107-Studios Proton Pack Thrower Build

[mr0072003]

HI everyone. So I have been trolling the boards for a few weeks now, and have been glued to almost every build thread. I have to say that the “Search” Function here on the GB site is very good and I was able to find most of my answers without having to post and ask. In that research I realized that the threads with pics and How To Type info was invaluable to me. It was like all I had for references and thought that I should do the same for the next guy. With recents threads about how hard its getting to get stuff, I wanted to let those know with a little patience and asking the right people you can get a lot done. I decided to start with a thrower as my first step into the GB World. I hope this shows others my commitment to this hobby and the boards.

Ok enough of that. Thanks to Joe Luna and Don from SoCal Busters they have given the oppertunity to purchase a proton Pack Wand. (First of its kind from what they told me) a Fiber Glass Shell with Metal Handles and Pre Drilled Front handle with Twist. I have to say it’s very nice, and glad to be one of the first to get one on the open market. This is in no way a 107-OFFICIAL Build Thread, but I have been in close contact with both and can assure you that they have helped with any issues I have had. For that I wish to thank them by putting this thread out there and get some love to them. OK here we go.

HOW TO - Build your 107-Studios Thrower (at least how I did)

Things you will need

1 - Dremel with various small grinding and Cutting bits

2 - JB Weld (Quick Drying is what I used, but you can use the regular stuff too)

3 - VICE - This proved to be very helpful

4 - Drill with various Drill bits

5 - Sand Paper - 400 and 800 Grits

6 - many Hex bolts ( I will try and list them as we get those steps)

Part 1 - Arrival and Preping

**1 **- So you just recieved your 107-Studios Fiber Glass with Metal Tubing from the mail. Yippy!

It will come Priorty Mail all nicely Bundled.



When you first take it out of the Box this is whats inside.


Took all the extras out of the bag to see what I had


Here is what you will get:

1. Fiber Glass Shell with Metal Sleeve attached already. Holes pre-drilled

2. 2 Metal Pipe Handles (front Pipe has holes pre-drilles with Hex Bolts to attach)

3. 1 Metal base plate

4. 2 Light Caps - 1 Red and 1 White

5. 8 Resin Parts

   • Clippard Valve

   • Trigger Box

   • Rear INstrument Bar

   • Heat Sink

   • Round Cylinder that goes Under instrument Bar

   • Round Cylinder that goes in front of Thrower

   • Both Cosmetic pieces that go on either side of the fron barrell

2 - Now that we know what we have, lets get started. First thing I decided to tackle was dremeling out the

holes and slots on the thrower. There are several areas to get to.




This is what I used to start grinding with.


Once your done with the holes, we can use a smaller grinder for the VENT parts.


Now that the small holes are drilled out and the vents done, use a small file set to clean up the edges.


Here some Close ups of the Clean up with the files.


3 - Then it was time to get to the Big Hole for the Rear handle Bar. I sadly did not take pics of this (kicking self)

as I was just to into it at this point. After I cut the pre-defined hole I realized that the pipe was not fitting.

You can see here.


SO i whipped out the Dremel and grinded down the side a bit more to open the it a bit more. You can see I made my self

a guide to help me not go to far out.


And Whola! It fits now…


4 - Ok so we got the rear handle in but now I see that the bar is a bit off. Check It! Its going upwards a bit


So I got the grinder out again and grinded the top part of the inside of the box like so.


Grinded and tested a few times before I got it right, but you can see it now straight. (For those wondering, if

I comprimised the integrity of the strength of the box, I assure I did not). This thrower box is VERy Steardy!

Much Better now!


OK that was it for Day 1. Any and all critiques are highly encouraged.

[jessejames51]

NICE!!! i expect to see more tomorrow, get crackin

[mr0072003]

**Part 2 - **

Ok so the next day came and I started early.

1 - Drilling holes into the base plate and the thrower base.

So i got a drill and drill 5/32 bit and went at it. I did it by eye, but I suggest going in a little closer to the inside of the box.

This will help to add nuts to the back (if you want).


Once you have drilled your holes on the metal base plate, place it against the base of the thrower and using

a sharpie marker, mark where you holes need to be drilled into the base of the trower. Whats nice is the thrower

already comes with a metal plate to drill into that is fabricated into the thrower.


once your holes are marked begin to drill. You can see my progress here. (ONly 4 holes are shown, you need to

drill 6 holes altogether.)


Here are all the 6 holes, and one extra as I did not eye it correctly so be careful.


And finally make sure all your holes line up and you should be able to bolt on your hex Screws.

I used a 8-32 cap screws 3/8 length size


2- The next thing I noticed was the edges were sharp and easly cut someone or something.


So using grinding tool, I rounded out the edges. Much Safer now!


**3 **- NOw that the plate is good to go, go ahead and remove it for now, as you need to access the

inside of the thrower for this step coming up.

The Front Cylinder - This will go in the front of the thrower, next to the barrell. (Again I used

venky’s plans that are on the GB WiKi site as reference). I new I did not want to glue it on, so I

opted for a screw on method.

First was to sand down the resin and get it nice and even



Next I got a aluminum wooden groumet in size 8 and grinded down the edges. (I did not want to screw into the

resin and potentially make a mess of things.


Then I drilled a hole in the Cylinder and used some JB Weld to insert the grinded down groumet and let it set.


Next I Drilled a hole in the base of the thorwer and centered where the screw would be. I passed the

4- 40 cap screw through the hole and bascilly screwed on the cylinder.


Now I can remove and put back on with

no issues.


I even JB welded the Screw base in the inside of the thrower so that it does not come loose in the

future.


4 - Now since we are in screwing things on, lets screw in the Clippard 701 Valve Resin casting provided in the kit.

First we need to drill out the holes were we need screw in the valve.



Not sure what I used but i think it was a 7/64 or 1/8 bit. Just make sure it can easly go through the hole. Dont want to break your

stuff now.


Next lets sand down the base so its nice and even.


Now I got some bolts with nuts from my local hardware store - 4-40 '1


Pass the the bolts through and pushe it through the holes you drilled in Part 1.



Inside of the base use the nuts to screw the valve in place.


Please note that you do not have to drill out the center hole if you are using the resin kit. I will be replacing this with the

real valve and will update once I get it. I figured I would post this so that others that go with this kit and choose to stick

with the resin, they know what to do.

Forgot to a take a pics of it mounted, but you can see it here mounted! (One other thing, you have to removed the vlave to get to the hex bolts

that are holding the barrel in place, something I have not got to in the build thread)


Ok thats it for now, I have to cook dinner, so will post something tomorrow. Hope this is helping other n00bs like me out.

[mr0072003]

**Part 3 **

1 - Ok lets start back up. Next up will be the Heat Sync that needs to be added to the side of the base of

the thrower. This part will come with the kit. You can see that the holes on the synce have not been drilled out.


Using size 4-40 1/2 length to screw the sync to the Base. I am not trying to go all HERO or EXACT so I just

building my thrower to my own liking using a GB1 as base. With that I decided to screw into my heat sync from the outside instead

of the inside of the thrower like the on screen used ones.


2- Now lets work on the handles. (Before we start, if you plan on runing the wires from the inside of the handles to the

buttons in front of the barrell, then skip this, because this way you will not be able to remove the grips.)

I got my handles from GBSHOP (Thanks AJ), and they are great. The Quality is top

notch and they are cast from the OG GB Proton Packs, so thats pretty cool.

We have to clean up the handles as there are some flaring that needs to get sanded down and evened out.

This is even mentioned to do on the GBshop page.


next sand the end of the handles.


One side needs more sanding than the other.


Now lets sand the inside of the grip so that the JB weld will have something to grip to. We also want to sand

down the aluminium pipe as well so there is a good adhesion can be achieved with the JB Weld.


Again I forgot to take pictures of the JB Weld all mixed up and placed on the grip, so all I have

is a pic of the grip already in place. Repeat to the other side for the front grips.


3 - Now its time to cut the rear handle bar so that there is room for wiring electronics in the future.

This you will need a Dremel with a Carbon Cutting disk.


Your Disk may end up lookng like this after a run.


but once your done, and the pipe placed back inside the box, it should look like this.


This pics shows the JB welded in place, as I forgot to take a pic of it cut before I glued it in place. As you can see, I may not have cut enough of the handle near the vents, and now that its JB Welded on, it may be hard to remove now, so to others n00bs like me, measure a bit better and cut more off. If i get Brave I may give it a go, but for now im leaving it.

Thats it for now. I have more to post, but have to leave for home now. More updated later tonight

[mr0072003]

Part 4

BEfore we continue…

Just wanted everyone to know and for those who are following (if any) I am not trying to go for an EXACT replica of the Proton Wand from the movie. What I mean by that, is that I am not going to go crazy trying to get the EXACT part. Example - I got a real Clippard 501 Valve instead of a 701, its almost the same and surely the same size and it was available and for a good price so I got it, and it’s approved to use on one of the build plans on the Gb wiki page. Same for the BEST parts, yes they are out there but not always available. If the price is too muchI will pass and wait for something better priced or when available. If its not that major of a part for you or dont want to wait and have that hold up the rest of the build, then get a cheaper alternative. In my case I got resin Knobes over aluminum ones. It’s just not worth it for me (right now) and they are not availble as of this build, so I will be getting whatever fits my needs at the time of the build and if it will not make my stuff look totally cheap (to me at least), I will get it. BUT I am building my thrower, (and showing how I did it in this thread), so that these parts CAN later be easly removed and UPGRADED to better ones. So I am leaving room for me and other that follow to get better stuff.

I feel better about posting this too as there was a thread out this week about what makes a good pack etc. And one of the mods responded to my post and basically told me to not worry about what others think and to relax (in a good way of course) and that this is not about who spends more … and just basically said to HAVE FUN and build what you like and try to give back to the community by sharing your expereinces building. With that I felt better about posting my build

and not going to worry that I’m going to get snubbed. I am not claiming this to be the best build, it’s just another build by a n00b, that all.

Just glad to be here with a set of great guys and gals that have been very helpful to me from the Jump… Ok enough mushy Sh*&%

So we have glued our handles in place and now need to work on attaching the rear handle to the thrower.

1- The first thing I did, as you can see in the last pic of my last post on this thread (please refer to it as I do not want to post it again making this thread forever to load). Was to put JB WELD (quick setting) on the top part of the rear handle that will be inside of the thrower and push it against the top of the box, so that it

can be held in place. This is just to hold it place so we can add JB weld to the the outside section with out it moving

around. Let that set for a few hours,but you have to hold it in place for the first 5 min or else the weight will push it down a bit. (Important if using this KIT, here is what I was told by Joe Luna via e-mail “The rear handle should stick out of the gun body 8.5”. Measure from the end of the handle to the “weld” on top of the tube. As for attaching the handle. There are 2 ways you can do it. You can use the putty and putty it in or you can drill 2, 1/8" holes through the side of the body into the body and attach it with rivets. The putty will give you a clean GB1 look and the rivets are more of a GB2 look.") So please follow those instructions as they are directly from the 107 studios crew.

2- With that info now, I decided to use Joes idea about the putty but also try useing some JB WELD too,

as I have some paranoia that the handle was going to break off from the base. Ok with the base of the handle “tacked” to the inside of the thrower base, we can make some more JB Weld (lots) and start to putty around the connecting area of the handle and the base.

Like this. Let that cure for a good day or atleast 4-6 hours.




3- Now that the JB weld has cured, the handle should feel pretty strudy and not likely budging at all. Now its time

for the dreaded Fake welds. I know some are going to Cring when they see my Fake welds but its my first crack at it.

Lets say I used a bit too much.

Lets start with what we will use for Fake Welds. I was told to use Plumbers Putty. So this is what I got.


Cut some of it off, and start to kneed it until the color is the same. It will start to stink like farts.


Start to place it around the base. Don’t use as much as I did or else the fake welds will look to thick or wide. (like mine)




Let that cure for at least a day. This stuff turns ROCK HARD and is not going anywhere after it sets.

[Wiz-GB008]

Looks like it’s going to be a pretty solid thrower.

Great for beating back crazy people at a Con.

[mr0072003]

Part -5

1 - Lets work on the Gun ears now

First thing to do is to Drill a hole a in the on the part where one of the Banjo fittings will go. I used small

bit close but not bigger than the screw for the banjo fitting.

Next, I used a number 8 tap screw to give the Banjo screw something to grip on to.


Once your done tapping, go ahead and test fit your fitting.



Next drill some holes on the other gun ear. I suggest not to go to big here, unless you already have your

light kit and or buttons are in place. I wanted to wait, so I will not put this on until I have my

light kit. But here it is drilled anyway.


Now lets get your JB Weld mixed up and start to evenly put some on the the gun ear. Like so


Put and place on the thrower. (PLEASE NOTE THAT WHAT IS PICTURED IS THE TIP UPSIDE DOWN) This means, have your

pipe off and the the thrower pipe flipped. I did NOT do this becuase I am an idiot and actually glued it upside down.

Thank fully Joe and Don were looking out for me (I posted a pic on Facebook) and they called it out. Thank goodness

they did, (thats a nightmare I would rather not relive, but I got it done) or else I would have continued. And yes I was looking at refernce pics, but yet my twisted mind still did

it wrong. I am posting so you can see and nOT DO IT, but that its actually easier to glue upside, just make sure your gluing it

right side up, just working upside down if you go this route. (Im sure I lost a few here.)

Hold it like this for a good 5-8min and push down hard. Clean up any meass with your fingers as any extra seeps out.


I used the other ear peice to keep it in place and the Banjo Fitting as the brace. IM sure you can use anything (once it was dry enough that it

did not move.) Use Quick Set JB Weld.


Once it’s glued on it should look like this. (please note this is after I had to pry it off as it was upside down)

and you can see it looks a little messy. Trust me it took me a few days to get over this as the first placement,

although upside down, was clean. But it’s here nor there as it’s going to get painted anyway, still annoying though.


Also it was a little off too, but at this point not bad enough to go through the nightmare again, but maybe later I will

fix.

1.5 - UPDATE - Received my Clippard R-501 Valve today and replaced the REZIN version. (this is an alternative to the R-701)

They are not exact replicas, as the R-701 has a gold Stem to the KNobe and the knob on the 701 has a hole. So if you

are going for a Cannon look go for the R-701.


I decided to flip it though, as I like the valve diagram showing instead of the clippard logo.


Also had to drill the center hole on the thrower (skipped in the earlier steps) so that the Valve stem on the real clippar would fit through.

This means that you alsoe have to trim of a ridge that is on the stem of the valve. Here it’s NOT cut off but shown

so you can see what I am talking about.


Here is the valve from the back as it’s passed through the thrower.


2 - Next was the Acrylic tube and trigger tip. The Tube I got from ebay and the Trigger tip was my first Nick-o-Tron purchase and I love it.

Fast shipping and great product… I orderd more stuff from him the next day.

I first noticed that the trigger tip was not going in the Barrel as it was too tight. So I got some sand paper and began to sand

the inside of the trigger tip. Did this and kept test fitting on the acrylic barrell until it went in nicely. Like so.


Lets whip out the 1/8 bit


and start drilling.


tap accordingly and fit your banjo fitting.



OK this is what the thrower should look like at this point


3 - Next lets work on Drilling our Brass Fittings to the trigger box cylinder.

First thing is to center where the fitting will go. I drew a cross across it and used that as reference. Then drill a hole for the fitting.


tap the hole with a number 10 tap driver


Screw in the brass fitting like so.. it should fit really nice and snug and not go anywhere.


Thats it.. Waiting for a trigger box from Nick-o-Tron and other parts and then I can attach the cylnder to.

Up next will be attaching Knobs to the thrower…

[nick-a-tron]

Looking good! I did cringe a bit seeing the ear upside down but you did a nice job of correcting it. I look forward to seeing more from you.

[doctor73]

very good so far i be keeping my eye on this build

[mr0072003]

Part 6

• Before we continue lets get a quick Run Down of parts we have used so far and where I got them. Big thanks to

AJ, Nick-a-tron, and Joe Lunna and Darth Dono.

**- Thrower Kit - 107-Studios (Joe Luna and Don)

• Bango Fittiings - GBSHOP

• Valve Fittings - GBSHOP

• Grips x2 -GBSHOP

• Trigger tip -Nick-a-Tron

• Acrylic Tube - Ebay

• Real Clippard R-501 - Ebay**

1. Let start with applying our Thrower knobs. PLease note that this part will only apply for those using a RESIN Kit for your knobs

not Aluminum ones. Maybe I will be able to afford them, but not now. I got my set from ebay and they came in silver already. I was happy

with what I got, but of course they are not the real thing. I knew there were a few options on how to put them on,

but I opted for the screw on method over glue, as I wanted the option to remove these and add real knobs if I feel

that is an upgrade I want for the future.

Here is the kit that I got.


So the first thing I started with was the knob on the top of the thrower body. So lets first start by

drilling a hole for the REAL hex bolt.


Once its drilled like this…


lets move to the thrower body. The 107 Studios thrower has a dimple already postioned for easy drilling.


Drill…


Then Tap…I forgot what I used but I believe it was a 4 if not a 6 tap.



OK here is when I learned that I should not drill through the entire resin part, with a bit that will pass the head through as well.

What I needed to do was just drill hole enough to screw in the hex bolt. Then I would drill enough of the top of the hole to

have the head fit nice and snug, while the bolt is still threaded through the resin piece. You can see in the pic below that the head

of the bolt does sit nicely IN the knob, giving it a nice flush look, but there is nothing for the knob to hold it

place. So I had to use SUPER adhesive (3M) and place it around the head, so that it would only adhear to the

resin knob and not to the base of the Body.


Sadly I do not have a pic of the bolt glued to the resin piece, but trust me it worked.

**2. ** Knowing what we know about drillng through the entire resin peices, I have opted to go with a screw on method for the front

knobe. Using a grinded down #8 Wood groumet and bolt I went to work.

Lets drill enough to get the post (Groumet) of the bolt through but not the head.




Glue the Groumet to the inside of the knobe and leave overnight to dry.

Now we can pass the bolt through the inside of the thrower and connect the knob by screwing into the groumet.

Here is pic of the inside of the thrower, the bolt mentioned is the one that is all the way to the right of the pic.


Now we can see what the the thrower looks like with both knobs just installed.You can see that I also added the hex

bolt that goes in between the other knobs. (not yet placed in this pic). The body already has that hole dimpled for

easy drilling.


**3. **Next lets work on the 2 Side knobes that are double stacked.

Here they are laid out. I found a set of bolts that fit nice. 10 x24 x’1


You can see the head fits PERFECTLY over the resin filled one.


So I whiped out the drill and drill bit (Size 9/32) and started drilling


Once I was done it looked like this.


Now remember that hole part of not drilling through the resin part with a bit big enough to pass the head.

Well now that we safely DID not drill the whole thing, we can use our Dremel with small grinding/cutting bit

to drill just enough of the whole and just deep enough for the Head but not all the way through…


LIke so. (its hard to tell, but you can see that there is still resin left at teh bottom for the screw to

have something screw on to.)


Now drill and tap a hole small enough for the bolt to screw into (repeat last two steps to the other knob)


Screw your number 10 bolts in. They should screw in and be held in place.


If you drilled your holes with the dremel correctly, when you screw the bolt all the way through,

it will sit nice and flush inside of the knob. And its a real Bolt not a resin one with a bubble in the middle.




Your 107-Studios Kit will come with dimples positoned for these knobs. But NOTE that these are for the Knob

that is below the stacked one.(meaning you need the 2 peice set) And since these are resin parts and 1 piece, we cant drill for that hole. So we have to drill

to the side of those holes. So all you have to do is to just position your knobes and mark where you need to drill your holes.

Here are the holes for the real 2 peice ones already drilled.


You can see where I made my marks vs where the holes for the real knobs are.I used a silver paint pen.


Here is a pic of the hole actaully drilled. You can see I already fit one knobe on, but get

the idea of what I did.


Now that both knobs are screwed through, I opted to use nuts on the inside of the thrower to hold them in place

for more security. This is a FG body, so I do not want to risk the threads to flake off over time.

Here you can see how I screwed them on, on the inside. The metal rail is in the way, but better than nothing.


Here are both knobs screwed into place.


4. - Let work on the 2 other knobs on the other side of the thrower. We will repeat the same process as the last one.

Here is 1 knob with the bolt already passing through.


The smaller one… but notice that I have not yet drilled the top of the knob with the dremel to

make the hole big enough and just enough for the head to fit snug while still being screwed to the resin

knob.


Once we do our trick… they should fit nice and snug like so.You can see that I the knob is going over. Thats becuase I did not screw the Heat Synce close enough to the edge

on the other side. Nothing that totally bothers me, so I am moving on.


I also opted to screw bolts on the inside of these knobs as well.


Well thats it for now. I am still waiting on my parts from Nick-a-tron, my hope is next week. For now your thrower

should look something like this.






[dred]

Is the wookie keeping you on task?

[mr0072003]

@dred

Is the wookie keeping you on task?

He will Rip an Arm off If I am not.

My Son picked that out for winning an Award for being a good kid on the Playground. Had no idea that of all the toys, on his own, picked the only Star Wars thing on the table. (he is 5). What a lucky dad I am.

[mr0072003]

Part 7 -

1. Wanted to cover something I totally did not talk about. How to install the Acrylic tube to the thrower tube. What I did not realize (cuz I am n00b) was that on most kits you will need a thrower tip converter and collar. Well with this kit you do not need one, nore do you need the collar. Its already there, you may need to add a little cloth to make it totally tight, but I don’t and its fine for now.




2. Next install your Barrel Trigger… I have created a How To for this here.

How to - Make your own Barrel Trigger

3. Now that, that is done, I went ahead and attached my Trigger box to the Trigger bar. I used a Chicago bolt to do this. Not sure how it will effect my wiring for the lighting kit, but if your not doing lights you should be fine.



With your Trigger box mounted to the trigger bar, now you can add your rear Cylinder to the trigger bar. I just epoxyed it to the bottom of the Trigger bar base.



Now set it and once its set, add your red Slo Blo light (came with the kit). your going to need to drill the hole for it. Nicks box already has a dimple to where you need to drill, so there is no guessing (Thanks Nick A Tron) . You will need to do the same for the hose barb too



and the Clippard Hose (sold sepratly). (Green)



4. I used a Nick A Tron Trigger box set up, so I had to hack off the resin bolt heads and drill real bolts through.


Drill holes throw your base for them to go through


Then pass the bolts through and bolt on. Sorry guys but I do not have a good pic of that right now, this is the best I have of it. You will need to secure them with nuts on the inside part of the thrower.



PLEASE EXCUSE the Phillips head bolt here, it was just a temp one as I did not have a long enough ehx bolt at the time of this part in the build. I later corrected it.


5 Now that the Trigger base is intalled, the trigger box keeps moving down ,as the bolt that holds it in place to teh Tirgger base is not secure enought to lock in place. This is good, as it allows us to move it as we see fit. Once you have figured out where you want it to set..



we can set it in place like this

First drill a hole small enough for a 4-40 x 3/4 can pass through like so:


Make sure you go through the other side of the trigger box and through the thrower base


Pass your bolt through and tighten with an Allen wrench


Do not tighten all the way, or you will break the box, just enought so it feels secure.



Thats if for tonight.. The gun is almost done, but I wanted to take my time and post all of the build, its just taking foreever to write…

[mr0072003]

Part 8

Installing Hat Lights. I got these from AJ here on the GB Fans Shop page.


First lets start with the light closest to the front of the THrower base



The Front knob will be in the way, so unscrew it out of the way


At this point it would be good to have a threading tool, I did not and my fingers suffered.


But I was able to screw it in. Taking it off for paint will be another story.



Now the Barrel Base with Orange Hat light.

Same thing, Drill, but this time tap. I used the biggest tap I have which was like 5/16 or somthing, it helped.



Then the Hat light for the middle of the base. This part was a bit tricky as the correct way to have this done, was to have the hat light come from the inside and not just screw in. With this kit, being nice and thick and steardy, the light would not pertrude out all the way.


So I went drastic mode and hacked my new 8 dollar light. :sigh: . To me this was better than ruining the integrity of the thrower.





IN the pic above you can see that there is still a bit of lip at the bottom of the light. This will help wedge it in place, but I will hot glue this in place after paint. I used a drill bit to push it out as far as I needed too.


Now it looks like the wand in GB2.


I added the Dixie hook set up to my gun and Pack, but there are no pics of that right now. I will get them up on the next post. At this point I am just waiting for my Light and sound kit to get here from Crix, and I will add the the last peice with the orange hat light to the barrel of the gun. I was going to wait to get the light kit but it looks like I may have to move foward with adding it, and deal with the light kit once it gets here.

[dred]

Very cool, man. Hope you get your stuff in time.

[Jonobiwan]

Looking good man!!! Building my pack and gun at the moment so know how excited you must be to get it all done!!

[dan20lancer]

Wow great built

[mr0072003]

OK Guys I spent the last few days slowly painting and peiceing the thrower back together. I sadly did not take pics of the Gun Track set up or V-Hook set up, but when I upgrade to metal parts, I will update the missed sections. For now I was able to glue the last gun ear on, and get everything painted and back together.



All in All I LOVE MY THROWER, its the PERFECT combo of Hero but practicallity in weight savings being a steardy Fiber Glass Shell, but aluminim pipes with already to go barrel twist. WIN!!!. My next kit will have the same thrower, that how much of a FAN I am. Enjoy guys and gals

[quietontheset]

That came out really nice, great work.

[nick-a-tron]

Oh thats beautiful!