Nick-A-Tron Thrower Build

[Michael_Clifton]

I been working on a new thrower for my friend. I bought the whole thrower kit from Nick-A-Tron. It has been a slow process but worth it. I wanted to post some photos on here.


A lot of my aluminum pipes I got from https://www.speedymetals.com/

The diameter I used is the same as in my Throwing Chicken Build. You can look on there for the pipe sizes.

The part for my light kit bar graph I got from R2Devo. He has it where you can order it from Shapeways now.

Shapeways & Thangs Marketplace for 3D Creators - Shapeways Blog


Here was a interesting way that I mounted the instrument box. I actually took a dremel and took off the fake Hex Head bolts and then replaced them with my own. Then I tapped the resin gun body and mounted it using the bolts. Works great.


Mounted the trigger box by taking some bolts and tapping them into the instrument box. Then I cut the heads off so I could put nuts on them.


Heat sink I am going to mount from the inside. Tap the hex head bolts into the resin heat sink.



This is what I have so far. More to come. I know I am bad about posting more step by step photos. They are real aluminum knobs. I think it makes it look more authentic then the resin ones. I got them from umoribawar on here. Real Clippard Valve. The other parts got from the GBFans Store. That’s what I have so far. More to come.

[nick-a-tron]

Looking good so far!

[Michael_Clifton]

@nick-a-tron

Looking good so far!

Thanks Nick! I know your kit is gonna look awesome when I am done!

[Michael_Clifton]

Well worked on the Thrower a little bit more tonight. I built the front handle, My main go was to be able to make the Front Handle rotate,


I took a dremel and dremeled out the front nub where the handle mounts too.


I did this so this electric conduit connector could fit on there.


It fit on there nicely.


You can see that I cut a sleeve of aluminum to fit over it. Like on the throwers.


Now I can secure it with screws… Plus it looks like the same as on the original throwers. I bet you are wondering about the notch. Well I used the same method that Throwing Chicken uses on his throwers to rotate the handle.


I screw the set screw down and it fits into the slot. It also allows the set screw to rotate in the slot while keeping the handle from pulling off. The back part I also used 5 min epoxy to secure it. Works great. Then you can see how I am holding the handle on using the Hex Head Screw.



On the front I epoxied the parts on again and used a Hex Head Screw to secure the front of the handle. This time I angled it so it would go into the handle.



Now I have the handle attached and it rotates… Just like magic!



There are some minor things I want to do to finish it up bet it will soon be ready for painting and then on to installing the light kit.

[nick-a-tron]

That front handle is perfect!

[Letmebleed75]

This is a fantastic looking build.

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[gbrob]

Looking great so far.

[Vincenzo330]

Off to an awesome start!

[Michael_Clifton]

Thanks guys! I am glad it is coming along. I was walking around Lowe’s tonight with my Aluminum Sleeve and Clear Acrylic Tube. I stumbled across this that would fit perfect.


It fit perfect like I said. The only problem was that I modified the gun body for the Electric coupling. So I used some Magic Sculpt on it. After it is done I will sand it down and re drill it.


So I get something like this here!



On the front collar where the Acrylic Tube goes in I saw a post on here where Throwing Chicken cut an aluminium can and was able to use that on the collar. I just cant’t find that link right now. So as of now more to come…

[Michael_Clifton]

I just have these pics from TC.

Hoping I can figure this out.

[Michael_Clifton]

Thanks TC for the info on how to do the aluminum trick!

@ThrowingChicken

Yeah I just cut a strip out of it that is the right height, then wrap it around and slowly trim off the excess until I’ve got it where I can wrap it around the collar without it overlapping at the ends. Then I glue it down with epoxy and hold it together with tape while it cures. After that I sand the end so that the aluminum strip is flush with the resin collar, and then I putty and smooth out the seam line. I then paint the whole thing silver and use sand paper to remove the paint from the aluminum, leaving the resin and the seam alone.

So this is kinda what I will be looking at. I just need to epoxy the strip on the pipe and then paint the tip and the inside silver.


[Michael_Clifton]

Well I ran into one snag, The resin heat sink I had been using got damaged. All the shifting around and drilling and moving it here and there damaged it. So I replaced it with my metal one I have been saving for a rainy day. Well for if I ever did a metal build. Ohh well.

I had to magic putty the holes and when it is dry redrill them to match the metal heat sink.

Otherwise it is coming along great and will be ready for painting soon.

Please don’t mind the mess, this is a construction zone after all. Plus I will add the fake weld lines on the back handle and front. Plus some other spots.

[Michael_Clifton]

Alright, I got off my ass and have been doing more work.

Ok, I wanted to make sure the front part was secure. So I used my 5 min epoxy on it.

Then I went and created my fake welds. I used my Magic Sculpt and a paper clip.

Now I was creating this gun for a friend but I didn’t have enough time to develop a popping mechanism with the green lever. So I inserted a spring I obtained from a toilet roll holder. Then I tapped a screw into the acrylic tube. Then I cut a crude channel in the PVC pipe. I puta little notch at the end so that when it is retracted I can twist it and it will stay in the retracted position. Then when I actually twist the handle it is enough force to pop the acrylic tube.

I created a few fake welds on the front handle assembly.

Now it is time for painting. I use the Rust-oleum paint. Here is my line up.

My Primer Coat on the parts. I ran out of Grey primer half way through and ran to Walmart to pick up more. I didn’t realize that the other primer I picked up was Black.

Then the silver coat to simulate an aluminum body. It works well because when your black paint gets scratched the aluminum underneath shows to simulate weathering.

Notice that I painted the handle with a brown primer. That way when the black weathered it would show that underneath. Also I used a shiny gloss black on the handles compared to the Satin Black on the rest of the thrower.

So far so good. Now here is the finished product with the parts all reassembled and with partial electronics in it. I would also need to finish up with decals too.

Also one thing I didn’t mention was I realized that when I epoxied the Ears and the back block on the front handle it was off. So I actually ended up ripping it off and re-epoxying it on again. Details make the gun. Your not gonna be perfect but you can always be close.

[FortCollinsGB]

The spring mechanism was genius. Looks really good. Great job!

[Michael_Clifton]

Well I have done more work on this build and actually finished it. I ended up installing the GBFans wand kit. So everything in this pack is from GBFans. Here is the thrower added to the Proton pack.

[Michael_Clifton]

Here is a demonstration of the whole pack on YouTube!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVzZOlXjwZw

[Lundo12]

Do you have any pics or can you give a bit more info on how you set up the crank gen knob as you did and what you used? That’s an awesome set up!

The pack itself is also beautiful.

[Michael_Clifton]

@Lundo12

Do you have any pics or can you give a bit more info on how you set up the crank gen knob as you did and what you used? That’s an awesome set up!

The pack itself is also beautiful.

Thanks for the compliment. I don’t really feel like taking his pack apart to show you but I an show you on mines since I am doing the same thing. You need a “10K-Ohm Audio Control Potentiometer with SPST Switch” which I got from Radio Shack. Here is a web link.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062298#

Mount it in your hole.

From the photo below you can see the top three connections are for the volume. The two connectors that have red is your switch. You would take one of your two leads from the battery and run it through the switch. I used the Positive.

You can see the left three terminals on the GBFans SoundBoard which are the same three you hook up to on the Potentimeter. Then since the sound card has a built in Potentiometer, you need to cut those leads that are on the SoundBoard. The Sound Board manual explains this.

Hope this helps.

[Lundo12]

Thanks for the how-to! I’ll be able to replicate that with the provided info. Thanks again.

[nick-a-tron]

Great job!!