I just wanted to share my pack build out of MDF. Since this is my first build, I would love to get everybodys advice.
I am building this with a friend, so I am hoping it will make this build easier, and less stressful.
I could really use advice on how to make the Spacer. So far we have made it with gluing MDF planks together for the thickness, and are cutting it to shape. We are having difficulty in pulling this off. is there an easier way?
I have read a lot of the builds, and seems that everyone is keeping their Spacers hollow, does this help making the straight cuts at the bottom ridge easier?
Most are hollow to reduce the weight since mdf builds tend to be the heaviest builds done. What you have looks good. Your going to need a router to make perfectly round spacer blanks. You’ll also need a circle cutting attachment or jig like this one
I didn’t see a centerhole in your spacer blanks so I’m assuming you didn’t use a router. If not, your nost likely be using a jig saw or band saw which will yield a lot of handwork to clean up.
Here is my problem/worry: I am building this with a friend, he had the idea to make the spacer solid. My worry is, is this going to be harder to cut the straight lines on the bottom of the Spacer.
So, would it be better to make this hollow, and build it up, or to continue with the cutting it out of a solid block, then bondoing/Sanding out the solid edges?
If you aren’t bothered about strength (since you are fibreglassing) then you can just cut sections out of 1/8" MDF then put them around as the flat section, then add the cosmetic plating on top.
Or if you didn’t want to fibreglass, add the 1/8" mdf up to the top plate of the spacer and screw it into wood blocks behind.
I don’t know why people cut them from multiple MDF sheets, it’s such a waste of wood.
I’ve built lots of MDF spacers (maybe 25) this is the easiest way to get good results unless you like wasting wood
I normally tack it all on with hot glue, then screw through into the block through the side, then up into the block from the bottom (if you add a panel at the bottom to screw through it will save you time as you don’t have to fill the screw holes later on) The screw hole on the spacer body will be covered up by the cosmetic plating that you add later on.
There is also an extra plate that isn’t on stefans plans that I drew in for you.
I made my spacer out of 2 pieces of 9 odd mm MDF. cut 2 of the ‘teardrop’ shapes, spaced them apart to the correct size and then cladded it with 6mm (1/8) MDF. the bottom cosmetic plates are all individual, and the rest is just formed from the 6mm MDF. a bit of BOG (putty/filler) and spray putty and it came up a treat!
Keeping it and the cyclotron itself hollow is recommended both for weight reduction and access for lighting etc
Lawrence has built a heap of these by the sound of it and certainly knows what he is doing!!
Lawrence, did you have any difficulty in getting the measurements. I know some at the bottom measurements are something like 39.3 millimeters. Did many of you actually get the 39.3, or did you round up/down?
When creating a mold with silicone, or the fiberglassing process, did any of you notice any shrinkage? If so, how much.
I try not to treat the plans as gospel. Yes they are a big help when you are stuck, but they are only fan made plans and none of them are bang on. Stefan’s are the most detailed, but that does not necessarily mean they are the most accurate there are a lot of things that are wrong in there and some things that aren’t even present.
I prefer to to cross reference Stefan’s and Sean’s plans with photos and judge what I think is the best thing to do.
If you are just building the buck to mould in silicone then there is no need to make it too strong. You could get away with just sticking the whole thing together with hot glue.
I have noticed that all of the different proton packs from all 4 busters and both the movies vary slightly. Unless you are making a specific pack IE Rays GB 1 Pack. There are some liberties you can take in order to get your pack together. this is the technique I use to judge screen accuracy. If i watch the movie (not paused but in motion) and the thing I have looks like the thing on screen i feel its close enough.
All the parts essentially came from the same moulds and masters, just assembled in different ways. As with any hand made parts there will be slight variation.
When I was planning on building my last set of packs I was going to use mdf because I saw a build that used 1/2" inch mdf in layers to make the spacer. The inside was hollow for weight and space for electronics and the outside of the shell was skinned with modpodge. If I was to go back and make an mdf shell I would do it that way.
If you are working with mdf, a router is a great tool to have so you can make exact copies of each piece by making a pattern to route from; and what better piece to do that with than the spacer? Seriously if you don’t have a router you’re already kicking your own butt.
