Maybe ask Charles Fincher if he has any tips, he rigged this one up - https://www.facebook.com/ThrowingChicken/posts/926235820814861
I had two of the LEDs for the ears not light up. They were faulty. Luckily I had some spares on hand and could easily replace them, but it’s good to know I’m not the only one with problem LEDs. The potentiometers on my board appear to be working fine.
Also, if anyone is still trying to figure out the Heavy Props giga meter electronics and not able to get a hold of Kris, my build thread might help. I think I’ve got it figured out.
Trying to figure out how this is driven.
It looks like the motor spins the Giga Meter head by friction drive (O-Ring), and you’re using the head to do a bunch of gear reduction and drive the ears? Is the gear on the aluminum tube only partially toothed (making a drive-and-retract mechanism?)
I like the design, but an electronics kit is begging for a slip ring, and not a goofy 3.5mm jack. What is the ID of the center aluminum tube?
ID of the center aluminum tube is .550" or 14mm
Hi Justin,
Do you still have any of these kits left?
Yes, they are made to order. I’ll be back in the shop after the new year.
Sounds good. I’m definitely interested whenever you get the time to put together another kit.
Contact me this weekend and I’ll get you set up.
Hey have any of you guy had problems getting the board working. I know I soldered the dome lights correctly. I’m not sure if it’s polarity or what? Any suggestions on what I should do to trouble shoot?
I appreciate it guys
What’s it doing, or not doing? I’ve started the practice of hooking my motor between the power switch and the board, that way I am getting more speed on it.
I have only a 9volt on the board. It’s heating up and getting hot really quick. The black chip behind the motor terminal… I caught before any burning or such.
The motor works just no lights. Have I done something backwards?
I brought that up to HP and he said it was normal, but I thought it was too hot, and slowing the motor down too much, which is why I hook it where I do. Splice one wire from the motor into the negative on the battery terminal, and the other wire to the positive on the power switch.
Really he said it was OK? Like it was really hot man… OK I will definitely give that a shot. Agreed the motor was significantly slower in speed.
I don’t know why the light aren’t working though… yeah it kicking my ass
**Hey is any one else getting this weird readout when they activate their display in scan mode?? 
There was no ghost present when I did the first test but it still registers well above above 5.0 gigs on the valence setting. Just wondering if residual residue is throwing off my test or if I got a faulty display?? **
accidental post please delete
Seriously though, this is a great kit keep up the great work Throwing Chicken!
Nice set up you have there. What are you using to drive everything?
Thank you, So many have come before me with great builds I wanted to do something different with the kit if I could. The display is never seen in action so I enjoy that have a bit of room for artistic interpretation. A few more weeks and I hope to have this all done, I am using a pro-trinket from Adafruit to drive the leds. I am still playing with different ideas and options depending on the space I have left. Everything is a tight fit around the moving parts so it has taken a lot of forethought and testing to make sure it all works together but it is a build for a good friend so it is a fun challenge.
If you are already using your own electronics kit, I wonder if you might be better off programing it to drive a linear actuator for the ears and lose all the provided gears. That might free up some space under the instrument panel.
True, that is a good idea, or small servo to control the ears and get a bit more animation out of them although the biggest challenge is that the center shaft and connection to the dome end up being right behind the display, leaving less than 1/4 inch which is why I had to move the display flush with the surface and skip the acrylic. Not a big deal, next time I will build with a slip ring instead of the unfortunately tall audio jack idea I had seen others do, stuff is all glued now so there is no going back unfortunately, but it all works so far so no worries.