6" round for $10 at Walmart? You kidding? The cheapest 6" speakers I found there, or anywhere were $40!
A few inches shy of 5’. Of the 6 feet that I got from GBfans, 14" went to the vacuum pump/gear box, the rest went to the thrower. I followed Paranorman’s plans. It worked out and wears pretty well, other than I had to clip and extend the power and switch lines from the wand light kit too.
So I’m crossing my fingers I just bought a bad cable and a solution exists without shortening the hose.
Oh yeah, Walmart is the way to go, as much as I hate shopping there. Durabrand 6" x 9" polypropylene dual-cone speaker. $10. In the automotive section. 
Jus thow much did you have to lengthen that power cable? I really don’t want to have to splice cable on my light kit just to run the power switch. Did you mount the electronics in the pack right next to the hole where the hose comes in? Or did the length of the power cell light cable prevent that?
Haven’t received the kit yet but I thought I’d get a preempt in.
Since I have precious little space left on the (outside) back of my motherboard and the thing is getting really heavy now, I’d like to run the sound board and the pack (or wand) off the same 12v battery pack. (I have placed the batteries on the outside for ease of changing.)
What’s the easiest way to do this? (I can probably work it out but I don’t want to risk any damage)
Okay, that was the only sound I wasn’t sure I was getting out of mine.
All the rest worked a treat, but I couldn’t tell if I was getting the idle hum. I was using a shoddy speaker with an impedance a bit smaller than I would have liked and it was picking up feedback from my benchtop DC supply I was using to power the sound board. So I was hearing that hum and not the idle hum I was thinking I should be hearing.
I’ve got some really nice 8 ohm car speakers, I just couldn’t find something I wanted to sacrifice for the phono plug last night. I ended up testing with half of a set of crappy Sony computer speakers.
- TGM
Flynn, what kind of a switch do you recomend for the extra 4 sounds…
I did a quick radio shack.com search and came up with these…
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=&kw=push%20switch&origkw=push%20switch&sr=1
Do any of these work?
Thanks,
-Trey 
FYI the cable I provided is 6 feet, as when I asked around most peoples through tube was 3-4 feet this left 2 feet that pretty much can get anywhere in the pack, a 5 foot thrower hose is pretty long compared to most…
Standard phone cable are a little different then the ones I make, the standard ones reverse one of the plugs… Not a good idea to use and over the counter one on my kit, you might actually be shorting something out…
Two things you can do wait and I could provide a longer one, or get the little modular end tool and replace the plug on the store purchased one… They sell little modular plug kits at most hardware stores… They look like the image below and in many cases come with a few plugs…
If you set out to make your own cable
You need to make sure you get 6/6 plugs, that is 6 conductor many times phones only use 2 or 4 you need all 6..
Wire colors might change between brands of wires, sometimes they flip them in the wire so don’t pay 100% attention to the wire color but more attention to how the plug is put on the wire…
So when putting on the ends leave one of the factor ends on, now look at the holding tab on the plug and look at the cable, one side of the cable is flat while the other side has a raised line down it… Notice the orientation of the little tab on the plug to the line on the cable… Double check my cable but I believe on one end the tab on the plug is aligned with the flat side of the cable and on the other end of the cable it’s aligned with the smooth side of the cable… Then simply crimp on a new end in the right orientation by following the instructions in the modular jack kit…
Red to red black to black, just “y” the wires off the one pack to each kit… Do notice that the gun kit lacks a heat sink due to how tight it fits in the gun, and some people have had issue with using 12 volts it overheats the voltage regulator and shuts off… A scrap of aluminum, a washer or a heat sink screwed onto the voltage regulator should solve that problem if it exist…
Anything ‘momentary’ and they should be ‘normally open’
I would probably go with these…
McMaster-Carr sells some nice battery holders in aluminum and steel which clip and hold onto batteries quite well. However, like the man says to get a single 12V D cell holder you have limited options. What McMaster sells hold 4 cells tops. So you would need to use a couple in series for the 12V equivalent.
If any are curious just go to: http://www.mcmaster.com/ and search for ‘battery holder’.
But honestly your time might be better spent researching a suitable rechargeable battery pack.
- TGM
Yep, I agree at this point a rechargeable battery solution is probably in everyones best interest…
I will be exploring offering something after Halloween, the problem is I can’t really get any discounts on the batteries and like the speaker double shipping just raises the price, so I will probably point people in the right direction and probably make a wiring harness for hookup…
I will probably lean towards the 11.1 volt lipo packs they are using for RC helicopters/cars/planes a little under 12 volts so the amp might be just a little softer… The battery packs and chargers are cheap on Ebay, and if you spend a little money you can get one with a good amp hour rating, something you will want with the amplifier the cheap of cheap ones won’t last long with the amp running…
So if I get these (as mentioned earlier): Robot or human?
will I need anything extra to hook it up to a mono plug?
Sorry if it’s been covered I haven’t gotten much sleep this week\ building these things.
I can’t tell from the picture or the description but it should either have solder tabs or quick connect tabs on the back where you can connect the wires for your plug. So you should either just need to solder the leads to the tabs or get quick connects and crimp them onto the ends of your leads and then slide them over the tabs. But that should be all.
- TGM
As the greenmachine said, you will need to attach the wire to it, that speaker has spade connectors on it so you need to purchase some crimp on slide connectors or solder the wires to the speaker… As I have made note some kits didn’t ship wit the wire so you will also need to source that if it wasn’t included as I didn’t have time to get them shipped out before I left town… The wires will be shipped as soon as I get home…
So the speaker wire goes into the crimp connector easy (no soldering?) then the crimp connector goes into the mono plug?
Yes, just need something to crimp the wire connector, pliers work as well as specialized crimpers…
Do notice like I said some of the kits were not shipped with the wire, you will need to source one at Radio shack if time is an issue…
Soldering is alway the best option and you can pick up a cheap iron for about $5-$10 and two wires to a speaker shoud be easy enough even for a beginner…
Whew thanks guys.
See ya’s in a few days.
I think there is something seriously wrong with mine. When i turn it on it plays the firing sound. I replaced all the sounds one by one just to be sure it wasnt the sound files fault. The pack on switch does not play the pack on sound, but the gun on switch does…Also, when i have the sound kit plugged into my board only the one ledt on the bar graph on the bottom lights up…hmmm
IM going to play with it a bit more to see if i can get it to work…if any of you have suggestions let me know.
-g
Not sure what to say on the sound issue. Superficially it sounds like maybe the sound files are out of place or perhaps the switches are in the wrong position. But since the switches are color coded they are pretty tough to mess up.
The fact that the light bar only lights up the bottom LED would seem like a power issue to me. It almost sounds like a short or something since it is only happening with the sound board attached. Is the sound board plugged into the correct position on the gun kit daughter board(i.e. the middle)? It again is silk screen labeled on the board, but it doesn’t hurt to double check.
How are you powering both kits?
- TGM
Other then a battery pack fault which was nothing mine worked pretty good. I have a prob with the power down sound where it plays a short snippet of the firing sound and then the power down sound. I also am trying to replace the startup sound but as some others have had happen now have the sounds in the wrong order and have the firing sound as my startup sound.
For those who have the firing sound as your startup sound, do you have your cyclotron lights on first? Like in the video Flynn first turns on the pack lights before turning on the bargraph.
I should prob wait a few minutes between wanting to post incase I find stuff out so I can just write one post lol.
The sounds it appears, can just be uploaded to the card after formating in the order they are numbered. 1 first, 2 2nd, and so on. I left 5 off the card since it takes time to upload and I do not plan on using it anyways. Worked fine without it. But I still have my firing sound just before shut down.