E-Cig Venting Tutorial (N-Filter Vent Smoke/Light Effect)

My father (JimFin) and I figured out how to integrate e-cig technology into the N-Filter and Ghost Trap props that we have built and there has been interest on making a tutorial so that others can do the same. Please keep in mind that we don’t really have experience in making “tutorials” but will try our best to explain/show how it all works and what is needed to replicate it. We estimate cost for basic parts needed for a similar set up as shown is only about $50 and that once you have all the parts, it should be a fairly straight-forward process for adapting it into your own props. The trickiest part is the soldering the cartomizer, next would be splicing it to work with your existing sound board or setting up a manual trigger.

Here’s a pic of the items that we use:

Some more parts with a unit partially constructed:

Part/source list:

KANGER “T2” Type eGo 2.4ml CC (Coil Changeable) Clear Cartomizer / Clearomizer

http://www.carolinavapes.com/KANGER-T2-Type-eGo-24ml-CC-Coil-Changeable-Clear-Cartomizer-Clearomizer_p_178.html

3V Mini Oxygen Air Pump

(Alternative/Larger Air Pump) 6V Micro Oxygen Air Pump

Magic MGA5012HR-015 12V 0.14A 50mm x 15mm 6000 RPM 2-Pin Computer Fan X23

12V 13-LED Strobe Light

Hobbywing 3A 5V 6V MAX 5A UBEC Lowest RF Noise RC Switch

May use various Rechargeable Lipo 11.1V Battery Packs. (We used a 11.1v 3S1P 1000mAH 20C Lipo Battery W/ JST Male Connector for my pack)

.25" Rubber Vacuum Cap (will require hole drilled to force fit tubing inside)

(can be found at auto part stores) http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Miscellaneous-Repair-Parts/Vacuum-Cap/_/N-25v0

1/8 OD Nylon or Polyurethane Tubing

Standard positive and ground wires, wire connectors

Mueller Streamline 2 in. x 1-1/2 in. PVC Schedule 40 Pressure Spigot x Slip Bushing

(Home Depot: Serial #: 012871626753) http://www.homedepot.com/p/Mueller-Streamline-2-in-x-1-1-2-in-PVC-Schedule-40-Pressure-Spigot-x-Slip-Bushing-437-251HC/100191192?keyword=012871626753

Glycerin (First Aid Skin Protectant)

http://shop.riteaid.com/Rite-Aid-Glycerin-Skin-Protectant/dp/B004MOE592#.U3gf2PldVMg

Chauvet Fog Fluid

http://www.amazon.com/Chauvet-FJ-Q-Fog-Fluid-Quart/dp/B0002GUE1W?keywords=chauvet+fog+fluid&tag=gbfans-discourse-20

Here’s a brief concept plan of how it works for this particular set up:

The Kanger T2 clear cartomizer coil of an e-cig has the center contact high-temp soldered to a 6v batter, the ground contact is high-temp soldered to the side of the cartomizer. For the Ghost Trap, the rechargeable 6v battery is then regulated by a Vellman timing switch so that the heating coil does not burn out (it may not even be necessary as we have been using 6v or less to the coil constantly with out apparent burn out). For my Proton Pack, the Mighty Micro-Controller sound board coding itself controls the duration/timing for the e-cig to be on and the 12v power supply is brought down to 6v with the UBEC switch; this is what prevents burn out for the pack set up. There is a 12v 2" 50mm fan installed in a short PVC bushing pipe that mounts perfectly into the N-Filter of the pack that produces airflow to push the vapor through N-Filter holes. A hole is drilled into the side of the PVC bushing that allows the cartomizer to be directly mounted so that the vapor can be injected; alternatively, a hose from the can be funneled from the end of the cartomizer and into the bushing hole if desired. A 12v LED strobe light is wired in parallel with the 12v fan, both of which are connected to a relay board that works off a “vent” signal from the sound board itself or when the vent toggle is triggered (GBFas Sound Board connected toggle switch). The cartomizer has a .25" rubber vacuum cap (found at Auto stores) that is attached to same center contact end that was soldered. Small 1/8 OD tubing is connected to the end vacuum cap and going to a 6v air pump (for fish tanks/medical devices, ect) that pushes air through the cartomizer. The air pump is attached in line to 6v UBEC switching regulator that is connected to the 12v Battery supply of the Proton Pack. The cartomizer uses a mix of 50% poly-glycol (“fog juice” or you can use plain water instead) and 50% food-grade glycerin (available at local pharmacies).

Results:

“Smoke” on demand that is safe, non-hazardous and can be used over and over again. This set up takes up very little space and requires only an occasional refill.

Notes:

Our set up bypasses the internal regulating circuit of a normal e-cig battery and we have found that it is capable of producing more vapor and for a duration of up to 10 seconds or more…it’s difficult to tell the actual limitations due to the airflow. The UBEC switching regulator is only needed to allow the 12v Fan and 12v LED Strobe lights to be added to the set up if desired, otherwise using a 6v power supply will be sufficient. Keep in mind that airflow needs to be generated to push the vapor out and the strobe . The PVC bushing should fit into most hollowed-out N-Filters and can be secured in place by wrapping the bushing with tape; different pack shells may require some modification to install or use of a smaller diameter bushing. We also found that the cartomizer produces more vapor when it is mounted with the end pointed downward or at an angle.

Additional Pics that we will refer to in further comments to this tutorial…

Cartomizer (Note that soldering to the center contact and that there, one of the existing holes is drilled out a little larger and a trench made):

1/8 tubing attached to the vacuum cap:

PVC Bushing with fan and strobe attached:

Updated Configuration:

Strobe connected to battery pack:

All wired up and activated:

E-Cig Fluid Mix and Refill:

Video:

Video of internal mechanics and e-vent (without strobe)

Video of e-vent effect (with strobe)

Video of Internal components connected and switched on

Links in this post may be affiliate links. Purchases made through them help support this site at no additional cost to you.

Holy ■■■■! So happening on my next build

I’ve already posted this in the thread about my custom pack, but these guys did this in my custom as well with the GB Fans board.

I just got my hands back on it today and the video really doesn’t even to it or the other props justice. The effect is amazing.

If you watch this clip and change the word “driving” to “operating”…then Ferris Bueller describes this vent kit best.

Wow - can we use some tutorial drawings?

I am highly interested in using this in my hero as an extra effect… but need more drawings as I can’t figure out how I would trigger this in a standard full GBFans pack set up…unless the wire was run to the main soundboard on PU4 (left hand side)?

I REALLY wanna do this lol

Thanks for the suggestion; we’ll work on a wiring diagram and upload it soon. It will show how to trigger the effect using the GBFans sound board as well as installing a kill-switch and a charging port for the 12v battery.

Both the kill-switch and charging port are installed on my XLR plate.

If I attempt this I’m going to try to do a game pack style vent, I already have a way in mind.

Also, I saw the glycerine you use to make your fox fluid, I figure it’s glycerine and water, but in what amounts? If I can jsut make my own fog juice I can avoid going to a smoke shop to get it.

Thanks! Subscribed!

Yeah, this is awesome. Jack and I were seriously considering doing something similar in our Game Packs. . . good to see someone utilizing the same idea, showing us that it works!

So awesome! Thanks! Will be a while till I’m at the point that I can integrate this into mine, but I’m looking forward to it!

Wow great job! I’ve been looking at trying to figure out a similar idea. Really well done!

Wow, just… wow. The timing of the fog burst with the lights is just perfect. When I finally get round to building my pack, I think this is something that has to be included! :slight_smile:

WOW, this is really sweet

This schematic may be subject to change after I receive the new version of the sound and light boards I just preordered

from gbfans

you might notice that the vent wires from the board are going to normally closed contacts on the DPDT, the opposite of what I expected, this confused me until I read on the documentation page for the controller that the dip switches could reverse how the switch treated the signal;

By the time I figured this out I had already soldered and mounted the switch and didn’t feel like redoing it

The Mighty controller utilizes all the components except the DPDT switch and relay. In their place is a readily available Arduino compatible switch relay “brick” that utilizes port 16 digital output to control the 12V to the rest of the components.

If anyone is interested I can do another schematic for this set up

The glycerin is available at any pharmacy, the bottle says it is for skin care but the pharmacist said it is the same as the the food grade glycerol recommended on ecig forums for making your on juice. It’ really thick thus requiring 50/50 mix with water or poly-glycol another form of glycerin made for DJ fog machines which is what I’m using in my mix

BTW if anyone is wondering why I used a separate small battery, I tried at least on Chace’s pack to run the circuit off of the main 12Vbut I think the amperage along with all the lights and sound was a bit much causing the 12V strobe to not light up. I have not experimented

on my son’s pack if it could possibly use one of the main batteries. It has two 9800mAh blue bricks plus the small 1000mAh Li-ion

Thank you for the schematic. This is extremely valuable.

Half and half ,simple enough.

Exceptional post, thanks very much for sharing! I’ve got to do this at some point.

Curious, is the cartotank easy to access or to you have to remove the shell to refill it?

the one in our pack is inside the shell next to the nfilter, look back near the beginning of this thread. I suppose a small project box, similar to the power adapter box seen in reference photos near the bottom of the alice frame, could be attached to the back of the motherboard and a suitable size airline routed through to the nfilter fan/strobe PVC adapter.

For us it only takes a minute to take the shell off, so I never thought to do it a different way

On Chase Ambrose’s hybrid pack there was no Nfilter so I built one from scratch and the cartomizer is easily accessible from outside of the pack

BTW we went through 2 parades and 2 days of a comiccon and still had over half of the 2.5ml tank full of liquid, we did put a charging port and switch outside on the switchcraft plate since the battery will need recharging long before the juice will run out.

even larger cartomizer tanks are available than 2.5ml, but I haven’t tried one out yet