, 2009, 5:59pm

Thanks for the feedback guys!

Last night I worked a little bit more: I glued a few parts with epoxy, drilled some holes… everything is coming along great! I’m almost ready to start priming, but the weather has been awful lately. I’ll be adding a real Clippard and metal knobs, so need to drill for now

Here are some progress pics:

I had to drill a bigger hole in the back to accommodate the momentary push button. Do you guys fill the back once the button is set or do you leave it open?

Taking shape now!

Andystone316 · May 22, 2009, 9:08pm

I have the same gun kit and it is high quality stuff indeed. I didn’t get quite as far as you with the assembly yet, I still have to attach the acrylic tube and the very end of the gun. Drill the necessary holes and then paint will be the next step. Maybe in my free time… Not that I have any

Paul-Butt · May 23, 2009, 12:48am

Hey, I bought the gun kit from MMM myself (excellent stuff) and was wondering what one would use to cut the clear gun tip. I was thinking I might have mine a little shorter than it came. I was thinking of using a jigsaw, but wanted to double check. Any and all help is appreciated.

jt001 · May 23, 2009, 2:07am

Earlier tonight I tried with a jigsaw, but it I found it to be a bit difficult… more than I expected. Maybe I didn’t have the right blade for the job. So, I plugged the orbital jigsaw and cut a piece to check if it worked… and it did! I then filed the raw edges left by the blade and looks great!

I’ll make it shorter during the weekend. I was afraid someone might complain because of all the noise it made! Hehe

staticbuster · May 23, 2009, 2:31am

why would you need to cut the acrylic tube, doesn’t it fit into the front barrel? seems like you could just slide it to the desired length, then glue/epoxy in place. maybe there is something i’m missing, since i don’t have one of these kits.

m_burkit · May 23, 2009, 2:56am

With the kit they are using, irricanian has basically drilled out the front PVC pipe so the clear tube can fit into it. He doesn’t drill out the whole piece of PVC, just about 3 inches into it. So if the clear tube is too long, you have to cut it down.

Bob_Wobbaz · May 23, 2009, 12:34pm

I used an irri kit and what i did to help with this was not to cut the tube, but using my dremel, sand down the tube what the clear tube goes into on the inside, so the clear tube could sink further. That way i can pull out the clear tube and have it extended if i want to, which i tend to do, i prefer the extended look to the gun

jt001 · May 25, 2009, 3:42am

Hey, that’s a great tip Bob!! Thanks!

BTW, I was following your build up thread closely, as there are some great building tips there! I noticed your pics have not been showing lately, tho

jt001 · May 26, 2009, 12:41am

Update!

I managed to get some stuff done… not much, but I got to drill some stuff, fill, sand, sand some more…

I drilled the end piece of the gun, and also cut the acrylic tip

Glued the whole thing together

I’ve always felt I was running short on space on the right side of the graph bar and since I’ll be getting Exoray’s wand light kit, I had to get rid of the frame around the graph bar anyway.

I used some epoxy putty to fill in the hole.

After sanding the epoxy. Looks rough but it’s very smooth. I’ll then apply primer, re-apply some more epoxy, sand again, and re-apply primer. Once I have the bar, or the exact measure, I’ll proceed and drill a new hole.

Applying primer to some parts that were ready to go.

Now onto the pack! This is the pack as it came outside the box. I didn’t do any drilling today. I sanded the whole thing with a 220 grit, washed it with some water to get rid of the fiberglass dust, and wet sanded the shell.

As it came out of the box.

After sanding with 220 grit.

After wet sanding the shell for a smoother finish

HGA, N-filter and Ion arm

MMM’s motherboard.

ALICE Frame. This one I got around 8 years ago. It has weird mustard yellow straps. I’d like to see if they can be replaced for the green ones. I don’t know much about this frame. I got it from ebay and I think this one will have to do. Do you know if those straps can be replaced?

That’s it for now!

Exoray · May 26, 2009, 12:50am

In all honesty just purchase another fully rigged frame, by the time you purchase replacement straps you will probably be at about the same cost… But yes straps are available… Have you considered trying to dye them, it might even them out and make them look decent, maybe a green/gray dye wash…

irricanian · May 26, 2009, 12:58am

Lookin’ good jt, you’ve been a busy builder :lol:

You know the best thing for me is seeing how you guys put these kits together with no instructions I never did an instruction manual for two reasons 1. I hate instructions and never use them myself (ie : IKEA furniture :evil: ) and 2. This way it forces people to use some ingenuity and imagination and work thru it to a happy conclusion and hopefully a good finished product. Everyone who has posted their buildups has done a great job. Props to you all!

Jose, you have a package on its way tomorrow !

P.S for cutting the clear tube, use masking tape on where you are cutting and a fine tooth hacksaw or jigsaw to cut. The tape helps to stop splintering of the acrylic. I use my disc sander to deburr the edges, or a file will do. If you want to give the tube the “frosted” look just tape off the areas you want clear and with some fine steel wool rub the exposed areas. Remove the tape and viola! Frosted gun tip1

mcreed87 · May 26, 2009, 1:54am

What type of bargraph are you going to use for the wand lights, because that is where I am stuck at. Can you link to it, becaues if I can order one I want to do it.