My metal thrower build and pack modifications

Equipment Proton Packs
1

Well now, after my thrower had some unfortunate accidents, I’ve getting my thrower built and doing some upgrades to my pack.

Main thrower body is by Vincenzo330

Acrylic tube, trigger tip, gun knobs, vhook for guntrack and pack, and guntrack by momeraths24

Front and rear cylinder by Ejgunth87

I think the rest of the GBFans shop

Electronics in the wand is the kit from GBFans

I don’t think I’m painting the side discs just to be different. :slight_smile: I 've got a little more to do on the gun, not sure what happened when I drilled the hole for the screw for the front cylinder, but it raised the surface up so it sits oddly on it, so just need to get that fixed up. It can be kind of seen from the picture.

Will hopefully get the shaft collar, lever and shook soon.

As far as the pack goes, I’ve replaced the speakers with better ones, took out the exoray lights to put in GBFans kit, and took out the sound chip I was using to again replace with GBFans kit :slight_smile:

I also noticed my alice frame cracked where the upper mounting bolt goes through the frame, shame, I think when it was assembled it had play in it which allowed the fracture. Got an LC1 on order from GBFans, I’ll just swap the straps out.

That and my trusty Hanger 9 battery won’t keep a good charge to run the electronics, I know they work, and I just tried to recharge it the other day and it said nope, too bad. So waiting on the blue brick to arrive, plus some parts to make it easier to wire in.

Been thinking about drilling a hole up into the n-filter to stick the extra led from the GBFans light kit up it so it has a place.

I’ll probably leave the rest of the pack alone, I could replace some things with more metal, like HGA or the piece behind the Ion Arm, but I’m happy with it. :slight_smile:

2

Got these in..

I was going to take out the LED from the battery and re-route the switch, but so much glue in there, little different that others I’ve seen, so I taped it back up heh.

How I decided to mount my LED’s:

My motherboard layout going to put two more screws in for the sound board, so I can’t accidently pop it out while adjusting sound

Guess this is what happens when you do a bad job at mounting the alice frame to the board, note I didn’t do this, my pack was originally made by someone else..

Just a little bit bigger hole than needed… Going to use a smaller bolt for one…

3

The pack frame is an easy fix; the cross parts are just steel. If you have a welding shop nearby they could zap that up pretty quick; one build I did a few years ago I didn’t feel like drilling any holes so I just welded the frame to the 20 gauge steel motherboard! :roll:

4

I already got the new LC frame so might as well use it. I might repair this other one at some point in time, won’t be tossing it. I probably should’ve fixed it before it broke, it was bouncing some and I think that caused the stress. If I know someone who can weld I’ll have them take a crack at it.

5

I’m almost sure the frames are aluminum, not steel.

6

I’m almost sure.

Looks good so far. Love the thrower. Can’t wait to see how it looks with none of the knobs painted. That’s something I’ve been debating on myself.

7

Yeah I though they were aluminum as well. But I’ll just chuck it in storage. I’m just waiting on a few more things to arrive then I’m going to paint it up after I get them attached how I want them.

Any tips on what I can use for a bargraph bezel? I got until mid March to finish this, but I am uncertain when Spongeface will get more in stock. I missed out on it as I didn’t think of the bezel when looking for parts in the for sale section.

8

I used the side of a cd case. Looks pretty darn good :slight_smile:

9

That’s actually a really good sounding I

idea. Gonna have to try that!

10

I’ll give that a try if I need something in the interim, depending on when Spongeface gets restocked.

11

image

Got these in from umoribawar / Freaky Geeky!

Got everything I need but the bargraph bezel but I’ll figure something out until Spongeface gets more made.

Should be spray painting tonight!

12

Got the new frame mounted up to the motherboard, got the electronics put back onto the board, I had them all off. Was fun putting the kidney pad back onto the frame, thought I had memorized how it went on, haha, I ended up watching a youtube video on getting the buckle right.

Hey, look at the much smaller bolt on the Alice frame! It also just barely fits into the hole now too, it’s nice and such, no play in it! Amazing what you can do if you spend just a little time…

Not to mention the nice fresh coat of flat black on the motherboard.

Going to use this nifty little adapter instead of cutting my battery’s plug, just going to wrap some tape around it so it does not come loose.

And here we have some nice, black thrower parts, fresh from the painting line!

I plan on mounting the battery to the Alice frame versus inside of the pack, just my preference, I want to be able to get to it without opening the pack up.

13

What paint did you use on your thrower?? That is perfect.

I just got done painting my TB/IB with rustoleum satin and it came out WAY to glossy!!

14

image

I had some initial worries as the primer didn’t like the heatsink too well, but the paint went on beautifully.

Couple of the younger guys at my local Ace want to see this when it’s done as I’ve taken pieces in to get screws, nuts, the spray paint, etc.

15

Looking good man! :cool:

When you mount the new lc1 raise the halfmoon mounting hole up the by quite a bit. Your current one is way too low. Plus use a 1/4 phillips button head screw rather than the thicker bolt you currently have, more accurate and less chance of it ripping through the middle frame :roland:

16

Thanks. :slight_smile:

Actually I already have the new frame mounted to my motherboard, did not use the half moon mount but that’s ok, I used a spacer like the two lower bolts. I definitely used a smaller bolt this time around, no idea what the original pack builder was thinking using one that large bolt in the frame itself, it works fine for the two below as there are no new holes cut.

I’m not going for any real kind of accuracy here, close enough works for me. It’s going to show when I mount the side knobs up and they are not painted, just wanting to try some things out. I’m going for close to accurate, but with my own touches. :slight_smile:

17

I that thing is cool, ive never seen one before.

However if anyone is interested in this but cant find that type of adapter, you could also use a female adapter with out any specified fitting to the other side, (not sure the p ropper word for that) then just solder some extensions on the pos and neg terminals, use heat shrink and your good.

18

Actually Amazon has them

This is a prime eligible:

This is not, but the shipping times for the US from the company makes me think they are over seas:

http://www.amazon.com/Camera-2-1x5-5mm-Female-Power-Adapter/dp/B005CMP434?keywords=cctv+female+power+adapter&tag=gbfans-discourse-20

I went with the Prime one as I have prime and it was just a couple bucks more.

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19

Got a little more done today..

First up, guntrack with shook on, plus cover to the thrower.

Rumbler hiding in a PVC coupler…

That battery ain’t going no where, I tried moving it lol.

Next two are how I am attaching my wiring to my frame. I wrapped electrical tape around where my adapter plugs in and put some on where the wires go into the adapter.

Front handle assembly!

TB/IB with some stickers and switches.

Heatsink and some knobs attached to the gun body, and front cylinder.

Beware, unpainted side knobs!

20

The flat krylon looks really good and I haven’t seen it used on a gun before. After my TB/IB debacle with rustoleum satin, I stripped the paint off and went to ace and bought krylon flat, krylon BBQ, rustoleum flat, and rustoleum BBQ. Just got done spraying a sample of each on some aluminum sheet.

I really don’t know WHO got the bright idea to use satin on their guns. It seems like the popular new trend…it is NOT accurate.

I’m excited to see how the flat looks compared to the BBQ.