My first real pack build

[pwright]

Hey guys (and girls),

I am one of the newer members here. I have loved Ghostbusters since I was a kid and always wanted a proton pack but I never dreamed that anyone would be crazy enough to figure out how to build one. I had the blue plastic Kenner pack when I was a kid and all the toys from RGB. This year I needed a quick costume idea and I figured that dressing as a GB would be easy - get a flight suit and belt and I’m good to go right? Well - then my wife talked me into building a proton pack. She thought I could whip up something quick for Halloween. I found the pack plans section and it was all over. I 3 days I had build a foam pack that was far from screen accurate using Norm’s plans but it was still awesome. I decided then that I would make a real pack so here goes nothing.

First - a few pics of my foam pack. I know - there is a lot wrong with it but it was cheap and quickly assembled with mostly foam and crazy glue.

[pwright]

And now for the main event. I picked up a beautiful shell from pchrisbosh. The bumper, crank knob, and clippard are from Wiz and I have a set of Crix resin parts due in any day. The build will be slow because I have 3 young children (4, 2, and 3 mos) but I will add to this as I can.

First up - laying out the parts I have:


I attached the Clippard after finding the center point and drilling/tapping for 8-32 SHCS. For those of you starting out - I am using the following chart as a reference for screw sizes: Official Pack and Thrower Screw List (GB1) - Proton Packs - GBFans.com



Then I set out to attach the bumper. Man this was awkward. I ended up redrilling two holes that were too low but here is the final result.




Finally, I tapped a hole at the center of the Crank Generator for the Crank Knob. The crank knob is currently drying after spraying it with primer gray. I will mount a potentiometer once I get a chance to pick one up.

[pwright]

I just got a big box from Crix with all of the following + light and sound for the pack. I’ve got a lot of work to do. Next up - attach MOBO to shell and start working on sanding and attaching resin parts to the pack.

[Venkmans_Swagger]

Good start. Bosh’s shells are sick. Good luck with your build

[Radical_Gordon]

Awesome.

Looking good, I love seeing it all come together in progress threads.

[Grimmy_GB]

Keep up the great work

[pwright]

Thanks Grimmy. Your posts have been extremely helpful and I’ve been following your build (as well as many others) very closely for pointers.

[pwright]

Small update for today. I have to build when all 3 kids asleep which isn’t often

Installed vacuum line. Resin piece and shell both drilled and tapped for 1/4 20 1.5 in SHCS.


Installed Clippard barbs onto base of Injectors. Both holes were drilled and tapped for 10 32 and these screwed in perfectly.


Absolutely loving these resin parts from Crix. Extremely easy to work with. I’ve been much more nervous about cracking the fiberglass shell when drilling but so far so good. I’ve been using the step bit recommended by many other members who have gone before me.

[pwright]

Happy Thanksgiving. I should have a new update tomorrow. In the meantime; Grimmy GB - can you post any pics of the inside of your shell at the V hook mount? I am using the same shell and V hook but having a tough time. The shell is so thick that I can’t get the reinforcement plate to line up inside the shell when I place the V hook so far towards the front of the gun mount block. Did you just omit the reinforcement plate? Thanks so much.

[Grimmy_GB]

Hey pwright…

I was gone a good chunk of the day, but to answer your question, you have a few options:

1. You can grind down the shell with a rotary tool. When I did it, I ended up using the Bondo with long strand fiberglass to smooth and level out the area.

2. As you suggested, you can leave off the plate but I would suggest using it.

3. And I wish I had thought of this one first, use longer screws. You’ll still need to level out the fiberglass so it doesn’t shimmy/rock.

If you still need pics, let me know and I’ll see what I can do for you.

[pwright]

Thanks Grimmy. I guess it’s time to go buy a dremel. I knew I would need it to cut my N filter anyway.

Here’s my small update before work:

I’m kind of working from the bottom of the pack up. I was able to get the injector tubes, beam line, and filler tube installed. I ended up having to redrill holes for the beam line because I didn’t realize it was placed so far anteriorly at first. All are attached with 1" 1/4 20 screws. The filler line has to be attached with a flat head screw due to this being one of the thinner parts of the shell. I’ve decided to dry fit everything on the shell first and then pull all the parts off for mounting of the shell to MOBO and painting. I think when it comes time for final assembly, I will epoxy down all the parts in addition to screwing them down for the strongest fit I can achieve. I want this thing to be as bulletproof as possible since I’ve got young children. Quick question for anyone who can answer - how large of a hole should I drill in the PPD for the blue tubing? I had thought about just getting an extra Clippard barb to install here since the loom would cover it up.

[csullivan1980]

Are the brass clippards in the injectors a common way to secure the hoses? I have two left over and like what you’ve done there.

[pwright]

Honestly not sure. I’m pretty new to this. It just seemed like a good way to secure them and I figured the loom would cover it up. I’m thinking about picking up a few more for the other end of the red and blue tubing from the injectors where they attach to the plate along the side of the synchronous generator as well as for the PPD. I’m waiting on a package with all the tubing and loom for the pack and will test it out on the injectors first. If it works well, I’ll use it in the other places. If not, just unscrew the barbs and drill the injector holes out a little bigger to insert the tubing.

[Venkmans_Swagger]

Not to butt in or anything, just trying to help…

The hose barbs on the end of the Injector tubes isn’t accurate to the screen used packs BUT many people have used them there and its worked well. It really is a case of personal preference.

If you like it then go for it

[pwright]

Thanks so much for the reply Venkman’s swagger. Not butting in at all - that’s exactly the answer I was looking for. I’m not so concerned with the manner of construction being 100% accurate as I am the final product looking as close to 100% accurate to the observer and being as functional as possible. I’m trying to make this look like a GB1 hero pack but I didn’t have the guts to do aluminum on my first real pack build. Love bishopdonmoguls “plain vanilla” (really anything but) build and trying to go for a similar feel. My electronics will be nowhere near as extravagant though.

[Venkmans_Swagger]

@pwright

Thanks so much for the reply Venkman’s swagger. Not butting in at all - that’s exactly the answer I was looking for. I’m not so concerned with the manner of construction being 100% accurate as I am the final product looking as close to 100% accurate to the observer and being as functional as possible. I’m trying to make this look like a GB1 hero pack but I didn’t have the guts to do aluminum on my first real pack build. Love bishopdonmoguls “plain vanilla” (really anything but) build and trying to go for a similar feel. My electronics will be nowhere near as extravagant though.

You’re welcome mate, glad I could help. Its nice to put your own stamp on a pack so I totally understand what you’re aiming for. With a Bosh shell and Crix resin parts (cast off Vincenzo’s Alu parts) you’re onto a winner. Keep up the good work and you’ll have what you want in no time at all. Looking forward to seeing more

[bishopdonmiguel]

Build is looking great!

[pwright]

Thanks bishopdonmiguel! Sorry for the spelling error of your user name earlier. Your pack has been a major inspiration.

Speaking of which - I decided to use some milliput to fix an errant hole for the bumper after seeing what you did with it in your thread. Mixed up the milliput and filled the hole both internally and externally, taking care to smooth down the edges.




Much better. Added the brass washers to the bumper screws as well. After everything is dry fit and pulled off the pack, I will sand this patch down so it will be even less noticeable. Truth is, the bumper will hide it anyway. I just wanted to have a nice surface to paint on the inside.

I also drilled out the holes for the tubing from the injectors and installed clippard barbs to receive the tubing. I have ordered 2 more barbs as I used the barbs from the injectors to dry fit the holes. While it’s not screen accurate, I think it will be more sturdy for my purposes.

Finally, I drilled out and dry fit the cyclotron elbow. I’m using the SMC 4mm elbows and plan to paint them grey to more closely match the screen used legris elbows.


That’s it for today. I’m working this weekend so I may not have another update until late next week.

[Venkmans_Swagger]

Taking shape nicely. Good job on the fix up of the Bumper hole

[bishopdonmiguel]

@pwright

I just wanted to have a nice surface to paint on the inside.

I like the way you think! What’s it gonna be? Maybe a shimmering gold?

Great job with the Milliput. And I’m curious to see what you think about the barbs on the Injector block once you’re finished. While not screen accurate, the barbs do keep the split loom from sliding around. I would have liked to utilize them but I was concerned about the strength of the block on my shell. Seemed to have some nasty air pockets.