The only real progression made is that the lights are nearly done, just waiting for the guy at work to change the LEDs on the forward indicator. I’ve been taking a bit of a break from it after the door mishaps and that been trying to sort other stuff out.
I’m hoping to get started back up early Jan time. I haven’t really been able to spend any money on it as I’ve been saving for Xmas so haven’t been able to get any paint or filler.
Once the lights are done I will try and get a quick movie/picture up for you guys
Once again sorry for the lack of updates, just taking a bit of a break for the time being
No probs mate, I know what you mean about not having the time, I’ve been working on my trap on and off for about 6 months!! However it should be finished pretty soon and then I’ll put up the in progress shots and the finished shots.
Hey, good that you got the lights sorted…the ones I showed you that I had done failed on me, well I blew them actually because I don’t have a clue with small electrics like that…BUT I’ve found a bloke who does just what we want/need for Trap lights, I’ll post links etc when I’ve got them installed and working.
Thanks for the interest in this build Keith Well after finally getting my PC back up and running (I ended up rebuilding the entire thing, then the replacement motherboard starts doing weird things so had to replace that), and getting Christmas out the way with I am very much looking forward to getting back on with this trap. So I prodded the guy at work a little bit and he finally got the last few bits sorted for the lights and tonight I just fitted them in my trap and i’m extremely happy with them
The kit is basically a Velleman running lights that has been altered slighty. The LEDs are mounted on a seperate piece of bread board and the battery connectors run to the switch which is connected to the other LED. In all honesty I have no idea how it properly goes together but should give folk some good ideas for a cheap solution to the lights. Only downside is that they don’t come on when you flick the switch, there is another switch on the inside. Still I’m too fussed about that and am very happy with the way they came out. Check out the pics below, and the video.
Regarding the rest of the progress:
Now that this is done I can continue on with the other parts, so I shall be making a shopping list for Halfords, so if any of you UK folks know what products I should be getting and what brand (particularly filler, and what particular primer, other than that its satin black spray and silver spray). So I can get the outer casing filled, sanded, primed, painted and the plates attached. Then I’ll start working on the inner cartridge!
So its coming along (at an extremely slow pace too). In all honesty I have been spending some time working on a couple of other scale model kits:
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Just want to say thanks for the continued interest in this thread.
Really coming nice with those lights Sean, won’t be long now mate!
Okay, when I build my resin kits (1/6 scale figure models) I use 2 types of filler, sadley niether are avaliable from Halfords. I think you will only find car body filler at Halfords, which is fine but has a very limited working time. So I use Tamiya Putty which sands very smooth with wet & dry paper, and also Aves 2 part putty which has a good workling time and can be smoothed with a wet finger then sanded…but not cheap but will last you and has loads of different uses.
Primer for your resin trap is either Halfords Grey Primer or their Sandable Primer if you have pinholes/rough surface, but I recommend the Grey Primer, it’s all I use (unless I’m painting Flesh,Red or Yellow, then it’s White Primer).
Awesome, cheers for those links! I will have a peruse in Modelzone to see if I can get some of the putty if not, i’ll get straight onto eBay.
Curiously what do you use the 2 different types for, specifically the Aves Apoxie? I currently have a some Blue/Yellow 2 part epoxy (Green stuff/kneadatite).
The Aves is a 2 part putty, one being the hardener, it remains workable for about an hour. I use it to re-sculpt parts, example is a Predator helmet I’m working on, the section between the eyes needed filling and building out, or if I need to reposition an arm/leg, the Aves fills the gap and allows me to blend the parts together.
Otherwise I use it to fill larger gaps in my kits where an ordinary putty like the Tamiya would get lost, example where an arm isn’t a brilliant fit and there’s a 4 or 5mm gap…also it doesn’t shrink. I guess it’s a bit like Milliput but with a longer working time.
So I have now ‘finished’ one section of the trap (HURRAH). After making a nice shopping list I went out and picked up lots of supplies including paint, sand paper, sanders, filler and some bolts. This meant that I could continue on with some more of the trap.
I have finally finished of the battery box section of the trap! I primed it several times then sanded it using wet and dry paper, then applied a several siver coats and sanded that then applied several satin black coats and sanded them and then did one final ‘wet’ coat on it. After leaving it several days I was then able to glue on the last parts of it (the connector, light cover (Thanks Keith!) and the switch. So here it is in all its (crappy phone picture) glory:
I have also made progress on filling the joints and the screw holes on the outer section of the trap, still a little more filling to do and still need to sort out the wheels before I can start painting it.
Unfortunatly I was hoping I was going to have a TON more progress made this month, but at the start of the second week back to work after Christmas we are getting made redundant! So unfortunatly thats taken alot of enthusiasm out of me as well as trying to prepare a CV and portfolio!
I will finish this trap its just taking its time! Thanks to all those who have helped and contributed so far!
Sean now that looks excellent mate!!..Yes the wet & dry between coats really does make for a nice finish, quality build all the way mate!..Yup those lens covers are the Mutz Nutz, looks great on your battery box.
Sorry to hear about your work mate, here’s hoping you’re able to find another job pretty quick.
Unfortunatly I still don’t have a new job which sucks, but I have been able to make some more progress on the trap.
I got all the current filling done on the outer cartridge and rebuilt the front section (massive gaps and uneven sides) and the corners by the battery box hiding the seams from the different resin pieces.
I picked up a Robertson screwdriver on eBay not to long ago and to save my self some hassle decided to go with the original screws as opposed to the carriage bolts. Was a bit aprehensive drilling the holes for the wheel axles as I didn’t want to screw it up so got some assistance and it all went well. So with that I was able to get all the wheels attached and screwed in.
The next step after this was to get the base attached properly to the outer cartridge section. This was pretty simple, 4 screws were added to it and then epoxied together and left to set.
However before I did glue them together I needed to drill some holes to poke through some carriage bolts. Whilst they arn’t screen accurate they do allow me to make the cartridge removable. The reason for this is should I need to remove the battery box to change the battery or anything I have access to the 3 screws holding it in place.
Carriage bolts minus inner cartridge:
So two holes were drilled through both the outer cartridge and the inner cartridge and the bolts were then fed through, I can then secure the inner cartridge in place using wing nuts on the bolts.
Carriage bolts holding the inner cartridge in place:
Wheels attached, base glued and battery box inplace:
Hopefully that makes sense to you all. Next step from here is to sand down the excess epoxy glue and to fill/sand the screw holes. After that I can prime and paint and then attach the side panels, meaning the outer cartridge will be finished. So close I can feel it!
Just a small heads up about the velleman circuit board, you’ll want to disconnect the battery when you’re not using it, I’ve got a velleman in my ecto goggles and it eats batteries even when its not switched on
Well after finally getting my PC back up and running (I ended up rebuilding the entire thing, then the replacement 
